Gunsmith Revolver Help Needed...Two Part Question

[robertwhite]

Ok, maybe someone can help me out here...

Both of these guns are a a pawn shop, so take that for what its worth. Both are just shooter grade guns and price is fairly low, with lower price bargaining a definite possibility.

Gun #1 is a 1962 Model 15-2 asking $325.

When holding the gun with cylinder closed and hammer down, I can turn the cylinder clockwise with just a little force. And not just until it locks/clicks on the next chamber or 2 away. I can turn it a full 360* with little effort. When pulling the trigger, the cylinder rotates as it should and seems to lock on each hole like it should.

So, why can the cylinder be turned the wrong way, and what type of fix is involved?

Gun #2 is a Model 13-1 with bobbed hammer and nickel finish. I did not see any NYSP markings, so I figure it is a civilian market, 1st year 13 (1974 according to serial). No nickel flaking and maybe a 78-82% gun. Asking $400

On this gun, when the hammer is cocked exposing the firing pin, I noticed that it is attached to the hammer on a pivot (roll pin?) When looking at the firing pin, it is sort of curved upward as opposed to being straight.

I have never had a 13, so I don't know if this is correct or not. Is the pin bent, and what would it take to get a new pin on (or even are they available), or is it correct that way?

Thanks

 

[ralph7]

I don't think there's anything wrong w/either.
Pics and/or barrel lengths would be a BIG help.

 

[robertwhite]

I don't think there's anything wrong w/either.
Pics and/or barrel lengths would be a BIG help.

I can't turn any of my other S&W's cylinder the wrong way, so there has to be something wrong.

Can't give pics as it was in a pawn shop and they were closing shop for the night when I was there.

Anyone else?

 

[Mike McLellan]

I'm willing to bet that on the 15-2, the cylinder stop is not seating into its grooves on th e cylinder. The reason can be: dirt or crud on the top surface of the stop, or under the frame, weak spring, normal wear on the ball of the stop. Fixing it may involve a little head-scratching, but not much else. I wouldn't balk at buying because of that. On the other one, try the action with the cylinder open. If the firing pin slides through its bushing smoothly and extends far enough to ignite, no problem.

 

[robertwhite]

I'm willing to bet that on the 15-2, the cylinder stop is not seating into its grooves on th e cylinder. The reason can be: dirt or crud on the top surface of the stop, or under the frame, weak spring, normal wear on the ball of the stop. Fixing it may involve a little head-scratching, but not much else. I wouldn't balk at buying because of that.

Thanks. Kind of what I expected to be wrong, but nice to hear from someone else.

On the other one, try the action with the cylinder open. If the firing pin slides through its bushing smoothly and extends far enough to ignite, no problem.

I guess I can try that, but as it left the factory, was the pin supposed to be straight? And also, just assuming it needs to be replaced, it would be a matter of driving the roll pin out, replacing firing pin, re-install, no?

ETA: In looking at a M14 I have, I see that the pin is slightly turned up. With that in mind, I would say that the pin on that M13 is definitely more bent. Whether it comes thru the hole enough and/or is the hole elongated from the pin riding in and out while rubbing is a different story

Thanks for the help.

 

[dfariswheel]

If the firing pin is bent any significant amount it won't be able to move through the firing pin bushing in the frame...OR...the hole in the bushing will be elongated.

Note that the "roll pin" in the hammer is NOT a roll pin. It's a hollow tube that's flared on both ends. DO NOT attempt to install a roll pin in a S&W.

 

[robertwhite]

If the firing pin is bent any significant amount it won't be able to move through the firing pin bushing in the frame...OR...the hole in the bushing will be elongated.

Note that the "roll pin" in the hammer is NOT a roll pin. It's a hollow tube that's flared on both ends. DO NOT attempt to install a roll pin in a S&W.

So if the pin has to be R&R, a new "tube" is just installed and flared, yes?

 

[loc n load]

Hammer nose issue

As stated above, if the gun cycles normally, the firing pin ( hammer nose) is functioning properly.....Smith alternated back and forth with spring loaded hammer noses in K frame magnums and then went to hammer noses without springs due to the tiny springs breaking. So the configuration of the hammer nose may be different than what you are accustomed to seeing.

 

[dfariswheel]

So if the pin has to be R&R, a new "tube" is just installed and flared, yes?

Yes, a new tube use used and the ends are flared. The firing pin MUST be free to pivot up and down in the hammer but should have minimal side to side movement.

 

[glider1]

The fireing pin or hammer nose does look like it's bent but it isn't, they all look like that. Like the man said, if it goes thru the frame it's good.