Frog Lube

[jeffnles1]

How much oil you guys go through? A can lasts me years. Only a couple drops needed per firearm per cleaning. I just replaced a bottle of Hope's oil that had to be 5 years old. I bought a bottle of FP-10 and a bottle of Breakfree CLP. These will probably last me anothe 5 or 6 years.

Only time I ever had a firearm bind up was when I was 13 or 14 out rabbit hunting with my dad. I had cleaned the shotgun a couple days before all excited and preparing for the big hunt. I dumped a lot of oil in the action and down the barrel wanting to be sure I had it well protected in case of rain. (Dad would have been quite angry if I allowed my shotgun to rust).

Well, I learned an important lesson that day. Rabbit bounded out of the brush, dog chased it around a big circle, rabbit ran by me, pointed shotgun pulled trigger and click. Actually not even click more of a "squish". The temperature had dropped to the low 20's that day and all that oil had thickened up.

My dad smiled and said "too much oil" and we went on hunting. Well, he went on hunting, I became the second rabbit dog with my shotgun back in the trunk of dad's car.

Jeff

 

[Maximumbob54]

I'm suddenly reminded of the day I learned not to use so much oil.

POW!

(splatter)

Oh, I guess that was too much...

Since that day I no longer apply oil from the bottle to the gun. I apply oil to the brush/cloth/whatever and clean. Suddenly that oil started staying full for a lot more time. I still think it's funny to see people add a drop to the slide rails. That's ten times too much oil. Add a drop to a rag and wipe the rails. Done.

 

[iwanna]

Personally, I have a big tent when it comes to products. I'll try 'em all. Say, nobody mentioned G96.

 

[Krell1]

I don't know what it is but there's something about the smell of Hoppes that keeps me using it. Maybe it's addicting. I've always said if you find a good thing, stick with it. Hoppes has been around a long time and you gotta figure they know what they're doing.

 

[Watchdog]

What's the difference between a frog and a toad, and who cares, anyway?

Most differences are mainly anatomical. If fact, toads are actually frogs.

I think it's important that all S&W Forum members are aware of this, in order to remain more knowledgeable about the natural world we live in.

 

[usm1rifle]

I say frogs belong in a blender, makes a great breakfast drink!

 

[MSG Glenn]

I was all set to buy some Frog Lube, after all it's made by my brothers that swim underwater for a living but couldn't find any locally. I did some further research on the stuff & found some posts complaining about mold & mildew forming on it so I decided to stick with CLP or occasionally synthetic motor oil. In all of my searching I've never found that mold & mildew make a good lubricant or preservative.

 

[just plain joe]

I will try to stay in my lane here. You may wish to try the SLIP 2000 line of lubricants and cleaners. I've been using the EWL on my patrol rifle since 2008 as well as my Springfield Professional .45 duty pistol. I have had no malfunctions related to lubrication. I also use their Carbon Cutter to clean my weapons. I went from Breakfree CLP to SLIP 2000 and never looked back.

On other forums people have touted using Mobile 1, transmission fluid and similar oils for lubrication and brake cleaner to remove carbon, copper, grit, etc. They say the same thing I did in my first paragraph, i.e. it works for them.

I used petroleum based lubes and cleaners for nearly 40 years. I have gradually shifted away due to concern over carcinogens with long term use. Please look at the labels on canisters of oil, transmission fluid, and brake cleaner. There normally is a warning there about cancer. In law enforcement we call that a clue.

You may wish to look at SLIP 2000 products. Again, it works for me, your mileage may vary. As an aside, I have no connection with the company other than being very satisfied with the use of their products.

Remember, what I posted is not "THE" way, it is "A" way to clean and lube your firearms.

Hope this helps and good luck!

JPJ

 

[garbler]

Summer help kid spilled some Frog Lube on the leads of our big Vulcan pile driver the other day and now it's seized up --ain't rusty though

 

[kbm6893]

For the life of me, I just do not understand what is so wrong with Hoppes No. 9 solvent and Break Free CLP. They are long proven, don't gum up actions, and these new "miracle" potions do not save any time or effort in the cleaning process.

