First Trigger Pull Different than the rest?

[Catfighter]

I have been searching the forums for this and I can't seem to find if anyone else has this issue.

I have a 15-22 carbine (i.e. not the pistol), though I figure the triggers are the same.

When I insert a magazine and pull the charging handle, the first trigger pull/shot seems completely different than the rest of the shots out of the magazine. It feels like it's clunky, or requires slightly more force. All the rest of the trigger pulls, be they 5, 25, 35 shots -- are all the same.


Is this common and, if so, is there an easy way to fix it?

It's possible it's all in my head. . . I'm used to shooting large caliber guns with tons of recoil so maybe I'm just bracing for something that isn't there in the first shot.

 

[Kevin8503]

I've never noticed a difference. It could be a perceived thing. Maybe you're hesitating just a split second on the first one in anticipation of the shot and after the first, you're then in the rhythm.

Interested to see other answers.

 

[gm272gs]

There should be no difference. I cannot perceive any difference with mine. I think it's you.

 

[Catfighter]

It's probably me.

I don't shoot it a lot so I end up thinking too much about shooting it.


Thanks for the feedback.

 

[tomcatt51]

When I insert a magazine and pull the charging handle, the first trigger pull/shot seems completely different than the rest of the shots out of the magazine. It feels like it's clunky, or requires slightly more force. All the rest of the trigger pulls, be they 5, 25, 35 shots -- are all the same.


Is this common and, if so, is there an easy way to fix it?

It's really not unusual in semi-autos.

If you want the first pull to be like the rest you need to cycle the gun the first time the same way it cycles after the first trigger pull... with the trigger held back.

With an empty chamber and slide (or bolt) forward, insert magazine.
Pull the trigger and hold it back.
Rack the slide chambering a round.
Release the trigger.
You're good to go.

We used to be taught to do it this way but in our paranoid PC world it's no longer considered "proper".

 

[cyphertext]

Is it possible that after the first shot, you are only letting the trigger go forward to the point of reset, so that there is no take up when you fire the second shot?

 

[Catfighter]

Is it possible that after the first shot, you are only letting the trigger go forward to the point of reset, so that there is no take up when you fire the second shot?

That's possible, actually. But I'm not one to rapid-fire the gun. Ill try this out next time and see.

 

[Catfighter]

It's really not unusual in semi-autos.



With an empty chamber and slide (or bolt) forward, insert magazine.
Pull the trigger and hold it back.
Rack the slide chambering a round.
Release the trigger.
You're good to go.

I will try this, too unless I have to dry fire to do it.

Maybe once just to see if this has the same feel.


Thanks

 

[tomcatt51]

I will try this, too unless I have to dry fire to do it.

Dry firing, unless you devote your life to doing nothing but continuously dry firing your gun for the next few months, will not hurt anything.

 

[Catfighter]

I know, I know. I'm just paranoid!

 

[gm272gs]

Dry firing, unless you devote your life to doing nothing but continuously dry firing your gun for the next few months, will not hurt anything.

My Smith & Wesson M&P 15-22 manual says (like most rimfire rifles) to never dry-fire the rifle.

 

[tomcatt51]

My Smith & Wesson M&P 15-22 manual says (like most rimfire rifles) to never dry-fire the rifle.

So you've NEVER dry fired your rifle, right?

It also says to "NEVER do anything beyond what you are specifically instructed to do in this manual", and to "NEVER alter or modify the parts in your firearm".

You take that as gospel also, right?

 

[photoracer]

If people did not dryfire the heck out of their firearms the percentage of really good shooters in the country would go down by a significant number. I personally don't know a single competitive shooter, including me, that has not dryfired their guns to such an extent that they may likely have been dryfired more times than they have been actually fired. And that includes rimfires. They only put that in the manuals so they can say legally that if you screw it up it is not their fault. And all the shooters I know don't bother with snapcaps or drywall anchors either, me included.

 

[gm272gs]

So you've NEVER dry fired your rifle, right?

It also says to "NEVER do anything beyond what you are specifically instructed to do in this manual", and to "NEVER alter or modify the parts in your firearm".

