Hammer Spur Damaging Shirt - Problem Solved

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I carry appendix position most of the time. Usually a Smith & Wesson J or K or Colt D Frame. Some of my holsters fully cover the hammer spur. My favorite, the Lobo Gun Leather, does not and sometimes the hammer spur eats at my shirt.

I looked for solutions. Yes, I could carry only centennials and bodyguards. No doubt. But, I like my 60s, 36s, 37s, etc. I tried electrician's shrink tube on the hammer spur. Looks like it will take the edge off. It is reversable. Hammer remains fully functional. Costs almost nothing. Just a $3.00 pack of shrink tube and 10seconds with a heat gun.

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One of the big issues, is the edges of the spur. You can file a slight bevel on the edges, even run the file over the top to blunt some of the serrations a bit.

I also bevel the edges of the thumb piece.
 
I cut the hammer spurs off all my revolvers that are carried concealed, to include J through N frame sizes. The corners of the adjustable sights then pick up the slack and cut holes in my shirts. I won't bevel the rear sights because I don't want to see a rounded sight picture.
 
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Self defense / Police revolvers should be fired double-action only. If you don't have a secure strap covering the hammer there is always be a chance of snagging/cocking the hammer accidently. IMO have the hammer completely covered by the holster and or remove the spur. You can use a replacement hanmer to save the original. Same for pocket carry.

Here is an example, depending on your tastes. Hammer cut and narrow trigger rounded and smoothed.
 

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Self defense / Police revolvers should be fired double-action only. If you don't have a secure strap covering the hammer there is always be a chance of snagging/cocking the hammer accidently. IMO have the hammer completely covered by the holster and or remove the spur. You can use a replacement hanmer to save the original. Same for pocket carry.

Here is an example, depending on your tastes. Hammer cut and narrow trigger rounded and smoothed.


I strongly prefer bobbed, spurless, or enclosed hammers. However, I have A LOT of revolvers in the carry rotation. It's not practical to bob or swap all of the hammers. This is a compromise. That said, it appears to work just fine.
 
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I strongly prefer bobbed, spurless, or enclosed hammers. However, I have A LOT of revolvers in the carry rotation. It's not practical to bob or swap all of the hammers. This is a compromise. That said, it appears to work just fine.

At least you are aware of the compromise.
 
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A slip on pencil eraser.
If you want to get really fancy look in the kid's school section at stores for those with animal and cartoon characters. You'll be the talk at the range.
 
Years ago I had the end of the hammer spur on a brand new model 65 cutting into the lining of a holster's thumb break. I found I could solve the problem with a stone before having to resort to a file or dremel. Your idea looks good.
 
Decades ago, I bobbed the hammers on 2 J frames. Later I went through an intensive revolver training course and discovered a slew of malfunctions where the IAD was a hearty yank on the hammer spur. One of these days I may fit new hammers to those Js.
 
We discovered that the rubber tips on the coat tree in the Investigations Division were a perfect fit on the hammer of a Model 39. Hardware store calls them thread protectors.
 
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My former friend G. Gordon Liddy relates in his book WILL that he had his tailor sew a piece of sailcloth inside his suit coat so hammer would not wear hole in coat. He also had his tailor rearrange his belt loops so that holster was always in same place when he reached for it.

G. Gordon Liddy was an interesting guy. Used to see him around the Great Falls / Tysons Corner, VA area occasionally in the 1990s. Had an interestng radio program as well.

UPDATE to my original post. I found some clear shrink tube. Will probably use the clear going forward. Looks a little better.
 
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