Heavy frame 22-32 Target Revolver?

[DKey]

I'm new to this Forum so please be some-what kind.

I have an older 22 revolver that I would grade at 90+ % original finish. I'm not sure I have the correct model of this pistol.
1- No model number, only production number
2- Serial Number on front of grip strap. #458XXX.
3-22LR CTG.
4-BBL. length 5.75 inches.
5-Hand ejector, Pre-war adj. rear sight.
6-Is a 5 screw frame counting the strain screw.
7- no Lanyard loop.

According to Original owner it was manufactured in 1925.

Can anyone on this forum confirm what this gun model is and when it was manufactured??

 

[TANZER]

22/32

Does it look like the attached ?
My SN 497XXX was manufactured in 1929.

 

[Hondo44]

DKey,

Welcome to our forum!

That's a beauty! You did your description very well, thx, and you got the Model name.

It is indeed a 22/32 Heavy Frame Target, the son of which became the 22/32 Target in 1930 and the grandson became the Model 35 c. 1957.
The barrel should be closer to 6".

It's actually a 6 screw counting the tension screw; a 5 screw counting the front trigger guard screw. Notice that Tanzer has shown two different guns. Take note of the ejector rod knobs; yours should have the 'mushroom' shaped knob like Tanzer's right gun. His gun on the left is probably the one he refers to as shipped in 1929. The 'barrel' shaped knob replaced the mushroom knob c. 1928. So I would agree yours was shipped in 1925.

 

[DKey]

Dear Jim

Thanks for the kind words. I have measured the barrel again and again, I can't even get 6 inches if I measure from the front of the cylander. What I do get is 5 3/4 inches from barrel extending almost to the cyl. to the very tip of the barrel ( the end with that little blade sight). This pistol is in almost new in box condition and I doubt it has fired mor than 50 rounds. I'm not a piostol nut but do have 2 others. First is a 22/32 Kit Stainless still in the box and a model 14-3, ser. #16k3XXX. This is a blue revolver that is deadly accurate with handloads.

I have a question about the Walnut stock on the 22/32 pistol. Mine does not have the S&W cartush embeded in the stock, however the Blue book of gun values says it should. Is this a replacement stock? I see others from this period don't have them either.

Thanks guys & gals, I look foreword to a great relationship with my new friends,

DKey

 

[Hondo44]

Hi DKey,

I would not worry about the barrel length if the front sight base is about 1/8" from the front of the muzzle. The length can vary somewhat, I just don't recall one being a 1/4" short before. But there's always the 1st time. If the front sight is flush with the muzzle, that's a first. It might have been dinged and repaired but I doubt it especially if the muzzle has the factory bluing.

The Blue Book is not a good source for details and is just too general. Notice Tanza's two guns above; neither stocks have medallions in the stocks which is correct from c.1920 to c.1930 so yours are correct. And to confirm, the back side of the right stock will have the serial # penciled on it. Do your stocks have one screw (standard stocks for that period) or the optional 2 screw target stocks like Tanza's?

 

[Masterpiece]

I would not worry about the barrel length if the front sight base is about 1/8" from the front of the muzzle. The length can vary somewhat, I just don't recall one being a 1/4" short before. But there's always the 1st time. If the front sight is flush with the muzzle, that's a first.

Do your stocks have one screw (standard stocks for that period)?

Hi DKey,

I've attached a couple quick photos for you to compare the Frt. Sight Boss Set-Back & Correct Muzzle Crown...also one of the Correct Single Screw Std. Stocks...that Jim(Hondo44) mentioned...from one of mine approx. the same period as yours...(Ser.No.364845)...the Revolver is All Matching including the Stocks!!

I also measured the Barrel Lengths of quite a few of mine & although they do vary somewhat...5 7/8"-5 15/16"...none measure as short as 5 3/4"!! Hope this helps!!

 

[Hondo44]

Tracy,

Great photos. That's an interesting specimen in beautiful shape. A transition example: RP stocks w/o medallions from the '20s and barrel ejector knob of the '30s. And optional bead sight which were standard pre 1923.

 

[Masterpiece]

A transition example: RP stocks w/o medallions from the '20s and barrel ejector knob of the '30s. And optional bead sight which were standard pre '20s!

Jim,

Glad to see you caught all that!! I never had it "Lettered" to find out when it did ship, but those "Transition" Features are actually why I've hung onto for as long as I have even though it isn't as mint as some .22/32 HFT's I've owned over the years!!

And even though I'm sure there are others out there with those "Transition" Features...It's also the only one I've ever personally seen that's All Matching with those Features..."Plus"...It's "Deadly Accurate" To Boot!!

 

[DKey]

Beautiful hot day again in Central Oregon , 95 degrees at 6M.

My 22/32 Target pistol has about that same 1/8 inch from sight base to end of bbl. also, has a 2 screw stock.

I took out my 6 inch rule and re-measured the barrel and again it is a perfect 5 3/4 inches. I just don't understand why I would have a one of a kind.

