Frog Lube

[Gyrene6891]

The whole CLP thing came about as a result of the military switching from the M-14 to the M-16. Originally we used LSA which turned out to be too thick for the M-16 and caused many malfunctions. CLP was placed in use as a light weight lubricant for the tighter tolerances of the M-16. It was not designed for machine guns which require a much thicker lubricant like LSA.

 

[series guy]

Ballistol has been around a long time and does a fantastic job cleaning and protecting. Wouldn't use anything else.

 

[Llando88]

Frog Lube killed my guns

Last night I kissed my 4 oz bottle of Froglube, which after 4 months use still has about 3.5 oz remaining.



Dang if this morning it didn't turn into a bottle of CLP-4. WOW!

JUST KIDDING!

 

[ejhc11]

Like another poster said - try Slip 2000
I use the standard Slip 2000 on my guns for its non-attraction to dust/sand and water displacement. It works well for me from Sigs, to AR15s.

And, it mil-spec requirements, I dont know if Froglube does...

 

[Leonard]

I have used frog lube on the rails of my semi autos works very well may be slickest lube I have used. But I am careful not to put too much on too much of anything except money is not always a good thing.

 

[shawn mccarver]

For the life of me, I just do not understand what is so wrong with Hoppes No. 9 solvent and Break Free CLP. They are long proven, don't gum up actions, and these new "miracle" potions do not save any time or effort in the cleaning process.

I learned my lesson with WD-40 back in the 70s, when it had become a popular solution for LE armories who had begun using it as both a cleaner and a lubricant. The Missouri State Highway Patrol had an incident where a trooper, lucky to be alive, attempted to shoot a suspect and his Model 66 went "click" instead of "bang."

Test results showed the WD-40 had gummed up the action, thereby "cushioning" the fall of the hammer enough to prevent ignition of the primer. MSHP put an article in its little newsletter/journal instructing all personnel to cease use of WD-40. I went to check my revolvers, and sure enough - it took a considerable effort to clean out the gummed up mess.

I went back to ordinary Hoppes No. 9 and the old can of "real" gun oil (you remember when it came in those little rectangular cans with the little red swivel applicator on top and the can made that little clicking/slurping noise when you squeezed it, don't you?).

I was so alarmed by that experience that I waited 10 years after Break Free was adopted by the military before giving it a try, and only did it then after making sure there had been no complaints of gumming up the actions.

 

[Leonard]

For the life of me, I just do not understand what is so wrong with Hoppes No. 9 solvent and Break Free CLP. They are long proven, don't gum up actions, and these new "miracle" potions do not save any time or effort in the cleaning process.



No question sometimes the old ways were better but if we stick strictly with that logic we would still be using a bow and arrow!

 

[rcnixon]

What's the difference between a frog and a toad, and who cares, anyway?

Frogs is good eatin'. Toads, not so much.

Russ

 

[rcnixon]

Right now I'm using Slip 2000 EWL for oil to try it out. I'd like to try their grease in my M1s but my local purveyor can't get the grease. I guess I'll have to break down and order some from the Amazons. This is in lieu of Remoil, Hoppes or 10 weight non-detergent motor oils and wither white lithium grease or an ancient tube of Shell brand all-purpose grease (when I can find it here in the house. It seems to move and hide now and again).

Russ

 

[BobC357]

Been using Hoppes for over 40 years without any problems. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. No reason to change.

 

[ditto1958]

I use Ballistol, cuz its easy, smells nice, works good and makes guns look really good when you wipe them down with it.

I have noticed, however, that for stubborn baked on black stuff, Hoppe's seems to work noticeably better. That, and it smells really good.

 

[Kanewpadle]

Too much of ANY lube in the firing pin channel can cause light strikes.

 

[Mike SC Hunter]

For my entire youth my Dad & I only use 3 in 1 oil and WD40. Neither was "slathered" on the gun. My guns from that era are in just as nice condition as any one elses today..................IT AIN'T WHAT YOU USE......ITS HOW YOU USE IT!

 

[Watchdog]

What's the difference between a frog and a toad...

For one thing, toads pee on you, not to mention the fact that some toads exude a toxic substance through their skin onto anyone stupid enough to pick them up. My dogs hate them.

Plus, toads always look as if they're angry about something. Possibly because they don't have some miracle gun cleaning product named after them.

