Hammer push on 66

jasnake65

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Picked up a used 66 and didn't check the push. Takes a good amount of push on hammer to make it move. Took off the side plate and did inspected it. On the hammer part looks like a good amount of use on the step. On the trigger area looks clean compared to the hammer. Maybe a new hammer or take it to a smith and let them do there work? NE Florida area
 
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Here's a recent thread concerning push off. (click on the link below) One of the ways to properly discern whether the condition is present or is a concern is to check the single action trigger pull with a reliable pull gauge. SA pull should range at or around 3 pounds, and be consistent. When a push off condition exists, it normally causes a very light trigger pull in single action, and the trigger "escape" to the rear during hammer break is adversely affected and feels abnormal.

Hammer push off question

Also, if you are able, check the rebound slide spring to see if it is the original, or if it has been cut or someone has substituted a lighter spring. Many times, if the spring has been changed, the condition can be cured by going back to the 17 coil factory rebound spring. A good cleaning of the internals can also help.

Please be sure to do any testing and evaluation with the sideplate on. Failing to do so can cause damage.
 
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armorer951 is very good when it comes to these things, he sent me a video of how to hone a trigger last year on a 66 that I got on the cheap because it had push off that was down right dangerous. The purchase of one India stone and his advice I had the 66 up and running in no time.
 
Thanks for the replies and I was looking at that thread before I posted mine. She's all clean, 17 count from one end to other. I should get a pull gauge by the end of the week. I needed a new screwdriver kit and bought one of Wheelers with the pull gauge.
 

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Here's "the usual" on hammer push off in the S&W revolvers.......

1. Shortened or lightweight rebound spring. You already checked this.

2. Lightweight or altered mainspring.
Look for signs of grinding or a non-S&W spring.
Replace the spring.

3. Shortened or backed out strain screw.
This is the screw in the lower-front of the grip frame. It may have come unscrewed or may have been shortened to give a lighter trigger pull. This screw MUST be tight and kept tight.
If shortened, replace the screw.

4. Worn or altered trigger sear nose.
If this is the case, repair requires a 6 inch fine cut stone. We can give you details on HOW this is done, but it's NOT done by holding the stone in your hand and stoning the sear free-hand.

5. Altered hammer notch.
Replace the hammer.

6. Impacted fouling and/or dried lubricant.
Clean the parts and apply fresh lube.
 
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