FTE issue with new 15-22

Many, if not most, such problems can be traced to either bent bolt carrier rails or gross over lubrication.

There is no need for ANY lubrication on the bolt body itself since the bolt body does not have any bearing surface inside the upper. The only lubrication around the bolt body is a very small drop of CLP or similar on the extractor pivot pin and a couple of drops of CLP or similar on the bolt carrier rails. The old rule of "if you can see the lube, you've used too much" is never more true than with the 15-22.

I was thinking the same thing. There was an awful lot of lube on there from what I could see of the pictures. I put barely 1 drop of oil on my rails and run everything else just about dry.

Also, I never hear enough about keeping the bolt face clean. It's easy for gunk to build up where the back of the brass has to fit into the recess on the bolt face. If there's a build up there the bolt's extractor won't lock onto the lip on the brass and that can result in ejection problems. I always scrape out that area thoroughly with a pointed piece of wood. I nice sturdy round toothpick would work the same however.

I've only had 4-5 FTF's over 200 rounds (with crappy ammo, none with the Norma) and I've never had a fail to eject. I'm betting that keeping that bolt face clean, the ejector clean, and the light lube all part of that successful result.
 
Last edited:
I have a couple of metal dental picks for cleaning the nooks and crannies on the bolt face. Most dentists have a drawer full of old picks and they will generally give them away.
 
I have a couple of metal dental picks for cleaning the nooks and crannies on the bolt face. Most dentists have a drawer full of old picks and they will generally give them away.

I too have some picks but found out most of those hard to reach nooks & crannies only exist with the barrel on. Now, I simply remove the barrel and cleaning is much, much easier. I am of the school of thought that the bolt face and the corresponding parts on the chamber need to be very clean. I understand the gun still works well if dirty but I find that if this area is kept clean with no buildup, if the rails are lightly lubed, and if I use good ammo (CCI or Norma), then I get no failures at all.

I know folks will say it is not necessary to remove the barrel and I'm sure that is true. However, if you shoot a lot, next time you clean remove it and see what you have missed with your picks. I'm not sure that stuff impacts function but there is gunk in places only found with barrel removal. Plus, as I said, all the other spots are much easier to reach.
 
Sounds funny, but heat up your ammo if it is old or cheap stuff. I have had same issues and found that if warm up the old ammo to about 80 degrees it fires alot better. It works.

Aslo to avoid twisting the barrel in the upper when removing the flash hider, clamp the barrel, put your wrench on it and smack the wrench with a light hammer. Dont just push the wrench.

If the barrel is twisted in the upper it wont eject spent rounds correctly.
 
Aslo to avoid twisting the barrel in the upper when removing the flash hider, clamp the barrel, put your wrench on it and smack the wrench with a light hammer. Dont just push the wrench.

If the barrel is twisted in the upper it wont eject spent rounds correctly.

So true. In my case, my barrels were initially removed with a barrel vise but now have been removed numerous times & are torqued only hand tight. Only tool needed is my wrench from Tacticool.
 
Finally got my brand new 15-22 back from S&W one month to the day I sent it in..

The rifle is a bullet hose now.. or at least the 100 rounds i rapid-fired into the ground were. Excellent

I am not thrilled that S&W told me turn around would be two weeks to fix my brand new rifle, and then it ended up taking a month to get back.

I am also not happy that they said they'd send a chamber indicator for free (but didn't). They did not send a free magazine as some others have claimed as well. I'll survive

I asked to be notified of what the issue was so I could update this forum.. No clear communication was provided on the issue other than "checked bolt", "checked extractor" that came back with the rifle. I am also bothered that when i did call for an update (after hearing nothing from S&W for two weeks), the person on the other end of the phone acted like I was seriously putting him out by calling. Very abrupt with me (it's not like I was calling every single day asking the same thing over and over).

In short, I rapid fired 100 rounds of various ammo today, two FTFs (Winchester M22), and no FTE. I also managed to pick up a citation from an LEO for discharging a weapon from a highway (I was on a muddy dirt road at least 5 miles from ANYTHING in site, and was only doing a function test, firing directly into the ground in front of me). Yippy

I am happy the rifle is finally performing (as it should have been new out of the box) but I will not be purchasing any S&W products going forward due to their lack of customer service, and being told they would send something that they didn't send). That, and them telling me there were several thousand firearms ahead of mine (not confidence inspiring).

