Garand experts.......?

[Sprefix]

I found a 1956 "all original" DOD marked Garand and I'd like some input as to other markings and barrel configuration, stock markings, trigger housing, etc. Sight variations are up for advice also, ie, bar type and or adjustments and the like. Any pictures of the barrel end pertaining to lugs and front sights ears' will also be appreciated. I'm thinking I'm going to pull the trigger, but I need some reassurance............Thanks...,Sprefix

 

[Diamondtreo]

First, go here to see what the CMP has: Rifle Sales
Then go here: M1 Garand/M14/M1A
and here: M1 Garand/M14/M1A Rifles
to find your answers.
I suggest purchasing Duff's little blue book (The M1 Garand Serial Numbers and Data Sheets) with examples of correct rifles with their respective period-type parts listings. By 1956, sights were all the same (not lock bar type) and serial numbers were issued in multi-year blocks, so true date of manufacture is harder to pin down than those manufactured during the 1939 - 45 time period. Front sight ears will vary according to MFG as International Harvester's were significantly different than Springfield or Harrington & Richardson (HRA). In my opinion, unless you were fortunate enough to win one of the "original in the bag" M1 returned from Greece, the best you may hope for is a period correct rifle. Most, if not all M1s have been arsnal rebuilt or refurbished & parts were exchanged at random. Matching the serial number & Mfg., found on the receiver heel, drawing number & heat lot found on the front leg of the receiver (under the wood) and barrel mfg. & date (sometimes under the lower handguard - be careful taking it off as it is easy to damage) will go a long way to help you determine whether or not it is original bunch of parts. Be careful with the receiver - if logo, s/n & drawing & heat lot info do not match known specimines as Duff catalogues, you may be looking at different mfg. receiver halfs that were welded together - steer clear of those! I had to wet magnaflux a receiver to prove it was a weld job to get out of an impulse purchase. You will be money and satisfaction ahead to do your homework before you buy. In the meantime, please post what you do know, MFG, S/N, Barrel Mfg & date, etc & I am sure you will be offered help from other forum members. John

 

[chief38]

I agree with the above poster - he gave you good advise!

I have (multiple times) purchased from the CMP and I after getting 5 rifles, 3 Carbines and lots of ammo from them I can say they are VERY GOOD! They go over each weapon and check it for wear, soundness and function. Any questionable parts are replaced with genuine GI parts and the guns are tested prior to shipping. Some stocks are better than others, but for the most part they are fine. I actually like the fact that my rifles and carbines have seen actual use in WWll, and the dents, scratches and wear marks make it authentic, so I have never desired to replace the stock (which is only a hundred bucks or so, certainly cheap enough if you want it to look new).

The CMP does have certain criteria for you to be an eligible buyer, but if you can qualify (check their website) it's the way to go IMHO.

Chief38

 

[keithpip]

M1 Garand

The only advice I could add to the above would be to exercise caution with regard to barrel condition. This isn't an issue with CMP rifles. If you are purchasing a Garand from a gun shop or gun show there's no way to know if the barrel has been shot out. The rifle could be "all original", that is all US GI parts but the barrel could still be shot out. There's no way to know except putting a gauge into the barrel from the chamber end. I don't know about you but I don't walk around with a .30 cal. barrrel gauge in my pocket. Looking down the barrel tells you nothing about whether the barrel will group or not. Example: when I shot high power rifle back in the '80s a guy bought a National Match M1 Garand from another shooter. This Garand came from the CMP in the '50s or 60's. It was all original and looked great. There was only one problem, the barrel was shot out of it. A "rack" M1 would outperform this National Match any day of the week. The only solution was a new barrel. Just be careful.

 

[Sprefix]

Thanks for the info!!

 

[shadowrider]

A rough way to check a barrel is to use a genuine military M2 ball round. Stick it bullet first into the end of the barrel. If it goes into the barrel all the way to the case the barrel is shot out. The farther away from the case to the barrel, the more barrel life it has remaining. This won't tell you squat about throat wear which is always worse than the muzzle wear but it's a way to rough gage a barrel.

Probably not a good idea to do this at a gunshow.

 

[reddogge]

Besides muzzle wear the barrels wore at the throat. There are gages you can measure throat erosion that are available. I have never been a "gage monkey" obsessing on barrel and throat erosion figures and basically just shot the rifles to determine if they shot well or not. Most shoot well, some exceptional.

 

[LouisianaJoe]

I have this book http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1882391195/ref=oh_o00_s01_i01_details

It covers Garands up to 57. It details all of the numbers on all of the parts. I picked up a Special Grade Garand at the CMP in June. Barrel, receiver and trigger assembly were made in 55. Stock was CMP but I refinished it. Throat was less than 2 and muzzle was less than 1. Very accurate!

 

[sureshotbob]

If you want to get into the garand you need to get one or more of Scott Duff's books . But to start do go to the CMP forum and learn about them before you buy one. I wish you were closer as I'd loan you all the gauges to check the OP rod, muzzle, throat and gas cylinder. If you get one you will not regret it.

 

[mkk41]

FWIW , I've always felt Garands got more muzzle wear/damage from that rough parkerized sectional GI issue cleaning rod. Parkerizing is very abrasive and the sections rarely lined up perfectly.

Get a good one piece cleaning rod for that old soldier!

 

[Armyphotog]

When I had to carry one, the only thing I had to remember (other than how to take it apart and put it back together), was the serial number. Didn't give a hoot about them way back then, now I own a 6-digit serial number one that rips the heart out of a bulls eye at any distance. Wouldn't take anything for it. Dated to 1942.