Have I messed up my 686?

[dixiedawg119]

Well, I'm a little worried that I made a mistake somewhere. I did a trigger job on my 686. Stoned some parts lightly and replaced the springs. Now when I pull the trigger double action, the hammer doesn't break over. Pulling the trigger just cycles the cylinder. When I pull the hammer back SA, it is almost resting on the frame and I have to squeeze the trigger unusually hard to get the hammer to fall. I have disassembled and reassembled several times. Can't figure it out. My best guess is that I removed too much material somewhere, even though I tried to be very conservative with the stone. Any other ideas?

 

[dixiedawg119]

Well, I'm a little worried that I made a mistake somewhere. I did a trigger job on my 686. Stoned some parts lightly and replaced the springs. Now when I pull the trigger double action, the hammer doesn't break over. Pulling the trigger just cycles the cylinder. When I pull the hammer back SA, it is almost resting on the frame and I have to squeeze the trigger unusually hard to get the hammer to fall. I have disassembled and reassembled several times. Can't figure it out. My best guess is that I removed too much material somewhere, even though I tried to be very conservative with the stone. Any other ideas?

 

[bountyhunter]

The best way to trouble shoot it is take off the sideplate, remove the mainspring, and pull the trigger slowly (hold gun horizontal so the left side is down).. Use very slight pressure against the rear of the hammer as you pull the trigger to keep the parts engaged.

The DA pull actually engages two systems: there is a flat area on the trigger which initially lifts against the DA sear and then about 1/3 of the way back, it hands off to a different part of the trigger lifting under the bottom of the "porch" at the very bottom of the hammer.

The DA sear is the sping loaded piece right at the very front of the hammer. The trigger lifts it from the bottom.

 

[bountyhunter]

Originally posted by dixiedawg119:
When I pull the hammer back SA, it is almost resting on the frame and I have to squeeze the trigger unusually hard to get the hammer to fall.

This is a blind guess, but it might indicate that the SA cocking sear's "porch" where the trigger nose normally locks into on an SA cocking motion is gone and you are cocking it far enough to catch the hammer nose under the bottom of the hammer?

I recommend highly buying the Kuhnahausen manual for SW revolvers.

 

[David LaPell]

Did you stone the single action notch? That single action ledge is very small, and nearly any stoning of it will ruin the hammer. With my trigger jobs, I don't touch the SA notch at all.

 

[dixiedawg119]

I tried not to touch any of the SA parts with the stone. If I did, it was by mistake. I hope to mess with it more tonight.

 

[tomcatt51]

We need a couple pics with the sideplate off and the hammer block removed to see if everything is there correctly. It the hammer doesn't come back when you pull the trigger DA it would make me think you left the sear out or it's spring or it's stuck somehow. Did you bob the hammer? The SA problem sounds like the hammer is coming back too far, past the SA sear surface.

 

[bountyhunter]

Originally posted by dixiedawg119:
I tried not to touch any of the SA parts with the stone. If I did, it was by mistake. I hope to mess with it more tonight.

If the sears are cut enough to cause misoperation, the gun should go back to SW. Before that, I recommend the Kuhnhausen shop manual for SW Revolvers because it has detailed pictures of what all the sear faces are supposed to look like and you could compare yours to them.


http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=314178



Theoretically, the SA sears could be recut and the parts rehardened, but that is for a gunsmith only or the gun could be dangerous (accidental hammer fall when cocked for example).

 

[dixiedawg119]

I'll see if I can get some pics up. I don't have a digital camera, but I'll borrow one.

I haven't bobbed the hammer. The hammer does come back when I pull the trigger DA, but it will not fall. It returns when the trigger returns.

 

[tomcatt51]

Did you add a trigger stop rod (inside the rebound spring)?

 

[dixiedawg119]

Originally posted by tomcatt51:
Did you add a trigger stop rod (inside the rebound spring)?

It actually came with one inside the rebound spring. At first I thought that might be the problem, like it might have been hanging up or something. But I've ruled that out b/c in SA the hammer is all the way back on the frame and in both DA and SA it seems that the trigger is contacting the rear of the trigger guard.

 

[tomcatt51]

Originally posted by dixiedawg119:

Originally posted by tomcatt51:
Did you add a trigger stop rod (inside the rebound spring)?

It actually came with one inside the rebound spring. At first I thought that might be the problem, like it might have been hanging up or something. But I've ruled that out b/c in SA the hammer is all the way back on the frame and in both DA and SA it seems that the trigger is contacting the rear of the trigger guard.

One end is rounded. It goes in first, in case someone set it up real tight.

 

[dixiedawg119]

Not sure if anyone goes back and reads these...

I never posted anymore on this topic after starting this thread. I started this thread right after I did the trigger job, and I didn't get a chance to work on it again for a while. I took it apart and reassembled it several times with the same unsatisfactory results. Finally, i tried turning the hand spring around. Turns out that the easy way to get it in there is the wrong way, and the right way to get it in is the hardest way. But I got it back together and it works flawlessly. There is a definite difference. All my autoloader friends tell me they don't like revo's cuz they are hard to shoot. Then I light them shoot mine, and they want a revolver. Trigger job, hogue grips, and night sights really make it a fun gun.

 

[Bruce51]

I keep this picture handy just in case. Bruce

Click on thumbnail for larger picture.