First Time Loading Cast Bullets in .45ACP Semi-Auto

[Engineer1911]

I cast 200 gr SWC with Lyman or Lee mold that makes a long nose bullet like the H&G #68. I load to OAL = 1.250" and taper crimp diameter right at the edge of the case mouth = 0.469" / 0..470" with a Lee Factory Carbide Crimp die.

The Lee FCCD holds the crimp diameter on mixed brass. The OAL varies ±0.005" (1.245" to 1.255"). The Lee bullets are tumbled lubed, and not sized. The Lyman bullets are lubed and sized to 0.452" in a Lyman 450 sizer. My ammo functions trouble free in 15 different 1911s. I cast bullets using range scrap mined from an outdoor range. I don't know (or care) what ingot hardness is.

 

[novalty]

I cast my own, and my 1911 likes 200gr. SWC just the same as every 1911 I've heard. I cast using mostly wheel weights, in a Mihec HG#68 clone mold. The only guns that I know that didn't feed these were two different Tanfoglio/EAA Witnesses, full-size steel and an Elite.


However these 200gr. RNFP also from a Mihec mold, have not had any issues in any gun they were fired from.

 

[rwsmith]

Did you have any problem...

My Glock 30 didn't like LSWCs at all, but LRNs run fine. fredj's suggestions are good.

Did you have any problem with the Glock's polygonal rifling? I've heard it's not recommended with lead bullets, but I doubt that anything is absolute.

 

[Forrest r]

Use just enough Taper crimp to remove the bell in the case and you should be good.

For some odd reason I keep reading these types of statements on multiple websites. I'm not singling anyone out (I just happen to be using your post 3five7), just putting this out there.

Why is it that every/all ammo mfg's use a taper crimp/crimp on all their 45acp ammo?

And

It's only the hand loader/ home reloads that say you only need neck tension/no crimp?

Commercial/professional ='s crimp
Private/ hobbyist ='s no crimp

 

[boatbum101]

45acp headspaces on the case mouth , hence the taper crimp . In a revolver you can roll crimp without issues . Ammo mfgers because of liability issues have to make ammo safe for any gun in that caliber .

 

[gm272gs]

Did you have any problem with the Glock's polygonal rifling? I've heard it's not recommended with lead bullets, but I doubt that anything is absolute.

I was just going to post that here. Not only is it not recommended, shooting lead reloads will void the warranty with any Glock model. They go on to say that:

"Lead bullets have varying degrees of hardness that can lead to fouling many different types of barrels in today modern firearms. As opposed to jacketed bullets, that are designed for a more consistent spin and trajectory due to the bullets interaction with the hammer forged polygonal and octagonal barrel rifling, lead bullets have a tendency to drag through the barrel before they ‘catch’ and start their spin motion in the barrel. This single action causes lead residue buildup in the barrel if not properly cared for. Over time, this buildup of residue can reduce the bullet to barrel fit and cause extreme pressure buildup that could cause a catastrophic failure if the barrel is not properly cleaned and cared for. Following the GLOCK recommended guidelines on ammunition usage and the recommended cleaning schedule is required."


With that said, any use of handloads (jacketed or otherwise) will void most warranties. I would use gas checks on the back of cast lead bullets, if I was dead-set on using them in a Glock. Gas checks act as a little "jacket" on the back, reducing the amount of lead that melts from the hot gasses going down the barrel. It's that melted lead (and subsequent buildup) that becomes the problem.

If people would just clean their barrels better, it wouldn't even BE a problem.

 

[Collo Rosso]

I have a Sig 1911 and a Glock 21 that will eat anything I feed them. My Ruger SR1911 would jam every now and then on 200gr. LSWC's. That 1/32" above the case mouth had to be just right or it'd jam. Would run 100% on RN's. I enjoy reloading but doing 2 different 45acp loads gets to be a PITA. Thanks to Extreme I now have a nice supply of plated 230gr. RN's.

 

[Groo01]

Groo here
I let the barrel set the bullet length at first, then make shorter as needed
to feed well.
Easy way to start, drop bullet into barrel and use a caliper to measure to base from the hood [ extension on top of barrel]
Measure the length of bullet ,add to first number, this is max length
of chamber [ with that bullet]
Load one [with out crimp] and see if it fits the mag .
If yes,. your done for the first batch, if not, make shorter till it fits.
This is the max length for your gun.
The length will very with bullet nose type.
These [except with swc bullets ] will fit your 25/625 revolver.
The chamber in your revolver may be shorter than the auto
and the edge of the swc will be more important.
Ps Try to crimp so that 1/2 the case mouth digs into the cast boolet to ensure the boolet
does not push back into the case on chambering. [ only done this for 30+years though so may not do anything]