Thanks all for your assistance, I appreciate it
 
I had similar dealings with s&w, I bought a pro series 1911 and first time to the range the plunger tube broke off the frame, sent it in, 4 phone calls and 8 weeks later I get it back, 2 mags thru it and plunger tube broke off again, after a few phone calls to the service manager he tells me send it back in and we will send you a new gun and some extra mags, well they called me back and said they staked the tube on wrong and they did it by hand this time, havnt got it back yet and when I do it will probably go up for sale. Now my 15-22 I bought 2 weeks after I sent my 1911 in the first time for the fte, got it back in 2 weeks and eats any ammo I feed it, said they replaced the bolt and ejector, why can't they send them out right the first time
 
Unfortunately I'll be in touch with home base tomorrow regarding my 15-22. I've had it for about a month now and just haven't had any fun with it. I was hoping the FTE issues were it breaking in or my fault for over oiling it. Nope. Back to the range today for about the 4th time and out of 100 rounds, had 11 FTE. It's frequent enough that it just isn't really much fun to shoot. Very disappointing.
 
I had this issue a few times when my rifle was new, after a bit of research I was told it was the factory finish, oil and dirt from the rounds together gumming the bolt up... I removed and gave it a decent dose of CLP, wiped it down and reinserted it and it's been faultless since.

Hope you get it sorted out, sounds like it's a fault with this particular rifle though.
 
I dropped the rifle off at the Fed Ex store today.

I called S&W and told them the issue and they immediately asked if I'd bent the ejector towards the ejection port and to give that a try. It only had a half mm or so between the ejector and bolt but bent it the rest of the way, no difference.

Got some 1k grit sandpaper and polished the bolt rails and made sure they were straight and flat. Bolt now slides like butter but still no change. Had 5-6 FTE in 50 rounds today.

I give up. This is the 5th gun I've ever owned and the 3rd that's had to go back for issues out of the box. I just have terrible luck with 'em.
 
rweller68: Couple of questions:1) What is a chamber indicator? You mean a flag? Send your address I send you some. 2) 2 wks-4 wks is really the same time frame in case an employee are ill, holidays, etc. If this was a duty weapon they do try to get it done faster but 4 wks is not bad. 3) Call them and ask what the problem was, if no answer move to next supervisor till you get a reasonable answer. 4) No free mag?? Did THEY say they were sending a free mag?? If so let them know that you did not receive it, if you were expecting it because you "had" to send your gun in, you may be out of luck.

As for "problems" with new guns- S&W certainly does not have a monopoly. but just a few examples- I sold a 29 to purchase a 629- first day at the range with myself and 2 other shooters it would not hit a 12" X 12" target, and missed the 3' X 4' target backing with most of the 50 rds. Not a shooter or ammo issue- 5 months till they figured out that the frame was drilled off center 1994, Kimber gold match II - rear sight blade fell out at 25 rds, it had to be returned overnight at owners cost, 2 weeks, first range day-30 rds, rear sight left to oblivion-1200$ gun in 2002, Sig 226 9mm -15 rds, broken extractor-1 month, Mossberg 500 the barrel was not fully machined, would not fit, heritage 22/22 mag 10 foot pattern looked like a shotgun pattern, Benneli SBE 1 - jamming, failure to load from mag. Just a list of firearms that I owned/ sold that had problems out of the box. Price was not the determining factor- mechanical parts put together by humans do not always work! Just saying it could be worse. Be Safe,
 
Hello everybody;
I recently purchased a 15-22 and had similar issues: FTE about every 5-10 rounds, very frustrating. I read this forum and did a few things like polish the rails, etc. No help. So I sent it back to S&W.

I can report very good results. S&W was very responsive, immediately provided me with a shipping label, etc. Less than two weeks later, it was back! The included documentation said they adjusted the extractor, replaced the ejector, and a couple of other things (tightened the barrel nut).

Took it to the range last night - absolutely flawless! 0 FTE in ~200 rounds.

I was using Federal Auto Match ammo. The rounds last night were from literally the same box that I was using when it was malfunctioning. Interestingly, S&W included a copy of the two lists in the instruction manual of the ammo to use and the ammo not to use, highlighted. However, I really do *not* think it was the ammo in this case.

Thanks to this forum for helping me with the issue and I hope this helps someone else.
 
Last edited:
Interestingly, S&W included a copy of the two lists in the instruction manual of the ammo to use and the ammo not to use, highlighted.

