Grips/ Stocks Finishing and Restoring Coloring Agent

fleabus101

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I thought I'd mention a useful coloring
tinting agent I've used for a very long time.
That is Old English Furniture polish, mainly the
dark type. It comes in Dark and Light tinted
types.
I've found it mixes well with most kind of oil
based finishes like tung oil, linseed oils, danish oil, even the tru-oil polymer based finish.
The drying time may be longer with the mixed
finish, but I've found it works as well or better
than chasing down the various tints to color
wood work.
It also is useful for light sanding in wood to fill the open pores to create the wet slurry pore filling step. Useful agent too for burnishing in with steel wool the final top coat step. I used to do all manor of mixes to color wood. Nowadays I'm down to this one color mixing medium.
I recently burnished in a coat w the Old English
agent and 4/0 steel wool to produce this last
medium satin, sorta shiny look, on an exc set
of Curt Harlows Roper grips. His finish work
is terrific allways, but I was just piddling on them lately.
I hope this helps the folks here in your restoration/ grips work. It has worked well for me for many years. A few pics for you here..
Best Randy
 

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It's always appreciated when folks offer great tips on restoration and gunsmithing repairs. Thanks much, I will give this method a try..

In addition to gun work, I also repair/restore Federal style furniture.
 

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Very Very great looking finishes on those pieces !! The top finishes and the " fruitwood"?
front drawer veneers look very period..
Just FYI I've been taping a show on The
DiscoveryHD channel (278 on Dish) that
highlights Antique Restoration methods and
collecting based out of England..
The Salvage Hunters and the Salvage Hunters
the Restorers..
Its an interesting look like an upscale Pickers
and restoring show..just to throw it out there.
Thanks for the encouragement on the post.
Best Randy.
 
The tables are two different matched pairs of two drawer stands. Primary wood is cherry. Drawer fronts are tiger maple. Staining cherry can be problematic as it tends to get blotchy, so I first seal the surface with a light cut of flaked shellac. This promotes a nice even color when the stain goes on while still showing the beauty of the cherry grain. Finish is usually poly or varnish. Wet sanded (with mineral spirits) using 600 grit paper. Followed by pumice stone and rotten stone mixed with mineral oil to desired sheen.

I will add Salvage Hunters to my DVR list. Thanks.
 
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