 

[Watchdog]

For my entire youth my Dad & I only use 3 in 1 oil and WD40.

I can't remember a time when I was growing up that there wasn't a can of 3 In 1 oil within easy reach. My dad used it on everything...guns, tools, you name it. If it needed lubricating, dad would break out the 3 In 1 oil. When dad passed away and it fell to me to clean out his tool shed, I found four or five cans of the stuff on the shelves. Some of the cans were actually starting to rust on the outside and the lettering on the cans was fading, but the oil was fine. I now wish I had kept them as reminders of bygone days.

 

[G.T. Smith]

Hoppes no. 9 and this..........

I use Hoppes no. 9 to clean everything and get my aroma therapy on. Then I sparingly use this oil for everything else. Never had a problem and this quart was only 6 or 7 bucks. I used to buy it in 4oz. size for a buck a can. Couldn't find it around so I bought one of these. Never had a problem with stickiness or corrosion.
Peace,
Gordon

 

[Aircrewman]

I believe that the trouble with some of the newer greases and lubricants have to do more with the viscosity types and the almost endless degrees of choice that buyers have now. To me, it is absolutely mind-numbing to have the choices of products available - for EVERYTHING! Cripes. Look at the grocery isles....just how many kinds of salsa/breakfast cereal/coffee, tea, MILK! We are inundated with choices and, I believe, it is just over-marketing nonsense.
In this case, in speaking of the kinds of viscosity, I was going to get some of the Brian Enos lube he has lent his name to. Then, I started to look at the lubes offered and was immediately confused because some of the lubes were for under a certain temperature and some for over a certain temperature etc, etc.... Jesus Jones! What??
I did not buy any.... Too confusing. I have enough things to decide upon. So, I just kept using a grease that I know works for most anything in the climates I move about in. Lubriplate for the Garand Rifle or "Hoppe's Gun Grease." it works, it doesn't run and it stays in place for the most part. If it's hot and I'm shooting and notice the gun barrel is dry or the slide rails, I add a little more grease.... That's it. The TW 25 grease seems to be a good one but I have stayed with the Hoppe's grease, CLP if it's on hand, or Lubriplate. Remember, the Lubriplate used for the Garand was developed form the Garand. It is a pretty good grease for anything that needs to be greased for serious purposes. The "designer" greases leave me feeling rather underwhelmed. Tey are expensive and in some places harder to find than Lubriplate, CLP, or Hoppe's gun grease.
I am not knocking anyone else's choices. I am just saying that some of the designer greases ARE expensive and seem, as we see in this thread, not all they are cracked up to be. I have tried some of the other powder solvents and they seem to work ok. However, at the end of the day, I'll stick with something that has been around for a while and works.... Hoppe's since ? 20's, 30's? Lubriplate since ? Early 42? Hoppe's Gun Grease, since? 30's, 40's? I'll use the money the designer greases cost to buy ammo, another factory magazine, etc.

 

[S&WForty]

For anyone that may have overlubed a firing pin/striker, what is the best way to clean the channel out?

I have some brand's aerosol action cleaner. Would spraying that into that area work? So far my Shield and Kimber love FL, but I rather be safe than sorry and flush that area if that is feasible.

 

[Maximumbob54]

Sorry, but if FL is locking anything up then you used too much. And if it's migrating to areas you didn't use it then you used way too much. And if you are seeing rust after using it then I don't know what you did but you are either the corrosive man or you did something wrong. I used to touch my stainless Colt 1991A1 and see it rust and nothing would stop the Florida humidity from getting into my safe. I switched to Eezox and that was great. But that was the nail in the coffin for her putting up with gun oil smell in the house. That's when I found FL. Now I get the same results with no problems but with a sort of tooth paste smell that she doesn't complain about all the time.

 

[Autococker07]

For anyone that may have overlubed a firing pin/striker, what is the best way to clean the channel out?

I have some brand's aerosol action cleaner. Would spraying that into that area work? So far my Shield and Kimber love FL, but I rather be safe than sorry and flush that area if that is feasible.

Striker channels are easiest to clean with Q-tips and your choice of cleaner (I like Hoppes #9 ymmv)

I am also a fan of frog lube, but most people tend to use it way too thick... this will cause problems....