Flat point backwards

Thomasino

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I have some Berry's 240 grain plated flat nose bullets that I would like to load backwards to make them similar to a wad cutter. Is that something that has been done before and is okay to do? These will be shot in my Smith & Wesson 629 44 Magnum revolver.
Ty

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It will work.....

Yes, it will work. Since it's a revolver I think I'd seat them partially out of the mouth. I'm not sure what a good place to crimp would be, not having seen the bullet, but I'm sure there's a good place. If there isn't a groove handy, lightly crimping on the body will work for light target loads. Heavy bullets will jump forward in a revolver. You can play with the resizing of the case to solve any problems of bullets pushing too far into the case if it comes up.
 
I have some Berry's 240 grain plated flat nose bullets that I would like to load backwards to make them similar to a wad cutter. Is that something that has been done before and is okay to do? These will be shot in my Smith & Wesson 629 44 Magnum revolver.
Ty

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Just curious what you are hoping to gain by doing this? The biggest "advantage" to wad cutters (at least for paper punching) is that they cut a nice neat hole. The flat nosed billets will too - just a little smaller hole.
 
(1) Yes, you can do it.

(2) No, you really shouldn't.

If you really want some .44 Magnum wadcutters (and yes, I do too) check out Rim Rock Bullets.

.44 200 gr. DEWC-FB per 500 "Anti-Personel"

If you're just ordering a box, find some guys to split up the purchase with. Break $100, and shipping is free. I'd also point out that they have an excellent deal on .38 wadcutters.

If you need a plated wadcutter, grab a LSWC. If the shoulder is sharp, they'll cut a nice clean hole in...well, pretty much anything in .44. But especially paper.
 
What velocity are you trying to get???

Exactly what are you planning on using these for? There are probably about a dozen alternatives that may do a better job. Does hardness matter? Coated, plated, lube in groove? A dead soft bullet will work for target, a coated bullet or hard cast can be pushed like a jacketed bullet. Ordinary plated is only good for around 1200 fps.
 
(1) Yes, you can do it.

(2) No, you really shouldn't.

I am wondering why the reason is I shouldn't? Is there a danger?

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The real "question" is WHY?

It serves no purpose. The Flat Point will make a nice clean hole. Just load and shoot them the way they are designed and then buy some regular wadcutters

A real engineer and ballistic nut would then have to determine the extra inside case volume and recalculate the new powder charge.:)
 
second the Rim Rock .44 wad cutters. Load then to around 800 fps and should have no leading problems. I load 4.5 grains BE on the 200 grain wc, great 25 yard target load.
 
It's OK to do.

You got your answer in the first reply.
You'll have to sort out how/where to crimp them.

Let us know how it works.
 
Me personally I wouldn't do it. I'd just load them normally, seat them to the correct depth, but load them lite.

Say; TiteGroup for example, use 4.8 grains and COAL of 1.610". should give you a velocity of 700fps.
 
the reasons you should NOT do it.....


it's not very accurate...ugly pushed thru holes in the right spot trumps clean holes all over the map.

there is a ratio of air-to-powder in the case, whatever the caliber the cartridge is ....if there is too much powder and too little air for it to burn in, you can get a catastrophic pressure spike... resulting
in a ruined gun not to mention loss of fingers, sight or life.

also not enough powder and too much air in the case can do the same... *example*= H110 powder does NOT like reduced loads
AT ALL!

having the ogive of the bullet inside the cartridge case makes the determination of that air space/powder ratio difficult to compute.

if you want to shoot wadcutters ....by all means BUY wadcutters....they make the holes you want, and will be as accurate as you can shoot.

this is NOT the sport to cut corners in.especially when it comes down to risking your life...and the lives of whoever might be to the left or right of you at a range.

bottom line ....do it by the book and be safe.
 
I've used these exact bullet and they work fine I crimp the entire
Bullet inside the case as you would a 38 for a model 52.
And they cut nice clean holes
 
I've used these exact bullet and they work fine I crimp the entire
Bullet inside the case as you would a 38 for a model 52.
And they cut nice clean holes
And use a slower powder with about the same burn rate as Unique as it builds up more pressure seated flush--and a magnum case to prevent powder fowling. It won't be as accurate but they make pretty holes you can see on orange or white targets. Just make them flush and roll crimp.
 
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You can do it, but you loose the flat base that helps with accuracy.
Turned around the TC now becomes a huge bevel base. Not dangerous to do just not going to be as accurate as a flat based wadcutter .
Actually the truncated cone bullet , loaded normally in revolvers , seems to be very accurate...at least in my 357 magnum Ruger Blackhawk.

Been done before ? You bet...we played with loading all manner of projectiles backwards back in the 1960's and I'm sure it was done by others way before that. Not much to gain by it now, you can purchase or cast full wadcutters in 44 cal. NOE has several moulds for 38, 44 and 45 wadcutters.
Gary
 
Lots of speculation, hyperbole and flat-out misinformation in this thread.

There is no such things as "too much powder with too little air for it to burn."

Compressed loads... as in virtually zero "air space"....are very common in rifle loads and even in magnum pistol loads with WW296 and H4227.
Gunpowder doesn't need "air" as an oxygen source ... the oxygen necessary for combustion is chemically bound in the powder.

"Air space" in a cartridge is of interest only in so much as it relates to case volume. And for a given powder charge in a given case, reduced volume resulting from deeper seated bullets will often increase pressure, though not necessarily dangerously.
 
