Galloway Trigger kit BG2

For anyone that buys/installs one of the GP triggers, please start a thread on it and share info on how well the install goes and your impressions of trigger pull feel and the trigger pull weight.

I've installed four of them on full size and Shield pistols and I'm curious about these, too.
 
dsk said:
I'll get excited when somebody comes up with something better than that useless manual safety lever.
.
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I will agree with that.
The safeties on the three new ones I have examined had safeties that were so hard to operate that they were basically useless.
I bought one anyway. It took me a month of working the safety on and off 50-100 times, 4 to 5 days a week while watching TV or sitting on the front porch to break it in to where it worked without having to use excessive force.
Smith needs to remedy this, and make the bump on the safety protrude more. A trigger kit to make it 2 to 3 pounds heavier is something that should be an option from an aftermarket supplier. The factory triggers are so light that some pocket carriers having guns without the thumb safeties are going to have ADs when the trigger catches on a piece of fabric while drawing or re-holstering.
 
I ordered one of these the minute I saw it posted here, not because I necessarily feel that this gun needs it, but because for $28 shipped, why not? Hopefully the installation won't be too difficult such that I can do it myself, and swap back if I don't like it. Anyway, the trigger is supposed to arrive today, and Galloway posted their installation video for it today as well, but I haven't had a chance to watch it yet. Unfortunately, with a house full of visitors this week (the perils of owning beachfront property), I likely won't be able to do anything with this until next week. Here's the install video:




Frank
 
pinefd said:
Hopefully the installation won't be too difficult such that I can do it myself, and swap back if I don't like it. Anyway, the trigger is supposed to arrive today, and Galloway posted their installation video for it today as well, but I haven't had a chance to watch it yet.
Frank
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The install does not look difficult. I'm happy with the factory trigger, but I will be interested in the experience you have with your install.
 
tarheel13 said:
The install does not look difficult. I'm happy with the factory trigger, but I will be interested in the experience you have with your install.
Click to expand...
Correction to my post above...it was another "toy" that arrived today and not the trigger. It's still going to be another couple of days before the trigger arrives, and yes, I'll report back on my experience with both the install and the performance.


Frank
 
geeollie said:
Eric at Galloway told me by way of e-mail on August 15 that they will have a stronger striker spring that should be out by year end. He said they will offer it mainly to make primer strike more positive. He add that the new spring should add 1.5 to 2 lbs to the trigger pull.

Same e-mail said they are working with the spring maker on several projects. So, like many things, it is said to be in the works.

PS: I do not do Facebook or instagram etc... how do they announce new offerings?
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I definitely do not want to add pull to my stock trigger at 4 lbs. 2.4 ozs.
I also do not understand why there needs to be a stronger striker spring?
My striker appears to have more than sufficient force to hit the primer.
I do not like the striker drag. Its the only firearm I own that has striker drag.
I read that a stronger striker spring may eliminate the striker drag.:)
The bad thing is.... I will have to drift the rear sight off to replace the factory spring with the Galloway Precision one.(n)
 

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GnarlsR2 said:
See the photo above?
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Yes, I see the photo which seems to show an off center or expanded primer strike. What causes that? Is it the off center chambering of the round or a problem with the firing pin? I don't think I've seen that before.
 
tarheel13 said:
Yes, I see the photo which seems to show an off center or expanded primer strike. What causes that? Is it the off center chambering of the round or a problem with the firing pin? I don't think I've seen that before.
Click to expand...
The Sig 365 did this when first introduced and some had the MIM striker break where it contacts the shell and aftermarket ones flooded the market. They eventually changed the shape of the tip to an angled one to eliminate striker drag. I have one of the older ones and so far it never skips a beat.
 
AI Overview

Striker drag, also known as primer drag, occurs in firearms where the firing pin or striker moves slightly against the primer after the initial firing pin strike, leaving a visible mark. This phenomenon is often observed in striker-fired pistols, especially in compact and subcompact models, due to the mechanics of their firing systems and the movement of the barrel during unlocking.

Here's a more detailed explanation:
  • Mechanism:
    In striker-fired systems, the firing pin is held under spring tension and is released to strike the primer when the trigger is pulled. As the slide moves backward after firing, the barrel may tilt to unlock, and the firing pin or striker may not fully retract before the slide moves rearward, causing it to drag against the primer.

