Hammer less ID
- Thread starter Nickjc
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Looks like a 38 Safety, 2nd Model, but you did not supply a serial number? The S&W logo did not appear on any models made prior to 1896, except for the hard rubber stocks that started around 1879. The 2nd Model ran from 1887 to 1890. You may or may not have caliber stamping on the barrel as that was another later era stamping on these guns.
Thanks Gary !
I am trying to get the serial from a friend of mine up at the shop to supply it. I do not see any other marking except for the top rib, the grips and on the cylinder. Once I have the serial I will post it so maybe we can date it better.
I had the side plate off as the firearm came in to the shop as not working - we do not want it- destroy.
But I am going to save it - once I had it apart, all it needed was a good deep cleaning of the action and it appears to function fine.
Are there any better articles or write ups on this model action type, from a service and gotchas standpoint?
Thanks for taking the time to respond !
It seems that more often than not, the old S&Ws with function issues are easily solved by a complete dis-assemble and cleaning. That revolver would have shipped most likely in early 1890, so it has 127 years of dirt, dried grease, and debris in the works.
There are many good reference books for vintage S&Ws and I would say that best identification reference out there is by Roy Jinks and Robert Neal, Smith & Wesson 1857 to 1945. There are also a couple of good books that detail function & parts, contains schematics, and deals with repairs on old S&Ws and many other guns by David Chicoine. Antique Firearms Assembly/Disassembly & Gunsmithing Guns of the Old West.
I just noticed that the pivot screw appears to be in backwards. The screw head should be on the left and there is a small alignment mark that matches the pin on the right side. The pin head has a slot that allows the head of the pin to look almost flush with the frame when tightened.
There are many good reference books for vintage S&Ws and I would say that best identification reference out there is by Roy Jinks and Robert Neal, Smith & Wesson 1857 to 1945. There are also a couple of good books that detail function & parts, contains schematics, and deals with repairs on old S&Ws and many other guns by David Chicoine. Antique Firearms Assembly/Disassembly & Gunsmithing Guns of the Old West.
I just noticed that the pivot screw appears to be in backwards. The screw head should be on the left and there is a small alignment mark that matches the pin on the right side. The pin head has a slot that allows the head of the pin to look almost flush with the frame when tightened.
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I just ordered the book and should have it tomorrow - some good weekend reading - that's the other nice part about collecting is all the books i get as well. Nothing better than a book imo - lol
When removing that screw, as far as you might know, are there any 'any flying parts' that happen to be in that assembly - or is there a good schematic still available? thanks !
The pivot pin is a two-piece affair that passes thru two ears of the frame, two ears of the barrel, and the ejector pawl. The pawl has a radially-loaded spring in the center, but nothing should go boing when pushing out and reversing the pivot pin, as long as you're careful and go slow. You'll see the registration marks when you get the pin reinstalled. Please do keep us advised.
Larry
Larry
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I was able to get up to the shop an get the pistol squared away and reverse the screw. At the same time I took it apart further, at the cylinder and removed that to get some additional 'gunk' out etc.
What I find odd is the small amount of material at the cylinder latch that prevents the cylinder to be unscrewed unless depressed. Man that is a tight tolerance....
If it is what I think you are talking about, that is supposed to work the way you describe. There is a retainer on the lower part of that pivoting latch, preventing the cylinder from unscrewing during use. You have to push the front down and hold that retainer up in order to unscrew the cylinder. Don't let the retainer drop during removal or replacement, since it can score the finish.
Yes, is that the name pivot, or retainer latch....I was not sure sure so I used cylinder....
more info on the pistol......
I notice that when loading the pistol, upon tryING to eject non fired rounds.....about halfway through the ejection stroke there appears to be binding. ....
I have not attempted to force it and the rounds do drop right out however. ..
I have not fired it as yet to see if with an empty case it is easier....could it be binding on the bullet? dunno. any thoughts?
I notice that when loading the pistol, upon tryING to eject non fired rounds.....about halfway through the ejection stroke there appears to be binding. ....
I have not attempted to force it and the rounds do drop right out however. ..
I have not fired it as yet to see if with an empty case it is easier....could it be binding on the bullet? dunno. any thoughts?
I think the hammerless ejector was designed to eject fired
casings, not loaded rounds. Just my $.02.
casings, not loaded rounds. Just my $.02.