Just a comment ...

Those lists are five years old and have never been revised. They were made when S&W was having OBB problems and blaming the problem on particular brands of ammo.

The lists are essentially useless, IMHO, today because most ammo brands aren't even on either list. Also, the list says "not recommended", not "do not use." :)
 
I would like to see a definitive guide to the importance or not of how to check, do something and look after the MP15-22. Which should include the following

1. How should the magazines be loaded - method - how important that is. Should you load 22 rounds and not the full 25 etc?
2. Which ammo doesn't work and which does - this may well reflect S&W guidelines or not. This should talk about subsonic, standard and high velocity rounds and their issues.
3. How much lube, type and where to apply to use after cleaning
4. The relevance to stripping down the bolt and cleaning the pin and the extractor.
5. How much does a dirty ramp and chamber effect any FTE issues
6. The slide guides and spring and issues to watch out for
7. Is there a bedding in period where it works better after?
8. Does the rifle like fast firing or does that lead to more issues?

Basically a list based on real experience and how it effects the efficiency of firing the MP15-22.

Now I bought mine recently (2014 new) and on the first outing it was super reliable on about 400 rounds. Then I cleaned and lubed it and it had quite a few FTE or at least jammed rounds in the eject port and/or bent lead noses.

The rifle is good and it can shoot well but some people have been disappointed so to keep the MP15-22 on a high note and keep everyone happy I would be keen to see some MP15-22 fans go to town on these issues and generate a real picture of what is and isn't necessary with the rifle.
 
Last edited:
Basically a list based on real experience and how it effects the efficiency of firing the MP15-22.
.

My opinions for what they are worth :)
1. How should the magazines be loaded - method - how important that is. Should you load 22 rounds and not the full 25 etc?
A-Loaded with ammo...haha. Seriously, i just load them use the assist button to help guide the round in with downward force from the thumb placing the round in, try to make sure that they are staggered...pull down on the load assist to make sure that the rounds are seated well....load all 25.

2. Which ammo doesn't work and which does - this may well reflect S&W guidelines or not. This should talk about subsonic, standard and high velocity rounds and their issues.
A- I found ammo that my 15-22 likes and is readily available, because i shoot comps with mine i stick to one brand of ammo, because changing ammo, changes POI and the ammo i use is relatively clean for a 22lr.

3. How much lube, type and where to apply to use after cleaning.
A- VERY LITTLE...i use a gun oil ( light viscous mineral oil) ONLY on the bolt rails just enough to see and then i wipe it over with a tissue to clean of that excess and a smaller, minuscule amount on the extractor pin? every once in a while.

4. The relevance to stripping down the bolt and cleaning the pin and the extractor.
A-If you use a particularly dirty brand of ammo, then this will apply more...i generally clean the bolt face/recess and blow air into the firing pin, and remove any gunk after every range trip anything from 50 to 300 rounds, but i enjoy the process, its like a cool down after exercise. :) plus you get to know how it works.

5. How much does a dirty ramp and chamber effect any FTE issues
A- i would say yes it does, or it doesn't help but i cannot remember the last FTE i experienced. my main issue is FTF which are usually ammo related.

6. The slide guides and spring and issues to watch out for
A- Short of losing the spring not a great deal, regarding the guide rails, keep a check and stop them sustaining any damage while cleaning, ie dropping them, bent rails are a big issue. Short of that just enjoy that tuning fork sound as you apply a tiny bit of oil.....pinggggggggggggg.

7. Is there a bedding in period where it works better after?
A-As with anything a little time to allow for comfort and familiarity and your relationship will blossom.

8. Does the rifle like fast firing or does that lead to more issues?
A- As long as you work the trigger properly then i find i can shoot fast, mag after mag, with no issues. In fact i think that the stock trigger, even with the lighter springs cannot go as fast as i can, hence the reason im looking to swap out for a faster lighter pull trigger. Then see what she can really do.

That is what i would answer if my dad wanted to know :)

Basically a list based on real experience and how it effects the efficiency of firing the MP15-22.
 
A thanks for those opinions

Clearly it is not necessary to be manic with the MP15-22 to achieve the good results we like - some threads would suggest otherwise... I agree

Thanks GhostMutt.....

My opinions for what they are worth :)
1. How should the magazines be loaded - method - how important that is. Should you load 22 rounds and not the full 25 etc?
A-Loaded with ammo...haha. Seriously, i just load them use the assist button to help guide the round in with downward force from the thumb placing the round in, try to make sure that they are staggered...pull down on the load assist to make sure that the rounds are seated well....load all 25.