Thanks for everyones awsom help and information. I hate to get gushy but, I'm alm ost in love with you guys,

Dkey aka RustyBore.
465th Army Engineers, Ret.

 

[Hondo44]

DKey,

From your descriptions and measurements, I would not have a concern that the barrel is not original. I've seen just too many factory exceptions. I'm sure there are more 'out there' just like yours that we just haven't seen yet.

 

[flagman1776]

The barrel threads into the frame. If the barrel cylinder gap is excessive, the barrel can be turned in another turn. S & W Service center did so on my M19 years ago. It might even be done in initial fitting if the gap was out of spec. The rear face of the barrel would have been cut back also.

 

[alwaystrayding]

Grandfather's S&W Revolver

I'm trying to more closely date a S&W revolver that was handed down to me by my mother. It belonged to her father and he lived from 1887 to 1948. He married in 1914 and spent the majority of his life as a mechanic in Anderson, IN. My mother recalled he hunted rabbits with it. From my searching these threads, I believe it's a 22/32 heavy frame target pistol. In comparing it to other similar gun photos, it does not have "Made in USA" on the right side of frame and the trade mark logo does NOT say Reg US Pat Off. There is no number stamped on butt. Cylinders are not recessed. Serial number is 221XXX. Please let me know if there is other info needed to help date it. Not looking for an exact date, just a range of years. Thanks very much. Joe.

 

[Hondo44]

I'm trying to more closely date a S&W revolver that was handed down to me by my mother. It belonged to her father and he lived from 1887 to 1948. He married in 1914 and spent the majority of his life as a mechanic in Anderson, IN. My mother recalled he hunted rabbits with it. From my searching these threads, I believe it's a 22/32 heavy frame target pistol. In comparing it to other similar gun photos, it does not have "Made in USA" on the right side of frame and the trade mark logo does NOT say Reg US Pat Off. There is no number stamped on butt. Cylinders are not recessed. Serial number is 221XXX. Please let me know if there is other info needed to help date it. Not looking for an exact date, just a range of years. Thanks very much. Joe.

Hi Joe,

Welcome to the forum on your first post!

The normal procedure in those days when the grips cover the butt was to put the serial # on the forestrap of he grip frame. Is yours there?

With only the "Made in USA" stamp on the right side, it's indicated that your gun was made after mid 1922 when that stamp was 1st used. However that does not match your serial number which is normally associated with guns produced prior to 1917.

The 1st thing I suggest is to verify the # with good light and a magnifying glass. Also check the following six pre war locations to verify the gun has all matching numbered parts:

Gun butt - or forestrap on I frames with grips that cover the butt
Barrel - underneath
Yoke - on rear face visible thru a chamber with a flashlight
Extractor star - backside
Cylinder - rear face
Right stock – backside

Also, do the grips have one or two attaching screws?

Not to get too technical but just FYI, you don't have a pistol which has a chamber integral with the barrel, therefore only chambers one cartridge at a time like single shot or auto loader handguns; you have a revolver which chambers 6 cartridges in the cylinder all at the same time.

 

[JP@AK]

With only the "Made in USA" stamp on the right side, it's indicated that your gun was made after mid 1922 when that stamp was 1st used. However that does not match your serial number which is normally associated with guns produced prior to 1917.

Jim
Actually, he wrote, "it does not have 'Made in USA' on the right side of frame" (my emphasis). So, his number is consistent with what he sees on the frame.
Jack

 

[Hondo44]

Thanks Jack! Reading faster than I can think again.

It would be made between #208416 shipped in Jan. 1914 and before 1917.

 

[JSR III]

Joe, welcome to the forum. Just an FYI, in the future, you will get a better response if you open a new thread with your question. By adding your question/comments to an existing thread, you are likely to get fewer responses and therefore less information.

 

[alwaystrayding]

Thanks to everyone for all the good information so far. I'll look into these things. Yes, the serial number is stamped into the forestrap of the grip frame. It is correct that my gun doesn't have Made in USA on it. And the 1914 - 1917 date is certainly possible since that would have made my grandfather 27 to 30 at the time of purchase. I look forward to additional input and thanks for putting up with my first post. Joe.

 

[alwaystrayding]

More info on Grandfather's 22lr

Jim and Jack: Got out my magnifying glasses. The 221xxx serial number on the forestrap is duplicated on the rear of the cylinder and under the barrel (preceded with a capital B with some space before the number). My grips have two screw and I really don't want to take them off to very the number there. The checkering pattern is within what I'd call two tall ovals joined in the middle with a diamond around the center screw and point coming up around the bottom screw. All screws and logo insert are brass in color. There's another number on the two halves of the hinge on which the cylinder swings: The numbers are spaced out 5 5 9 2 but the nine is curly in appearance. Again, no made in USA on right side of frame and no Reg. Pat. Off with the S&W Trade Mark logo. Thanks for all of your help. Joe.

 

[Hondo44]

Joe,

Sounds like a completely righteous HFT heirloom!

 

[dinghysailer]

#225xxx shipped in the summer of 1915. Note that S&W didn't always ship in numerical order, but early 1915 would be a good guess.

Allan