I learned my lesson with WD-40 back in the 70s, when it had become a popular solution for LE armories who had begun using it as both a cleaner and a lubricant. The Missouri State Highway Patrol had an incident where a trooper, lucky to be alive, attempted to shoot a suspect and his Model 66 went "click" instead of "bang."

Test results showed the WD-40 had gummed up the action, thereby "cushioning" the fall of the hammer enough to prevent ignition of the primer. MSHP put an article in its little newsletter/journal instructing all personnel to cease use of WD-40. I went to check my revolvers, and sure enough - it took a considerable effort to clean out the gummed up mess.

I went back to ordinary Hoppes No. 9 and the old can of "real" gun oil (you remember when it came in those little rectangular cans with the little red swivel applicator on top and the can made that little clicking/slurping noise when you squeezed it, don't you?).

I was so alarmed by that experience that I waited 10 years after Break Free was adopted by the military before giving it a try, and only did it then after making sure there had been no complaints of gumming up the actions.

Hoppes has always been my "go to" cleaner, but things are changing. For one thing, it is not safe on newer blued guns and I know for damn sure it will remove the clear coat on the 642. At least it did to mine.

It's also hazardous. Says right on the bottle. "Contains a product known to cause cancer". I can't clean guns with rubber gloves. Hand sweat immediately and I can't really thread a cleaning patch through the slot on the rod.

So I always end with a wet patch followed by dry through the barrel and chambers. Cause guns don't feel "clean" to me without smelling hoppes. But the majority of my cleaning is done with MPro 7 now.

 

[ma deuce]

I use slip2000 with great success.

So do I. Also Ballistol.

 

[one eye joe]

THANKS FOR THE HEADS UP, OP. I NEVER USED FROG LUBE, AND I NEVER WILL. THE NAME DOESN'T EVEN APPEAL TO ME…...

 

[edmeloy]

What part of the frog do they use to make this elixer anyway?

Might it be frog vagina grease?

 

[edmeloy]

Ballistol has been around a long time and does a fantastic job cleaning and protecting. Wouldn't use anything else.

Yeah and you can even tread wounds with.
Use it all the time.

 

[kilo charlie]

Ballistol is a great product for both cleaning and lubing...if you can get past the "stinky feet" smell.

 

[andyo5]

Had good luck with Breakfree CLP for years. I now use 10W-30 synthetic motor oil with all my guns, even my M16, and have had had good results with all of them. It is relatively cheap and available.
Please don't tell my car that I am using its oil.

 

[SMSgt]

Been using Froglube on my Glock 30 for a couple of years. If it's congealing, that's because you didn't wipe the excess off. Heat it, wipe FL on, and let it sit. THEN wipe off all the visible excess. If you;re getting it in the firing pin channel, don't blame FL for that!

It makes parts so slick I have to hold my recoil spring assembly in place. Kind of like the old STP & screwdriver commercial, too slick to hold. I also use it on my 6906 and haven't had a problem with it.

 

[Rustyt1953]

Why buy it when you can make your own?

 

[KeithR]

Been using Froglube on my Glock 30 for a couple of years. If it's congealing, that's because you didn't wipe the excess off. Heat it, wipe FL on, and let it sit. THEN wipe off all the visible excess. If you;re getting it in the firing pin channel, don't blame FL for that!

It makes parts so slick I have to hold my recoil spring assembly in place. Kind of like the old STP & screwdriver commercial, too slick to hold. I also use it on my 6906 and haven't had a problem with it.

I've read all the stories over the last couple of years of how FL has "ruined" many a fire arm. In reading, the one thing that stands out the most, is that it wasn't applied per the instructions. A quick look on youtube would help. A recent independent test over a number of months by a forum member(can't remember the forum at the moment) testing about 40 or so diferent products, came to the conclusion that FL rated at the top-provided that the instructions were followed. I've used FL for over a couple of years now on everything I shoot(223, 40, 9mm & 380 cal) and I have never had a problem. Living in MN exposes me to sub zero temps & never had I had any of my weapons not function. So the argument that it gums up in the cold or it sticks proves my point that it was operator and not product error that was at the root of the problem. Bottom line, if you didn't follow the application instructions don't blame the product.

 

[grandpasknives]

i have found that the main trick to frog lube is to use hair dryer to heat metal parts and then use sparringly when coll wipe off any excess.Moist people skip the heating part,there by getting too much grease.