First shooting with model 34-1 and questions

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Yesterday I shoot for the first time with my S&W 34-1.
Year of production accoring S&W: 1971-1973
One hand shoot distance 25m: I'm not ashamed since I'm not fine shooter: 5 over 6 in the target, and very dispersed :D
I asked my friends who were at the range to try.
They usually do better than me.
Results under I expeted :mad:
Was the gun the cause?
Finally I tried shooting 2 hands with support.
Very best results: 6/6 in the black. See attached picture.
Phew! the gun was not the cause.
When you discover a new gun, a lot of surprise can occure.
About precision of this S&W 34-1: good surprise. The bad results were due to the shooters.
But one surpise rather bad: it's impossible to eject the case normally with the hand ejector. It needs to be hit to do the job...
When unloaded, it works perfectly.
During this trials we used two kinds of cartridges:
Winchester Super-X copper plated 40 gr high velocity
Aguila 22 LR super Extra copper hollow point
No difference, same problem.
Any idea of the cause and solution?
This revolver must not have shoot a lot of cartridges.
Sould it be the reason?
The cylnder chambers were clean.
Thanks for help.
 

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Many, but not all, S&W .22 revolvers will have difficult extraction. The reason is that the cylinder bores are often too tight. Polishing or mild reaming will usually solve the problem.

This seems to be the case, whether the revolver is a K, I or J frame. Yours is a J frame.
 
You will find the smaller and lighter weight handguns are a little more difficult to shoot. Aw we are all used to the K Frame and N Frame weight balancing the gun and enabling us to hold it steadier. The J Frame is considerably lighter and more difficult to hold steady. Practice and it will improve.


Cases sticking in any S&W .22 revolver isn't unusual. They have tighter chambers and routinely cause fired cases to "stick". There are various solutions, but the ultimate solution is to have the chambers reamed with a Manson finishing reamer. This will cut the chambers to toe SAAMI standard, and will easily be extracted. A reamer can be purchased or rented, and there are numerous discussion articles on the forum about this. Read them and follow instructions.
 
I'm personally unable to polish or ream the chambers cleanly, and in France less and less gunsmiths are able to do. Many of them are only sellers, knowing the law and its contraints, not the weapons and their technology.

One of my friends told me to use Eley Sport Cartridges that are waxed.

What do you think of that?
 
The trigger of my 34-1 is rather nice in SA. As I don't shoot in DA It's not a problem for me. And in any case, grouping remains a dream in my case...

Trivia: What is now the Model 34 was introduced as the "Heavy Frame Target" revolver. It doesn't seem heavy now compared to a Model 17 but in those days it was considered a substantial gun.
 
Isn’t it a j-frame?
A very brief history:

c. 1911 - .22/32 Heavy Frame Target first produced. I frame, 6" barrel.

c. 1935 - .22/32 Kit Gun first produced. I frame, 4" barrel.

c. 1953 - postwar .22/32 Kit Gun introduced. I frame, 4" barrel.

c. 1958 - Model 34 added to Kit Gun name. I frame, 2" or 4" barrel.

c. 1960 - Model 34-1 Kit Gun switched to the J frame.
 
A very brief history:

c. 1911 - .22/32 Heavy Frame Target first produced. I frame, 6" barrel.

c. 1935 - .22/32 Kit Gun first produced. I frame, 4" barrel.

c. 1953 - postwar .22/32 Kit Gun introduced. I frame, 4" barrel.

c. 1958 - Model 34 added to Kit Gun name. I frame, 2" or 4" barrel.

c. 1960 - Model 34-1 Kit Gun switched to the J frame.

Mine, produced in 1971-1973 (info S&W) is a J frame.
 
I bought a 34-1 a few years ago and had the same sticking problem after a dozen shots or so. The .22 ammo is notorious for being dirty. I had an M17 and M18 the same and had the chambers reamed by local smith. For the 34-1 I bought the reamer and did it myself. Hour and half and done. I hope the waxy ammo works, if not, I suggest the chamber reamer. Directions can be found on U tube.
 
My modern 43c Jframe (2023) is my only .22LR revolver that ejects easily. My modern 617-6 Kframe is a little sticky, and both of my 63 no dash are very sticky.

My Charter Arms Pathfinder is very, very difficult to extract the spent cases. It makes a better paperweight than a range gun.
 
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