I am still learning something new about S&W Gen-2 and Gen-3 Pistols. My current learning curve is the Sear(s).
The following quotes are from an old Thread and are not my words, but they are some of the very few comments I have read about the Sear(s) and may or may not be accurate.
"The sears were marked so that you could vary the pick-up point for the single action on the SA/DA 3rd Gen. autos. "0" was the standard sear, followed by, 1, 2, 3, 4, & 6."
"It has been said that replacing a "0" sear with a "1" sear was like giving the gun a trigger job. Does that make sense? I suppose it depends on whether the gun was in spec to begin with."
"I was told that the numbered ones were for repair purpose when a particular gun might require one in order for it to fall within normal spec."
The next information is from what I have been able to glean from Sear(s) offered for sale on Internet Web sites. The model numbers were also taken from the advertisement:
#None = Gen-2 & Early Gen-3, TDA, Stainless, Machined, 469, 459, 539, 559, 659, 669
#0 = Early Gen-3, TDA, Standard, Stainless, Machined, 915, 4566, 457, 5904, 5906, 6904, 6906,
#1 = Mid Gen-3, TDA, Stainless, Machined, 6904, 6906,
#2 = None Observed
#3 = Gen-3, DA Only, Standard, Stainless, Machined, 3944, 3946, 4546, 4556, 5944, 5946, 6944, 6946, 1046
#4 = Late Gen-3, TDA, Standard, Cast, 411, 914, 915, 3913, 3914, 4006, 5904, 5906, 6904, 6906, 1006,
#6 = None Observed
#M = Late Gen-3, DA only, Mim with Mim Hammer, Black, 6946, 457, 410S, 3913, CS40, CS45, 4506-1,
My experience with changing Sear(s) in my Pistols:
Early 6904 was very gritty, originally equipped with a "#0" Sear... when I removed it, the machine work was extremely poor... replaced with a "#4" sear and now it is smooth and I can even hear the trigger reset.
Early 659 would not de-cock from half cock, replaced the disconnect with a Type 2, and installed a Gen-3 Hammer without half cock notch and a "#4" Sear. Operation is now extremely smooth.
Would love to have more information about the Sear(s) and how they were used...
Audie
The following quotes are from an old Thread and are not my words, but they are some of the very few comments I have read about the Sear(s) and may or may not be accurate.
"The sears were marked so that you could vary the pick-up point for the single action on the SA/DA 3rd Gen. autos. "0" was the standard sear, followed by, 1, 2, 3, 4, & 6."
"It has been said that replacing a "0" sear with a "1" sear was like giving the gun a trigger job. Does that make sense? I suppose it depends on whether the gun was in spec to begin with."
"I was told that the numbered ones were for repair purpose when a particular gun might require one in order for it to fall within normal spec."
The next information is from what I have been able to glean from Sear(s) offered for sale on Internet Web sites. The model numbers were also taken from the advertisement:
#None = Gen-2 & Early Gen-3, TDA, Stainless, Machined, 469, 459, 539, 559, 659, 669
#0 = Early Gen-3, TDA, Standard, Stainless, Machined, 915, 4566, 457, 5904, 5906, 6904, 6906,
#1 = Mid Gen-3, TDA, Stainless, Machined, 6904, 6906,
#2 = None Observed
#3 = Gen-3, DA Only, Standard, Stainless, Machined, 3944, 3946, 4546, 4556, 5944, 5946, 6944, 6946, 1046
#4 = Late Gen-3, TDA, Standard, Cast, 411, 914, 915, 3913, 3914, 4006, 5904, 5906, 6904, 6906, 1006,
#6 = None Observed
#M = Late Gen-3, DA only, Mim with Mim Hammer, Black, 6946, 457, 410S, 3913, CS40, CS45, 4506-1,
My experience with changing Sear(s) in my Pistols:
Early 6904 was very gritty, originally equipped with a "#0" Sear... when I removed it, the machine work was extremely poor... replaced with a "#4" sear and now it is smooth and I can even hear the trigger reset.
Early 659 would not de-cock from half cock, replaced the disconnect with a Type 2, and installed a Gen-3 Hammer without half cock notch and a "#4" Sear. Operation is now extremely smooth.
Would love to have more information about the Sear(s) and how they were used...
Audie
