Hammer block

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I was reading something the other day, where a gunsmith questioned the need for the hammer block for S&W revolvers. He stated that the hammer block was a fix to a problem that never happened--the shearing off of the block on the rebound slide. Was there ever any reported real world case of the rebound slide block failing?

I suppose it is nice to have some redundancy for such an important task, and the hammer block cannot add much in cost or weight. So, I'm not suggesting getting rid of the hammer block, just wondering if it isn't basically redundant.
 
It would take someone like Roy Jinks to confirm the story but according to internet lore during WWII a British Naval Lieutenant dropped a Victory revolver on the steel deck of a ship he was one. The hammer pivot pin sheared and due to this the hammer was driven forward so that the firing pin struck the primer causing the revolver to fire. When that happened the bullet went into the head of that Lieutenant and killed him. As a result after WWII was over S&W's Engineering staff was tasked to add an additional layer of safety to the rebounding hammer of their revolvers to positively insure that they couldn't fire if dropped.

The result is the current hammer block safety and IMO it's only potential negative is a slight subdued rattle if the revolver is shaken. They can also be a bit of a challenge to learn how to position properly to re-assemble the side plate but just 1/2 to 1 hours practice will teach someone how to do it instinctively. BTW, as for those who claim they can feel the hammer block when pulling the trigger. Bunk, aint no one on the planet with a finger that sensitive.
 
It would take someone like Roy Jinks to confirm the story but according to internet lore during WWII a British Naval Lieutenant dropped a Victory revolver on the steel deck of a ship he was one. The hammer pivot pin sheared and due to this the hammer was driven forward so that the firing pin struck the primer causing the revolver to fire. When that happened the bullet went into the head of that Lieutenant and killed him. As a result after WWII was over S&W's Engineering staff was tasked to add an additional layer of safety to the rebounding hammer of their revolvers to positively insure that they couldn't fire if dropped.

You should actually do a little research. Other than a revolver going bang having been (allegedly) dropped on the steel deck of a ship and killing a sailor, much of your "understanding" is wrong.

It is an intersting story and the more you read the more you wonder what went on. There was alot of politics involved over weapons procurement, done by the army for the navy at the time, and S&W or Colt getting the contract and a very short deadline given to S&W to make their gun "drop proof" to retain the contract and maybe some animous between the fella who allegedly dropped the gun and the fella who was shot and killed.

There's a bunch of documentation available if you take the time to keep following references and footnotes. I did once, killing time during/after chemo.
 
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FWIW, the 1937 version of the 1917 (made for Brazil ?) had a firing pin block operated by the hand. So there was some appreciation pre-war that a potential problem of some type existed. That would seem to place the alleged WWII incident in the horse feathers bin. At least without copies of the reports such an incident would require.
 
I personally was acquainted with a Nevada Game Warden that thought of himself as 'gunsmith'. He removed the hammer block from his S&W model 27 for a better 'trigger pull'. The day came when he pulled off his gunbelt after a day in the field, placed the wrapped holster/handgun on the shelf above his desk and turned away. The S&W slid out of the holster and hit the hardwood floor on the hammer. The hammer sheared and fired the cartridge. The bullet hit the Game Warden just below the heart and he was dead in minutes. I have seen the scene. The dent in the hardwood floor wasn't that all fired deep. As a gunsmith and S&W armorer, I learned very early in the game how to get excellent trigger pulls in S&W revolvers and STILL RETAIN the hammer block.

If your 'gunsmith' advocates removal of the hammer block. Get a gunsmith that knows what he/she is doing. That 'person' is not worthy of the title "Gunsmith". ................ Big Cholla
 
My revolvers don't have hammer spurs. You can't drop it on the floor and hit the hammer. How idiot proof do you think a gun can/should be? No matter what you do someone will find a way to screw up. The only way I know of is to keep it unloaded but even then you get into "I thought it was unloaded".
 
Since S&W designed and started using that hammer block so long ago, way before today's liability-suit-driven design changes, I have to believe that it serves a purpose. Generally speaking the hammer block does not make a difference in trigger pull or anything else. As a matter of fact, I used to own an old model 36 that had some sort of hitch in it's DA getalong - I was never able to figure out exactly what it was but it disappeared when the hammer block was removed. It was such a slight hitch that it could only be detected when testing the DA pull with the mainspring removed. In other words, the average person would never know it was there, but I did and it bugged me. Since I didn't want to remove the hammer block permanently I sold the gun off.
 

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