Have I tried it:yes(aprox 30 years ago)
Will I do it again:no
Why:not accurate and by a long shot(pun intended)
Maybe I haven't been patient enough and I should have tried a little more but after this experiment,I went out and bought me a WC mould(which turns out to be outstandingly accurate in all my 44s).
But if experimenting is your cup of tea,be my guest.
 
I tried it once using 158 grain LRN .38 Special bullets. They grouped OK as I remember, but it was simply an experiment for me. Nothing is unsafe about it so long as you use regular full wadcutter propellant loadings. I won't address the many opinions stated previously about how morally corrupt it is to do it.
 
(1) Yes, you can do it.

(2) No, you really shouldn't.

I am wondering why the reason is I shouldn't? Is there a danger?

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TL;DR -- You could avoid max loads and be safe, but you're wasting components. You can safely burn your powder in a pile, and toss your bullets and primers in a lake, but I wouldn't recommend it.

One, they're going to shoot very poorly. When when I say "poorly", what I mean is "I know people that could probably throw them more accurately". Take a look at...well, any bullet, and you'll find the center of gravity is no further forward than halfway (in the case of full wadcutters). In those CoG-in-the-middle wadcutters, we know that they can't be made accurate any further than about 50 yards, because they start tumbling. In your bullet-turned-backwards scenario, weight is way out in front, and they're going to start tumbling right away.

Two, they're not going to do what you think they're going to do. What do we use wadcutters and semiwads for, and how is a backwards bullet going to fail at this?

(1) Punching neat, accurate holes in paper--but this won't happen because the backwards bullet will likely keyhole, and it won't be as accurate as if it was pointed the right way.

(2) Transferring energy to bowling pins, tough animals, and dangerous people--but you're going to lose velocity and have poor accuracy and you already have a great bullet for doing this exact thing with: the roundnose flatpoint.

Some people (survivalist whackjobs and folks trapped behind the lines of no-hollowpoint states) suggested using reversed hollow-base wadcutters as an improvised hollowpoint many years ago. But accuracy sucked and terminal performance was worse, because as it turns out, a functional hollowpoint is slightly more complicated than just having a big empty nose on a bullet.

I am wanting to drill nice round holes in paper. I like plated because it doesn't lead up the barrel. These are the ones I am using :
.44 240 gr Flat Point - Berry's Manufacturing

Well, couple things. One is that you can shoot lead and not lead up a barrel. I think I've only had leading in one of the family guns, but I can't even rightly attribute it to handloaded ammo or lead bullets. A lot of my guns see nothing but lead, because I shoot outdoors and enjoy accuracy and I'm a huge cheapskate.

And that includes when I was starting out. Buy good bullets, don't ask them to do unreasonable things, and mostly you'll have no problems. Sometimes you get a weird gun that just doesn't cooperate, but thus far, I've been lucky with my various bores and throats.

But lead is pretty dirty, I'll admit that.

You might be interested in giving coated bullets a try. A nice 240-grain LSWC from Missouri:

Missouri Bullet Company

I've not run coated myself (see aforementioned frugality), but a lot of guys like the stuff. And I definitely enjoy MBC's 240-grain LSWC--the holes it makes are as neat as a hole punch.

I don't rage against plated--it's clean to handle, clean to shoot, and looks very pretty, while being a lot cheaper than jacketed if purchased smartly (although some small-caliber jacketed can get pretty close if you're willing to buy a couple thousand at a time). But it's not as accurate as lead--not a big deal if you're doing FAST drills at 7 yards, but pretty relevant to a .44 Magnum at 25.
 
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I shoot my 44 magnum/special mainly at 30 or 50 ft. I just loaded 200 rounds like this :
100 rds
44sp
240g fp plated berrys (normal seat)
5.5g w231
1.590" w/mild roll crimp
+
100 rds
44sp
240g fp plated berrys
(180* seat, flat side out)
5.5g w231
1.570" w/mild roll crimp
*
You will notice between the two loads that one bullet is seated like you would expect or normal, and the other is seated a hundred eighty degrees with the flat end outwards to make a wad cutter out of it. Also a slight difference is the .020" between the two. At the 30 or 50 foot range I didn't notice any issues with accuracy or keyholing, at all. The pseudo wad-cutters I'll call them drilled perfectly round holes in the target without one issue of keyholing, just perfect round holes. What was strange to me, was that the wadcutter load shot more consistent feeling then the Flat Point method in terms of energy? Maybe that was just my imagination but that's what it felt like to me. It actually seemed a little more consistent.

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This is one of those why??? Sure you can but why? A swc cuts just as clean a whole, more accurate.
 
"Some men see things as they are and say, why; I dream things that never were and say, why not."

Robert F. Kennedy
 
The appropriate answer to such a question is simply "Yes, you can." Period. Whether it works to the OP's expectation or not is up to him to decide.
and it did work for me well, better than I expected. I had purchased 1000 240g flat points several months ago and decided to try them 180* as a wadcutter, they punch such nice circles. Sure, genuine wadcutters would be preferred, but this is the next best thing. They shoot great.

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and it did work for me well, better than I expected. I had purchased 1000 240g flat points several months ago and decided to try them 180* as a wadcutter, they punch such nice circles. Sure, genuine wadcutters would be preferred, but this is the next best thing. They shoot great.

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Distance & accuracy std??
 
Distance & accuracy std??
I'm not sure how far everybody shoots, but the farthest I shoot is 50 ft. I see no need to shoot any further, and I don't compete in the process. With that being said I noticed no difference in accuracy with this method. Actually, these flat points are basically exaggerated boat tails.

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The issue you need to be careful with is case volume. Reducing the volume increases pressure.
 
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