Floating firing pin side-to-side play on model 10, enough to be concerned?

j9X19

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Hi all,


I have a model 10 from 1968, and I've been dry firing quite a bit (majority of which using snap caps). I understand that vertical play is designed, but the horizontal play seems a bit concerning, and I can't seem to find any real consensus on these forums as to how concerning the side-to side play is...some people say it's fine, others not. The revolver was heavily used and abused before it fell into my hands, but the action is still quite tight and functions properly in every respect.



The video shows me gently displaying the wiggle, and I believe the magnification of the camera lens tends to exaggerate the play somewhat, but it's still quite visible to the naked eye.


Should I be concerned? The firing pin still functions properly, making contact with the rubber of the snapcap. Maybe I should just keep an eye on it?


Floating firing pin Model 10 - YouTube
 
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Looks perfectly normal to me. Check the hammer nose bushing in the breechface for any abnormalities. If there is a problem with the hammer nose, it could cause peening around the hole in the bushing. The absence of damage indicates all is well.


Thanks for the reply! I'm quite new to revolvers in general, but how exactly might I check the hammer nose bushing? I'm not actually sure what this means
 
Just have a look at the breechface, just under the top strap. (Inside the cylinder "window" just below the rear sight) You'll see a small hole where the hammer nose or firing pin protrudes through the breech in order to impact the primer. This is what's called the hammer nose bushing....check the hole in the bushing with a magnifier if you have one. If there is no damage (peening) to the hole, then your hammer nose is fine.

Photo shows the location of the hammer nose bushing......



 
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Just have a look at the breechface, just under the top strap. (Inside the cylinder "window" just below the rear sight) You'll see a small hole where the hammer nose or firing pin protrudes through the breech in order to impact the primer. This is what's called the hammer nose bushing....check the hole in the bushing with a magnifier if you have one. If there is no damage (peening) to the hole, then your hammer nose is fine.

Photo shows the location of the hammer nose bushing......







Awesome, thanks so much for the lesson! I'll check this out and see what the condition is.
 
j9X19

Let's fix a bit of terminology confusion here.

It is clear from the discussion that your Model 10 does not have a floating firing pin. Floating pins are mounted in the frame, not on the hammer. S&W .22 rimfire revolvers have a floating firing pin, and always have (at least on hand ejectors). Centerfire revolvers did not, until the 1990s. The first Model 10 with a floating firing pin was the Model 10-11/12, introduced in 1997.
 
j9X19

Let's fix a bit of terminology confusion here.

It is clear from the discussion that your Model 10 does not have a floating firing pin. Floating pins are mounted in the frame, not on the hammer. S&W .22 rimfire revolvers have a floating firing pin, and always have (at least on hand ejectors). Centerfire revolvers did not, until the 1990s. The first Model 10 with a floating firing pin was the Model 10-11/12, introduced in 1997.




Ah I see, thanks for the clarification. Would the correct term simply be "hammer mounted" firing pin then?
 
Check the back side of the bushing. If the hammer nose is striking there, it could cause a failure down the line.




Attached are some pictures of what I the back side of the bushing (I think). What do you think? It seems like a groove has been worn need the top, but Im not sure how normal or abnormal this is.


The front side in the breechface looks fine, with no discernible peening.
 

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The easy way to tell if the hammer nose is in contact with the bushing is to open or remove the cylinder, hold the thumblatch to the rear, and dry fire, holding the trigger all the way back. With the other hand, try to wiggle the hammer nose where it sticks through the bushing. If it wiggles, or has play, no interference. If it doesn't move at all, the hammer nose is contacting the bushing.
 
The easy way to tell if the hammer nose is in contact with the bushing is to open or remove the cylinder, hold the thumblatch to the rear, and dry fire, holding the trigger all the way back. With the other hand, try to wiggle the hammer nose where it sticks through the bushing. If it wiggles, or has play, no interference. If it doesn't move at all, the hammer nose is contacting the bushing.





Thanks so much for this tip! I tried it and do have play, which really quells my fears :D
 
If any of my guns looked like yours, I..well, they all do, the S&W's with the hammer mounted firing pins anyway..

You're fine.
 
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