2. Which ammo doesn't work and which does - this may well reflect S&W guidelines or not. This should talk about subsonic, standard and high velocity rounds and their issues.
A- I found ammo that my 15-22 likes and is readily available, because i shoot comps with mine i stick to one brand of ammo, because changing ammo, changes POI and the ammo i use is relatively clean for a 22lr.

3. How much lube, type and where to apply to use after cleaning.
A- VERY LITTLE...i use a gun oil ( light viscous mineral oil) ONLY on the bolt rails just enough to see and then i wipe it over with a tissue to clean of that excess and a smaller, minuscule amount on the extractor pin? every once in a while.

4. The relevance to stripping down the bolt and cleaning the pin and the extractor.
A-If you use a particularly dirty brand of ammo, then this will apply more...i generally clean the bolt face/recess and blow air into the firing pin, and remove any gunk after every range trip anything from 50 to 300 rounds, but i enjoy the process, its like a cool down after exercise. :) plus you get to know how it works.

5. How much does a dirty ramp and chamber effect any FTE issues
A- i would say yes it does, or it doesn't help but i cannot remember the last FTE i experienced. my main issue is FTF which are usually ammo related.

6. The slide guides and spring and issues to watch out for
A- Short of losing the spring not a great deal, regarding the guide rails, keep a check and stop them sustaining any damage while cleaning, ie dropping them, bent rails are a big issue. Short of that just enjoy that tuning fork sound as you apply a tiny bit of oil.....pinggggggggggggg.

7. Is there a bedding in period where it works better after?
A-As with anything a little time to allow for comfort and familiarity and your relationship will blossom.

8. Does the rifle like fast firing or does that lead to more issues?
A- As long as you work the trigger properly then i find i can shoot fast, mag after mag, with no issues. In fact i think that the stock trigger, even with the lighter springs cannot go as fast as i can, hence the reason im looking to swap out for a faster lighter pull trigger. Then see what she can really do.

That is what i would answer if my dad wanted to know :)

Basically a list based on real experience and how it effects the efficiency of firing the MP15-22.
 
Repair report:
My unit was having FTE about 1-3 times per 25 round magazine. Tried adjusting the ejector as much as possible, cleaning, lots of lube, almost no lube, every brand ammo I could get my hands on, no change.

Gave it to Fed Ex on March 4, S&W received it on the 9th, sent it back on the 12th and I got it today, the 17th. Just under 2 weeks turnaround including shipping.

The paperwork says they adjusted the ejector, fired 30 rounds and could not duplicate. I can see no difference in the ejector so am not sure how it was adjusted but whatever they did seemed to do the trick. Went through around 150-200 rounds today without a single hiccup.

So tonight I get to do a thorough cleaning and put all my kit back on it.
 
tramblygoat: GhostMutt is spot on with what he said, just a few additions. On stock 15-22's, Ammo- Standard/HV Fed/win/cci/rem have all worked with out problems, accuracy has varied slightly between the 4 guns- For hunting it would not matter, serious Target I would find the one that is most accurate. Rem subsonics and CCI quiet fired from 16.5" barrel without a suppressor generally will not cycle completely ( they extract/eject but do not reload) , with a can they are about 75% function with CCI quiet being the better. Lube: I use Tuf-Glide because it works for me, it will not freeze( at least not at -35 F), drys without oily feel, does not attract as much dirt as other silicone lubes I used. 22lr are "dirtier" then centerfires, I give the 15-22's no greater attention than Ruger 10-22's. I clean the bore, chamber, lube lightly, I usually go 1K before cleaning, +/- depending on ammo, temp, weather. I have removed the bolts except when teaching someone about the gun. Bottom line if it gets dirty enough it will stop. The few I have tried with a slide fire will fire faster than I can without the slidefire. Time? Have not timed it, there are many u-tube videos you could time. Great inexpensive gun,accurate for what it is, mine have all worked well. If you check some of the threads that start off with I replaced, X,Y,Z parts, before ever firing it and they are having problems, I do not blame the gun. At the same time, I have seen a few high end firearms with problems out of the box, but they are isolated incidents which can be resolved. I would not run over it with a Hummer or throw it from a roof/plane, but my wife and I do shoot them often!! Be Safe,
 
Back
Top