I recently acquired an early model S&W 32-20 that apparently was reconditioned with a lot of unused parts. All numbers are matching. Zero play in the cylinder, very firm but smooth SA (7-8#s) with a DA (12+#s). It defiantly effects accuracy. What are your thoughts for correcting SA to 3-4#S and DA to 6#s. It is very tight with minimal play in all its functions. It as been refinished in nickel.
Hard DA/SA Trigger on M&P 32-20
- Thread starter delta-419
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I guess the first question is how early is early? 1899’s and 1902’s are a whole different animal than the 1905s. I’d start with a detail strip and cleaning. Ive performed the same polishing and spring changes as any other k frame action with good success . Good luck.
OP
1905
It is an HE model of 1905 with serial number 86831. Its marked 32WCF on the barrel. I tried to get it a bit smoother by backing out the spring retention screw, no help. I have not soaked it in transmission/acetone bath. Was concerned it could damage the nickel plating.
It is an HE model of 1905 with serial number 86831. Its marked 32WCF on the barrel. I tried to get it a bit smoother by backing out the spring retention screw, no help. I have not soaked it in transmission/acetone bath. Was concerned it could damage the nickel plating.
sigp220.45
US Veteran
Its funny you should post this now. I bought this .32/20 a couple of months ago and was so happy with the price I never even had Cabelas take off the lock dingus. It has the stiffest action I have ever felt on a Smith & Wesson.
I cleaned it really well, lubed it up, dry fired it a million times, and it is just now getting to be reasonable.
Maybe these guns just didn’t get shot much.
I cleaned it really well, lubed it up, dry fired it a million times, and it is just now getting to be reasonable.
Maybe these guns just didn’t get shot much.
Attachments
If the gun was reconditioned with new unused parts and one of the parts was the hand and it had not been fitted, this can heavy tigger pull.
If a new hand was used and not fitted this can cause heavy trigger pull.
OP
SA Trigger Release
I tried cocking the hammer with the cylinder open and the cylinder release pulled all the way back. SA was much softer although I realized how hard the hammer pull back really is. This calls for a complete breakdown and fitting. She's an old lady and needs gentle work with a micro file and polish. I do not like to remove metal from anything until it is absolutely necessary.
I tried cocking the hammer with the cylinder open and the cylinder release pulled all the way back. SA was much softer although I realized how hard the hammer pull back really is. This calls for a complete breakdown and fitting. She's an old lady and needs gentle work with a micro file and polish. I do not like to remove metal from anything until it is absolutely necessary.
Messing with sear angles and polishing moving parts is nothing I will ever try. An experienced hand is needed or a part can quickly become junk. How about getting it to a gunsmith that you trust. The Model 1905 did not change much over the last 100 years, so should not be hard to find a gunsmith that is qualified.
I remember a thread not too long ago. Where the main spring hooks were dragging on the frame, causing an issue similar to yours . That's easy enough to check with the side plate off.
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OP
Nickel Plating
I finally got around to completely taking this old S&W apart to see why she was so stiff and tight. I examined the trigger, hammer, and sear with the intent of stoning them with a light touch to improve trigger pull and ease of SA. I did just that, reassembled and it did not facilitate any improvement in any way. At about 2am this morning I had an epiphany, both the hammer and trigger are nickel or chrome plated. They are so hard as to be impossible to fit with anything less then a diamond micro file. My next move is to go to my parts stash and find a better trigger and hammer. I think plating changed the metrics and is a factor in performance. When I get the replacement hammer and trigger installed we will take her to the range for a "shakedown". I will post the results here!
I finally got around to completely taking this old S&W apart to see why she was so stiff and tight. I examined the trigger, hammer, and sear with the intent of stoning them with a light touch to improve trigger pull and ease of SA. I did just that, reassembled and it did not facilitate any improvement in any way. At about 2am this morning I had an epiphany, both the hammer and trigger are nickel or chrome plated. They are so hard as to be impossible to fit with anything less then a diamond micro file. My next move is to go to my parts stash and find a better trigger and hammer. I think plating changed the metrics and is a factor in performance. When I get the replacement hammer and trigger installed we will take her to the range for a "shakedown". I will post the results here!
OP
Success
After complete disassembly and trying several triggers and hammers to this old shooter, I found a solution with an old trigger with bushings that fit. I lost the trigger reset spring in a classic maneuver when I thought I had it covered with a rag. It hit me in the chest with a thud and bounced into NML! Never to be seen again. Lucky I had an extra one. The replacement trigger is smooth at let off in both SA and DA and the hard pull back of the hammer is gone. The new reset spring created a fresh problem, a sticky return trigger. However, oil and repeated working of the action appears to have solved the problem. Range visit is next!
After complete disassembly and trying several triggers and hammers to this old shooter, I found a solution with an old trigger with bushings that fit. I lost the trigger reset spring in a classic maneuver when I thought I had it covered with a rag. It hit me in the chest with a thud and bounced into NML! Never to be seen again. Lucky I had an extra one. The replacement trigger is smooth at let off in both SA and DA and the hard pull back of the hammer is gone. The new reset spring created a fresh problem, a sticky return trigger. However, oil and repeated working of the action appears to have solved the problem. Range visit is next!
Just yesterday I replaced springs in my 32 WCF, about 5 thousand sn lower than the OP's. After taking off sideplate discovered filthy innards. After cleaning, replaced the main spring and little one with the Wilson spring kit. Still strong trigger pulls, about half of what they were. SA is around 4 lbs., DA at 9 lbs. Going to work on it some more, try a couple different springs. Very stiff revolver, bought it recently, has been reblued.
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