Good value on a bow?

snm8510

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Hey, so since this isn't a firearm/knife question, I figured I'd post it here.. Anyways, I'm looking into getting into archery and bow hunting and trying to find a cheap bow at a good value.. Anybody have any suggestions?? I went to my LGS and they have this offer: Parker Bows Python Ready-to-Hunt Pkg 70lb RH for $460, but said they'd drop it to $399 for me if I come back tomorrow for it. Is it worth it? I know nothing about bows so all the help I can get would be great.

Thank y'all
 
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Don't own a Parker, but I have heard good things about them. There are a lot of good, brand name bow packages available in the $400 range.

Bow manufacturers seem in a race to announce the newest and best bows every year, but any quality, mid priced bow will work fine. Just make sure the draw length when using a release fits you, and you are comfortable with the weight. Make sure your arrows are cut to the proper length, and spined for your bows weight. Any archery pro shop, or competent gun shop selling bows should be able to set you up. For what its worth, I still use my nearly 20 year old Jennings Buckmaster, have taken four deer with it, and am just about as competitive with it at the local 3-D shoots as guys using new $1000 wonder bows. Its not the price of the bow, as long as you use a properly matched system, so much as it just practicing, and knowing where your rig shoots. Just like a handgun...

Larry
 
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I've shot bows most of my life until I had a shoulder injury
I've found some really good deals at flea markets on compound bows and crossbows I've never paid retail for a bow yet the most I've ever paid for a flea market bow was $75.00 and it was a Fred Bear bow
I currently have a Horton storm reverse compound crossbow I bought off Craigslist for $350.00 it's a $1000.00 value bow
Most sports stores have a range to let you try a bow out before buying if it's your first bow check draw length

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I used to shoot a lot of archery back in the 60's and 70's, and I know friends that still bow hunt. The Compound bows values drop like a rock when used. A friend has 4 bows, and all originally cost well over $1000, and the most he paid for any of them was $300, one was $150. The technology seems to change every 6-12 months and no one wants the "old" style. I can tell you that Hoyt, PSE, are both quality bows.
 
I've shot bows for many years. Both compound and now , for the last 20 or so years , longbows and recurves. My best advise to you, since you say that you have no experience what so ever with bows is to get with your local pro shop and have them set you up properly. If you decide to take the deal that you mentioned, make sure that the offer also includes some basic instruction and set up.
 
Recurves have stood the test of time !
Almost as well as the recurve vs. longbow conversations!
Seem to hold values well also, Dependant upon the name on the bow, mine are Hewitt !
Sorry for the drift, but bigwheelzip gave me the idea! ��
 
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Just get a decent quality recurve bow and practice. That will save you the extra money for a compound and give you a chance to learn good techinique. I've had a Pearson for 30 years and it works as well as the day I inherited it. At 24 pounds it's a very light, but that helps my technique. The bow in the following link is similar to mine.
Ben Pearson Wooden Recurve Bow #2563 40 lb | eBay
 
Just get a decent quality recurve bow and practice. That will save you the extra money for a compound and give you a chance to learn good techinique. I've had a Pearson for 30 years and it works as well as the day I inherited it. At 24 pounds it's a very light, but that helps my technique. The bow in the following link is similar to mine.
Ben Pearson Wooden Recurve Bow #2563 40 lb | eBay

Excellent choice, the 40# weight class! My lighter bow is 35#, which I start with when I have been lax in practice time. Allows the shooter to concentrate on technique, and get the muscles back in form and use, before going to the heavier weight for hunting or other uses. Starting off at 50# plus is looking for muscle damage and technique errors, that may take a long time to overcome. Targets do not know that you are using a lighter weight, but your body will appreciate it!
 
Definitely don't be afraid to start recurve/longbow. The learning curve is a little longer but in the end more satisfying. With a little tutelage you can pick up a compound and be hitting the bullseye repeatedly in 20 minutes. After that it's all about yardage estimation.

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I have many recurves that I have picked up over the years mostly from pawn shops I have hunted for a Ben Pearson Palomino re-curve for years and never found one I am 195 lbs. and a 70# bow is way to much for me. Some of the older re-curves may have twisted limbs from improper stringing. A little more info on re-curves to tell the weight of the bow they will ink the pull weight at 28" and if it is a 45# and the bow pull weight is 47 they will put 45xx and if it 43# they will mark it xx45. Google Herters re-curve bow and look at what they used to sell, I drooled over their catalog with their bows. Good luck Jeff
 
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Here is one of the fancier recurves that I hunt with.
It's a Wes Wallace Mentor. Those are real Prairie Rattler snake skins that I laminated to the limbs myself.
The antler Burr limb bolts are made by a good friend of mine.
 
I noticed both those bows are left handed. Just curious, are you naturally left handed or do you just shoot left handed? I am naturally right handed, but shot archery left handed, (and made it to Class A NFAA back in the 70's and was awarded a certificate for shooting a score over 500 on the NFAA field course, this was with a recurve and fingers, no release aid.)
 
Last but not least My High Sierra recurve , made by Fox bows.
This is my heaviest weight bow. 55# draw @ 27" It's a very stout bow at just 58" over all length.
 
I noticed both those bows are left handed. Just curious, are you naturally left handed or do you just shoot left handed? I am naturally right handed, but shot archery left handed, (and made it to Class A NFAA back in the 70's and was awarded a certificate for shooting a score over 500 on the NFAA field course, this was with a recurve and fingers, no release aid.)
Excellent shooting.Yes I am naturally left handed and fortunately, left eye dominate also. I never shot in any of the NFAA sanctioned shoots. I was strictly an IBO sanctioned shooter.I Qualified and shot in the IBO World shoot back in 1999. I placed 15 out of 157 shooters in my class. Not exceptional, but I was pretty stoked. There were literally 1000's of qualified shooters from all over the world.
 
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This is the bow that I shoot now, in an indoor league that just started last Thursday. It is one of only 15 ever made in left hand By David Souza
 
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