Hey guys, those of you that reload for 38 special, I have some questions. When you develop a load if you exclude the bullet and the powder choice what do you tweak to get improved accuracy?
For those that load 38 special
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TenTea
Member
bullet sizing
bullet lubrication (debatable)
powder charge
*I guess I didn't exclude the bullet and powder very well.
Mostly, operator headspace is the important factor.
bullet lubrication (debatable)
powder charge
*I guess I didn't exclude the bullet and powder very well.
Mostly, operator headspace is the important factor.
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Vulcan Bob
Member
For target grade ammo uniformity is the ticket. Use the same brand and lot of brass that has been trimmed to the same length to ensure uniform crimping. For light loads I use a taper crimp, for medium and heavy loads a "roll/profile" crimp varying from medium to heavy depending on load and bullet used. Then you may have to play with the crimp, lite to heavy to see what develops the best accuracy and the same with primer brands. And this will be a bit different from gun to gun just to add a bit more fun! It's always fun to see how well a particular revolver can shoot. Bullets are fun too, one that works very well for one revolver may not work as well in another. We are talking small differences here that most of us cannot fully utilize in off hand shooting. Good luck in your quest!
More practice shooting..................
OP
I know for a fact that I can shoot better than my current hand loads 
varmint243
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I shoot flat base bullets
IMO flat base and hollow base give the best results
Stay away from commercial hard cast bevel base bullets
Shooter and bullet base seem the most critical components to me with emphasis on the shooter
I have had good luck with 150gr SWC flat base
I am currently shooting 148gr WC flat base
I have to cast my own to get what I want
IMO flat base and hollow base give the best results
Stay away from commercial hard cast bevel base bullets
Shooter and bullet base seem the most critical components to me with emphasis on the shooter
I have had good luck with 150gr SWC flat base
I am currently shooting 148gr WC flat base
I have to cast my own to get what I want
"When you develop a load if you exclude the bullet and the powder choice......................"
Can't be done. ( ...and )
You have to stay with the bullet or the powder to develop a load.
Otherwise it is an apple and orange type of thing.
You can develop a bullet with powders or..........
test a powder with different bullets.
Can't be done. ( ...and )
You have to stay with the bullet or the powder to develop a load.
Otherwise it is an apple and orange type of thing.
You can develop a bullet with powders or..........
test a powder with different bullets.
OP
Sorry what I was trying to say is that I want to stick with my powder and bullet of choice.
Step one-slug your bore to determine the correct diameter bullet.
Excluding the bullet and powder leaves brass prep, possibly choice of primer, reloading dies, possibly a machine rest to eliminate shooter error.
If I were developing a new load, I would start with a couple hundred pieces of new starline brass and go from there.
Without the powder and bullet the field is too wide to really help any further.
Good shooting
Excluding the bullet and powder leaves brass prep, possibly choice of primer, reloading dies, possibly a machine rest to eliminate shooter error.
If I were developing a new load, I would start with a couple hundred pieces of new starline brass and go from there.
Without the powder and bullet the field is too wide to really help any further.
Good shooting
gwpercle
Member
Size of bullet and alloy hardness matters.
Crimping is a factor. Primers could factor in
What bullet , powder and primer are we talking about? A photo of you're loaded rounds might show something. Knowing all this, we could perhaps offer tips.
Gary
Crimping is a factor. Primers could factor in
What bullet , powder and primer are we talking about? A photo of you're loaded rounds might show something. Knowing all this, we could perhaps offer tips.
Gary
cmort666
Member
Excluding the bullet and powder doesn't leave much.
Quality of the case is important. A friend once gave me a couple of hundred "American Ammunition" .38 Special cases (headstamp "AMERC"). They were pure GARBAGE. The primer pockets were out of spec, many either too tight to allow seating a new one, or too big to hold it. I ended up crushing them all with pliars and throwing them away.
Primers matter, depending upon the gun and the load. When I load for my Giles .38 Special M1911, I use Federal match primers, at least when I can get them.
I seat differently for my Giles and for my Model 14. For the Giles, I seat 148gr. lead wadcutters to slightly below the case mouth and roll crime over the bullet. For the Model 14, I seat the bullet out enough to roll crimp into the crimp groove.
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OP
I am using PMC 38 special brass cases, 160gr RN bayou bullet (lead polymer coated), solo 1000 powder. I am getting great results with this powder and bullet manufacturer in my 9mm handgun.
I thought that I was having a bad day so I pulled out my old 8" Dan Wesson cheater gun I fired my load and factory loads back to back. Shooting just off hand I got a 2" with factory winchester loads and a 6" group with my handloads.
COL is 1.501" 3.5 grains of solo 1000, federal primers. I tried 3.6 grains and was getting flattened primers. Crimp? Doing enough to get the flare out, I pulled one of the bullets and there is a slight ring on the bullet from the brass. I am using dillon SDB for my loads if that matters.
I thought that I was having a bad day so I pulled out my old 8" Dan Wesson cheater gun I fired my load and factory loads back to back. Shooting just off hand I got a 2" with factory winchester loads and a 6" group with my handloads.
COL is 1.501" 3.5 grains of solo 1000, federal primers. I tried 3.6 grains and was getting flattened primers. Crimp? Doing enough to get the flare out, I pulled one of the bullets and there is a slight ring on the bullet from the brass. I am using dillon SDB for my loads if that matters.
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ironhead7544
Member
You will find that some loads will not work with some pistols. You didnt say if the factory loads were jacketed. If they were, you might have a bullet diameter problem. I would check the cylinder throats.
Amp
Member
Trim the cases and clean the junk out of the primer pocket.
Then its powder, bullet, oal and crimp.
Then its powder, bullet, oal and crimp.
Shield9 Pro
Member
Like someone else said alloy type is also a concern different alloys have different weights due to the density of the material any and all variants must be taken in to account if you are trying for the best possible accuracy. Personally I like unique or BE86 in the 38 that has given me some real good results
at_liberty
Member
Other than the brand of powder and the choice of bullets, how much of your powder per load is probably the most important. That assumes the gun throat diameters are compatible with the bullets. I guess there really are many assumptions necessary to answer such a question.
OK, .38 Special? Lead or jacketed bullets? If you're shooting lead in your .38 Special revolver, make sure the bullet fits the gun (oops! that's bullet related?). I don't put much into brass preparation; trimming, primer pocket cleaning, etc., but try for consistency. I try to make every cartridge/load exactly alike, which would include weighing bullets, weighing every charge, and even weighing cases (but my most accurate rounds didn't get that much attention). The only other think I would do is experiment with seating depth. Some guns will shoot better with bullets seated farther out, nearer the bbl./forcing cone.
Consider premium components. Consistency in bullet alloy, jacket alloy, diameter, weight may make a difference. Appropriate powder for the cartridge may also improve accuracy...
Consider premium components. Consistency in bullet alloy, jacket alloy, diameter, weight may make a difference. Appropriate powder for the cartridge may also improve accuracy...
OP
Used the caliper checked the chambers after cleaning them .355 to .356