  • Cause:
    This drag is caused by the firing pin or striker moving laterally relative to the primer after ignition while still in contact. It's more likely to occur in firearms with tilting barrels, where the barrel moves to unlock, or in guns with tight tolerances or weak striker return springs.

  • Impact:
    While some consider striker drag a normal occurrence and not a significant issue, others believe it could lead to premature wear or failure of the striker or firing pin.

  • Variations:
    The extent of striker drag can vary from shot to shot in the same gun, and it's often more noticeable in smaller firearms due to their mechanics. Some manufacturers have addressed the issue with design changes to the striker tip or firing pin assembly.

  • Examples:
    The SIG Sauer P365 is a pistol that has been reported to exhibit primer drag. However, newer models and the P365XL have reportedly addressed the issue with design changes.
 
The end of the firing pin on my BG2 is round.
The end of the firing pin on P365 Micro is angled.
Looking at the impact on the primer on a 9mm casing, it clearly shows the angled striker.
Can it be assumed that striker drag can cause excessive wear?
Does an angled striker tip wear out sooner?
 

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AI Overview

The S&W Bodyguard 2.0, like any firearm, requires regular maintenance and parts replacement to ensure optimal performance and reliability. While Smith & Wesson doesn't publish a specific, detailed parts replacement schedule, routine inspection and replacement of certain components based on usage and wear is recommended.

Recommended Maintenance and Replacement:
  • Recoil Spring:
    Similar to the factory recommendation for the original Bodyguard, the recoil spring in the Bodyguard 2.0 should be replaced every 2,500 to 3,000 rounds. Galloway Precision recommends replacing their recoil spring units between 3,500 to 5,000 cycles.

  • Other Springs:
    Inspect and replace other springs (e.g., magazine springs) as needed based on wear and performance. If you notice any issues with magazine feeding or other spring-related functions, it's a good idea to replace the springs.

  • Wear Items:
    Regularly inspect for wear on the slide, barrel, and other critical components. Replace any parts showing excessive wear or damage.

  • Lubrication and Cleaning:
    Proper lubrication and cleaning are crucial for maintaining the firearm. Refer to the owner's manual for specific instructions on lubrication points and cleaning procedures.

  • General Maintenance:
    As a general guideline, perform a thorough inspection of your firearm every six months, similar to how you would handle other routine maintenance tasks like replacing smoke alarm batteries.
 
tarheel13 said:
The install does not look difficult. I'm happy with the factory trigger, but I will be interested in the experience you have with your install.
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I received the trigger today, and finally had a chance to watch the installation video. While the install may not look difficult to you, it looks very difficult and intimidating to me, so I don't think I'm going to attempt it. I'll let others do theirs first, and if I hear/read reports that the trigger makes a big difference, I'll reconsider and/or maybe have my gunsmith install it.


Frank
 
pinefd said:
I received the trigger today, and finally had a chance to watch the installation video. While the install may not look difficult to you, it looks very difficult and intimidating to me, so I don't think I'm going to attempt it. I'll let others do theirs first, and if I hear/read reports that the trigger makes a big difference, I'll reconsider and/or maybe have my gunsmith install it.


Frank
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I understand completely. I'm used to working on Glocks and I was surprised that the frame disassembly of the BG2.0 did not seem so bad. But I would not try breaking down the BG2.0 slide unless I had the same kind of video to guide me. Any procedure on the slide must start with removing the rear sight and that is not something I want to do. :)
 
tarheel13 said:
I hope you will share a video of your disassembly process. I have never seen a detailed video of the breakdown of either the frame components or slide components. This would be very helpful.
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Here you go, Galloway posted a trigger install video and you can learn the internals, looks simple, to me anyway.

 
I just checked my BG 2.0 trigger pull weight and my Lyman digital guage is showing a 10 pull average of 4 lbs 3.5 oz. I'm very pleased with the feel of the trigger. That said, for $28 and free shipping I went ahead and ordered the Galloway Precision Solis Short Stroke Trigger today.

I watched the video and it seems simple enough to install. I'll report back when it arrives and I get it installed. If this install looks difficult, never ever consider doing a Cajun Gun Works Pro Package install on a CZ P-01... Lots of tiny little parts in the Sear Cage.
 
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