Goopy Grips (How to Clean?)

[magnummitch]

Damn! The prices on a nice un-Bubba-tized setta N frame checkered footballs is not about to stop rising... So I found me a pr. that is in dire need of resurection. They are on the way (in the mail), & only cost me $21, (including shipping). They seem to be in pretty good shape,except Bubba got out some type of resin or perhaps an epoxy an filled in the checkered area inside of the routed groove to make 'Smooth' Grips..'Smooth move Bub'- Now it is up to me to remove this goop, and Hopefully,soften it up & peel it off like a waffle. What is the best solvent to clean up 1970's targets? I hope to do this 'surgically' ( work on just affected area)- but in the worse case- what is best to soak them clean in? And what is best approximation of the original finish?

 

[magnummitch]

Damn! The prices on a nice un-Bubba-tized setta N frame checkered footballs is not about to stop rising... So I found me a pr. that is in dire need of resurection. They are on the way (in the mail), & only cost me $21, (including shipping). They seem to be in pretty good shape,except Bubba got out some type of resin or perhaps an epoxy an filled in the checkered area inside of the routed groove to make 'Smooth' Grips..'Smooth move Bub'- Now it is up to me to remove this goop, and Hopefully,soften it up & peel it off like a waffle. What is the best solvent to clean up 1970's targets? I hope to do this 'surgically' ( work on just affected area)- but in the worse case- what is best to soak them clean in? And what is best approximation of the original finish?

 

[HEADKNOCKER]

I would try soaking them in Acetone..
That's what guys use to soften & remove the varnish or laquer finish on the Grips/stocks..
Hopefully the epoxy didn't stick well??
Good Luck cleaning those up..
Maybe VM or some other grip refinish guru will chime in with a better answer than mine..
Gary/Hk

 

[BruceM]

Acetone should get rid of any varnish or shellac but I don't believe that it's very effective on polyurethane. The only thing that I know of which will break down epoxy, if that's what it really is, is heat.

Bruce

 

[Gunhacker]

If it's some kind of epoxy, you might be able to soften it up enough to be able to scrub it out with a stiff nylon brush, by soaking them in acetone or MEK. But that stuff is really harsh on wood and will also pull out the natural oils and stain, leaving them dry and bleached looking, so figure on doing a complete refinish.

I wouldn't expect to be able to peel it out like a waffle, the recessed border around the checkering is usually bare wood and the epoxy or what ever it has has probably gotten a good hold, plus the material with the soaking, will likely end up being something between semi-rubbery to flat out gooey.

There are paint strippers made specifically for polyurethane finishes, that's what I would start off with, and it might take 2 - 3 or more applications to "whittle away" at it.

The key thing is don't be too anxious to get the job done, I suspect it's going to be slow going, based on my experiences with "de-bubba'ing" grips with a heavy coat(s) of polyurethane finish.

S&W used a variety of oil based varnishes when they stil made their own grips, thin coats of Birchwood Casey "Tru-oil" comes the closest. Also, to seal off the checkered area, use a real thin/diluted mixture of the tru-oil and lightly apply it with a tooth brush.

 

[m1gunner]

Get some "Aircraft Stripper" it is in a blue can (liquid and aerosol) available at auto parts stores and Walmart.

It is made to take epoxy paints off.

If it doesn't work, use steam and lots of it. The steam will raise the grain and swell the wood, should help dislodge the epoxy. The steam is sort of a last ditch attempt, though.