You take that as gospel also, right?

No. I have never dry-fired my rifle, nor have I altered it in any way. I actually do take the instructions in firearms manuals as Gospel.

 

[tomcatt51]

I actually do take the instructions in firearms manuals as Gospel.

Oh my. I have a bridge you might be interested in...

 

[SmokeStack Lightning]

I always pop in a snap cap when possible.

In all my weapons, not just the 15/22. I have them for all my different calibers.

That's just me tho. It's all personal preference.

Use them or don't, don't make me no nevermind.

OP: After I started changing little things on my 15/22, I decided I was interested enough in buying a few tools to support my new hobby. One of the first thangs I sprung for was a 'Lyman Digital Trigger Pull Gauge".

I'm sure you'll find use for it cuz like me, you're probably gonna start changing some things after the bug gets holt of ya.

I've been doing some polishing on the TG for a lighter, smoother pull and that Lyman gauge is now indispensable to me.

 

[78Staff]

I ordered some 22LR snap caps last night, I've been meaning to for a couple weeks and kept putting it off - now that I have both the 15-22 and a Sig/GSG 22 1911 I figure I better get some. I always remember right after I pull the trigger lol.

 

[tomcatt51]

Just what we didn't need, another thread drifted into dry firing nonsense.

 

[photoracer]

Yeah always happens. Likely the same people that wash their cars 20 times a month also, pretending that their 1998 Chevy Cavalier Z24 is going to be worth something in 50 years.

 

[UncaGrunny]

With an empty chamber and slide (or bolt) forward, insert magazine.
Pull the trigger and hold it back.
Rack the slide chambering a round.
Release the trigger.
You're good to go.

We used to be taught to do it this way but in our paranoid PC world it's no longer considered "proper".

Who was it that used to teach this?

Surely nothing I was ever taught, or even heard anyone suggest as being a good idea before.

 

[tomcatt51]

Bill Wilson was (as far as I know) one of the last hold outs recommending this on his match guns. As I said it seems it's not PC to do this anymore.

There's a reason for holding the trigger back. When the trigger ISN'T held back the disconnector isn't in play and the hammer drops full force on the sear surfaces. Not good on match guns with lesser sear engagements but it applies across the board. 1911s have the extra "half cock" to catch the hammer when it bounces off the sear surfaces when the trigger isn't held back...

Back to the original question: "Why is the first pull different?" The trigger not being held back while the gun is cycled is why.

As to "Surely nothing I was ever taught, or even heard anyone suggest as being a good idea before." Well, now you've heard it...

 

[Majorlk]

My practice, no matter what the firearm ...

- Lock back the bolt or slide
- insert magazine
- release the bolt or slide using the bolt/slide stop

The first trigger pull is exactly like the second, and the third, and the fourth ...

 

[UncaGrunny]

Bill Wilson was (as far as I know) one of the last hold outs recommending this on his match guns. As I said it seems it's not PC to do this anymore.

There's a reason for holding the trigger back. When the trigger ISN'T held back the disconnector isn't in play and the hammer drops full force on the sear surfaces. Not good on match guns with lesser sear engagements but it applies across the board. 1911s have the extra "half cock" to catch the hammer when it bounces off the sear surfaces when the trigger isn't held back...

Back to the original question: "Why is the first pull different?" The trigger not being held back while the gun is cycled is why.

As to "Surely nothing I was ever taught, or even heard anyone suggest as being a good idea before." Well, now you've heard it...

Yep, now I have. Thanks for the details, because in all honesty I had never heard of that being recommended, going back some 40 years of casual involvement with arms.

 

[tomcatt51]

Thanks for the details, because in all honesty I had never heard of that being recommended...

Thinking about this it does go back quite a while. I hold the trigger back out of habit. I get some grief from RO's occaisionally doing it. I think we have better more durable parts than we did when this was recommended. Think pre-CNC frames etc.

It is important to do if you're doing trigger work on semi-autos. Can be misleading if you don't.

On some guns it makes no difference.
On some guns it clearly and measurably makes a difference.

 

[Catfighter]

Thanks again, everyone, for the help.