Help---327Pd cylinder sticks

[Carbonizer]

I have a 327Pd purchased last month. The first 100 rounds thru it went fine both 38 spcl, and .357 mag fmj and Hornady critical defense, than last week while at the range I could not get the cylinder to open without tapping it on the side--smae loads.
When home I cleaned it well and it seemed like the small button on the back of the cylinder was sticking a little.
After it was cleaned the cylinder opened but still was sticking a little. Went to the range yesterday and after 24 shots 38 special and 16 shots .357 mag lead SWC the cylinder stuck again.
What to do???

 

[s&wchad]

Welcome to the forum.

It becomes difficult or impossible to open the cylinder if the ejector rod comes loose. They’re reverse threads, so lefty - tighty! Place fired cases in the chambers and use a drill chuck, not pliers to tighten it.

If that’s not it, phone S&W and have them send you a shipping label and let them figure it out and fix it.
I had trouble opening the cylinder of my 625-10 when the frame cracked. Good luck.

 

[Carbonizer]

Chad: Thanks, I checked the ejector rod and its tight, will call S&W.

 

[Grandpa Si]

I don't know how your problem was resolved, but I had a similar problem with a very old (1915) S&W Triple Lock .44 special. After a trip to the gunsmith the problem persisted. Turned out in may case it was just bad ammo. The bullet was creeping out of the crimp of the case from the recoil. In my case it took four rounds to cause enough creep for the remaining two bullets to jam. You could see the bullet pulled out from the case. The bullet creep meant that, as the cylinder revolved those bullets would hit up against the revolver frame. The lead bullet would deform into the frame edge and jam the cylinder. This was an ammo problem with Remington, when I switched ammo the problem went away.