Hard trigger? what hard trigger?

[HalfStack]

Today I went to the range with my Sigma 9mm as I got a box left in my stock. I had the gun put away because I CC my Sig 40 and I have no intention of selling the Sigma. Anyway I noticed that my trigger was really smooth and easy. Of course I had the pigtail spring out long ago but it was still pretty hard then.

I think it's because I put a glob of grease between the sear cam and the housing and it really slick it up. Easy to do, pull the slide off and push down the sear. Use a toothpick or something small enough to stick a glob of grease in between. Play with the trigger to spread it. Put some more in if you like.

So here's your tip of the year.

 

[stev32k]

What kind of grease do you use?

 

[HalfStack]

Hi temp lithium grease

 

[groundrat]

I'm definitely doing this. Thanks. I oil that spot everytime I clean it, but the lithium grease sounds like a better idea.

 

[NewGunGuy]

I gave up trying to master the 12 lb trigger. I removed the pigtail spring and replaced the outer spring with one off eBay. Worked great on reducing the pull to maybe 8 lbs, but now the trigger seems even more gritty. I am going to polish some more and try the the heavier grease. This feels more like the inner and outer springs are binding. I can't help jerking the trigger when it's this gritty.

 

[bruno2]

Mod. SW9VE & SW40VE Product codes? Put this in the bible!

Saf-T-trigger Variation, 2002.? Could this be your problem? Mod.SW9VE Product code120028 = Saf-T-trigger Variation,2002. ModSW40VEroduct code120022= Saf-T-trigger Variation,2002. Do you know your prod. code? Could be the reason for long hard T.P. I read so much about? Dont know if S&W. continued to install This feature& at what Prod.code # made changes? Put 2&2 together? No offense intended ! Just put 2&2 together?

 

[EvilBetty]

I shot mine for the first time today. Trigger measured at 8.5 pounds but I will be using this for a quick access defense gun. Trigger seems perfect for that. Groups were good enough for me.

 

[roker]

I gave up & bought a Glock 45! The trigger is sweet compared to my Sigma. Glock shoots dead on target. I could not get a good group with the Sigma due to the NY trigger pull which is horrific IMO. If only they had a Glock trigger replacement for it.

 

[NewGunGuy]

I took the sear back down and polished the cam and the spring slot. I discovered (low and behold) that the eBay sold spring that was supposed to be The same overall dimensions as the original is larger and is making contact. I didn't have any lithium grease handy so just oiled it well. The polishing and oil helped a little but will now be ordering a better fitting spring.

 

[J Rich]

Newguy

Look at the trigger link bar. See if the bar is rubbing on the on the sear bracket. If so bend the bar out away from the bracket a little. I have found it can cause some grit feeling.

 

[stev32k]

Newguy

Look at the trigger link bar. See if the bar is rubbing on the on the sear bracket. If so bend the bar out away from the bracket a little. I have found it can cause some grit feeling.

Glad you pointed that out. Mine was rubbing pretty hard against the frame. There were shiny rub marks on the link bar and the frame was scored. I tried bending it out a little and put a dab of grease on the rub.

It is definitely the source of the rubbing/grinding sound I hear when pulling the trigger. I am afraid to bend it enough to stop the rub - I've tried several times and am concerned about screwing it up. I think the grease helped, but the rub is still there.

 

[mawguy]

I have shot my Sigma enough that if it was ever "gritty" that is long gone. I love the trigger on my Sigma. My EDC is a Ruger SR9c, and while it is more concealable I wish it had the trigger the Sigma has instead of the Glock style with a manual safety. To be fair, the Ruger is a really good shooter and as I said, concealment is very good. I just like the DAO, heavy trigger on the SW40VE.

 

[J Rich]

You can also take the humps out of the inside of the frame.

 

[gejoslin]

grinding down the frame humps

You can also take the humps out of the inside of the frame.

I tried that and it worked for my sw40ve. Thanks for the tip!

 

[SP3]

I think it's because I put a glob of grease between the sear cam and the housing and it really slick it up. Easy to do, pull the slide off and push down the sear. Use a toothpick or something small enough to stick a glob of grease in between. Play with the trigger to spread it. Put some more in if you like.

So here's your tip of the year.

When I bought mine, I did a bunch of polishing to the usual areas to great effect. But, the thing that helped smooth the pull most was removing the mold line of the sear housing (inside). A wee bit of lube there as well and it was a like different gun.

As for removing the 'humps', those are there to lesson the friction with the bar. Removing them should increase the friction as now the bar is rubbing against more area. If you've found it feels better, I believe but, it would be a strange result none the less.

 

[stev32k]

When I bought mine, I did a bunch of polishing to the usual areas to great effect. But, the thing that helped smooth the pull most was removing the mold line of the sear housing (inside). A wee bit of lube there as well and it was a like different gun.

As for removing the 'humps', those are there to lesson the friction with the bar. Removing them should increase the friction as now the bar is rubbing against more area. If you've found it feels better, I believe but, it would be a strange result none the less.

Can you post a picture. I'm having a hard time understanding exactly where the mold line you refer to is found.

 

[J Rich]

As for removing the 'humps', those are there to lesson the friction with the bar. Removing them should increase the friction as now the bar is rubbing against more area. If you've found it feels better, I believe but, it would be a strange result none the less.

If the humps aren't there and the bar is straight. There is nothing for the bar to rub on therefore there is no friction.

 

[stev32k]

The link bar on mine only rubs where it turns 90 deg from the spring attachment point. The portion of the bar from the spring to the 90 is a few thousandths too long. The rest of the bar does not touch the frame.

If I hold the gun to my ear and work the trigger I can a rough sounding rub noise, but it does not seem to affect the trigger pull. The trigger is fairly hard but smooth. I put a little dab of grease in the rub area, but it still sounds rough. Maybe I'll just ignore it since it does not seem to have much, if any, impact on trigger operation.

 

[SP3]

Technically, I misspoke when calling the defect a 'mold line' as there in no seam there. What I removed was a spot in the plastic right where the ramp faces make the most contact. You can see in the pic where I took crocus cloth to it. I also polished most of the tooling marks out of the opposing ramp surface though it still needs a bit more work. This is where 98% of the grittiness comes from.

Too see for yourself, with the bottom end still assembled, push the trigger bar down so that it does not engage the pin of the sear assembly. Pull trigger. Nice smooth action. Now pinch the trigger bar against the side of the frame and pull the trigger (still keeping it disengaged from the pin). Pinch as hard as you like - still smooth with those ribs removed or as stock. Ribs not the problem.

Now, let everything engage as normal and pull the trigger. Unless you've done a lot of smoothing of the usual areas, now you'll feel the friction from the ramp faces. You can check this another way. With the sear assembly removed, but together, hold the assembly in one hand and press the pin back as it would be in the frame. You'll feel the friction/grittiness just as if the gun was fully assembled.

Another area that can use a bit of fettling is the groove/pin interface since the pin is also both pressing and sliding against the backside of the groove. A bit of a pain to get in there but still worth pursuing.

One thing I've forgotten to mention is that I don't use oils for lube. I use Labelle 106 grease. It's a white, plastic compatible grease with Teflon. I did use Break Free (nothing wrong with it) but the grease stays where you put it better/longer. I also think it is slipperier but have never tried to quantify the (my) perceived difference.

 

[cbr6864]

They should have made the sear housing out of metal not plastic. Metal against plastic is never a good idea.

Side note has anyone noticed their plastic housing starting to bow really bad where teh "pigtail spring" sits?