Fitting Model 10 Extractor Rod Locking Bolt

[Juniour]

I need to fit a new extractor rod locking bolt to a old Model 10 I have. Can anyone give Me the rundown on what to look for as far as fit? And what actually needs to be fitted? I have the new part and pin and old one is removed. This is a part it seems that is not talked about much and I'm guessing it's function may be more then what most might think?
Thanks,
Larry

 

[rockyrider]

Larry, if you mean the ejector rod, those just unscrew from the cylinder. Not sure if its a right, or left handed thread. I've used a leather strap on the tip with a pair of pliers over it.

 

[TAROMAN]

I replaced one and the only issue was making up a punch for that tiny pin.
All the fitting was done on the center pin and ejector rod.

 

[judge]

Sir, the front locking bolt does not require any fitting. Make sure the hole is clean when you take the old bolt out. Install new bolt and spring & pin in place. If there are any "hangups" opening & closing the cylinder, you will have to trim the ejector rod a few .001 to get it to function as needed. The center pin must be even with the end of the ejector rod when the thumbpiece is in the fwd position. Good luck - Judge

 

[Juniour]

What started this little project was the center rod was bent and the crane was out of alignment. I have the crane alignment tool and aligned the crane and then fit a new center rod and made it the correct length and check the extractor rod for straightness. All tis looks good. Someone had also filed the original extractor rod bolt very short and on the sides so I still had a lot of movement when the cylinder was locked up. With the New bolt in place with no fitting it locks up and functions real nice. I just want to be sure it actually shouldn't require fitting before I drive the pin in. When I ordered the bolt from S&W they warned Me it will need Fitted. I'm not so sure it needs fitted in My gun but Maybe some do and some don't??? Looks to Me if it touches the end of the center rod and holds the crane against the frame when cylinder is locked close. And opens and closes smoothly I should be good to go??
Larry

 

[dant]

yes, it should be slightly "tapered" , as well as rounded........coned?? for the lack of proper word.....look at one that's in another gun, and you will "see"............and make sure the 'edge' is 'broken" on the inside of the ejector....all of this fitting is hardly done anymore like it "used" to be.....
I've seen some "bolts" come "new", both ways, tapered or not....bottom line is if they tell you it "should be fitted" they mean it......

 

[Juniour]

OK,
I have put the New Extractor Rod Bolt in place wth the spring with a toothpick thru the retaining pin hole to hold it in place and it has enough movement to open and close just fine. And engages the Extractor Rod much deeper then the Old one. So I think I'm Good there.
This particular gun seems to have the barrel not screwed in for the front sight to be straight up. The front sight is angled off to the right slightly. I have heard of and have have other S&W's that are this way also. It is somewhat common on New S&W's. I think the real issue with that is it would also throw the center line of that Front Extractor Rod bolt off of the centerline of the Rear Bolt Hole.
I have looked closely at a couple Brand New S&W's and they appear to really be filed up. Around the perimeter of the taper of the bolt and the lenghth.
So what I wonder is are they trying to adjust the taper of the bolt to match the offset of the barrels???
So that the bolt is on the same centerline as the rear bolt hole and crane and does not try to move the front of the extractor rod when engaged?
And how to go about accomplishing this.
I think this is the real issue with installed barrels that have the sights off center.
Any insight on this??
Larry

 

[bgrafsr]

Here is a diagram from the Armorer's Manual showing how to fit a locking bolt.

 

[H Richard]

Bill, thank you very much, the old "one picture is worth a thousand words" is true. This is one part I have never had to replace on any of my S&W's.

 

[Juniour]

Bill,
Thanks,
The Picture shows just what I was thinking. Now i'm looking for an armors manual.
Thanks again,
Larry

 

[bgrafsr]

Bill, thank you very much, the old "one picture is worth a thousand words" is true. This is one part I have never had to replace on any of my S&W's.

Bill,
Thanks,
The Picture shows just what I was thinking. Now i'm looking for an armors manual.
Thanks again,
Larry

You are both welcome. I hope the diagram helps clarify things.

 

[postoak]

I thought I would add something here. I removed a K-frame locking bolt for bluing, and couldn't get the bolt to go back in. I could push it in with great pressure but the front part would stop at the front hole. After reading this thread, I measured the diameter of the bolt at front and rear and there was only 0.002" difference. After some head scratching, I decided that in getting the pin out I had created a burr on the inside of the locking bolt cylinder. I took some 1000 grit sandpaper and rolled it up small enough to get into the cylinder and spun it around by hand and forward and backward. This did the trick and I was able to get the bolt to go in freely. I replaced the cylinder to hold the bolt in the proper position and drove the pin in and all is well.

 

[WR Moore]

Just make sure that there's a slight flat on the nose of the locking bolt. This bridges the gap between center pin the and end of the ejector rod caused by the internal tapered cone in the end of the rod. It should be there from the factory, but not all parts are created equal.