(HELP) Avoid Ren Wax Pre Lim on Blued Finish

raylan007

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Just a heads up to the use of Renaissance Waxes (Pre Lim) product. I wanted to wax my Smith revolvers with a non abrasive polish or wax in this case that would not leave it with a nickle like shine but would enhance the finish, make it easier to clean, and eliminate finger prints. After a lot of research both here and elsewhere I elected to go with Ren Wax. I also purchased a small amount of a product they endorse for preparation prior to applying the Ren Wax as a final top coat. The Pre Lin is suppose to remove any grease or oils to lay a good foundation for the Ren Wax.
All sounded good so I went with both and applyed it to a SS revolver with no issues and just finished with my first blued revolver. Here is the problem which you can clearly see and in retrospect I should have seen. The Pre Lin being a tan color fills every etched piece on the revolver thus requiring you to clean it out with some type of solvent which as you can see I have yet to due so I could illustrate my point. I am sure the solvent will break down the wax in the process so I don't understand how this is suppose to work unless you stay away from every etched part of the revolver , not an option for me. So for me the Pre Lim experiment is over and the conclusion is to discontinue it's use. As far as the Ren Wax which is clear but drys to a white powder like surface I see the same potential problem.
If anyone out there can give me some tips I would appreciate it. It my well be by using just the Ren Wax it will not cause the dramatic painted like appearance in the etching. Thanks for the help in advance.
As you can see not much of an issue on the stainless M66-4 but on the M15-2 I was lucky enough to have just purchased I am more than a little disappointed.
 

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My tip would be not to use it. Plain old mineral spirits (aka paint thinner) works as well as anything for degreasing. Johnson's Paste Wax has been my choice for use on guns for many years. I have no experience with using Ren Wax, but do not see any possibility that it could do a better job than Johnson's.
 
I'm glad I didn't buy the Pre Lim when I bought my Ren wax now. As for Ren wax staying in the roll marks on the barrel, I haven't seen that at all on any of my pistols and that includes stainless, blue and nickel guns.

BTW, I used my Ren wax on an old Rossi 92SRC carbine I've been having since the 80's and man, did it shine that old rifle up. The wood especially too. That old Rossi has some of the prettiest wood for a stock I've ever seen on a cheap (at the time) gun and the Ren wax really brought out the figure and color!
 
I've used both products on blued guns.. I used the pre-lim on 2 or 3 guns and it did fill the rollmarks. I just got a fine toothbrush and brushed it out. Pretty sure compressed air would work well, too. The wax, on the other hand is really great !!
 
I've used both products on blued guns.. I used the pre-lim on 2 or 3 guns and it did fill the rollmarks. I just got a fine toothbrush and brushed it out. Pretty sure compressed air would work well, too. The wax, on the other hand is really great !!
Thanks for the toothbrush idea. I thought best to let it set up as it might come out in larger pieces that way. As for the Pre Lim as I stated I am done with it. I will still work with the Ren Wax as the results were super and very easy to work with. Also something to keep in mind, while it is on the expensive side, the 200 ml can at $20.00 will do countless guns. Thanks Again
 
This is what I have always done. I'm very happy with both products.

Kevin

I've used both products on blued guns.. I used the pre-lim on 2 or 3 guns and it did fill the rollmarks. I just got a fine toothbrush and brushed it out. Pretty sure compressed air would work well, too. The wax, on the other hand is really great !!
 
I've used Renaissance Wax on all my guns for years and I just did a normal cleaning before applying it. On guns with lots of oxidation I used 4(0000) steel wool and it removed the oxidation before I applied the Renaissance Wax and they looked great. I'm also a rare coin collector so I'm sensitive about damaging the surface of a guns finish and this doesn't as I've checked them with magnifying glasses. You just have to get the fine steel dust of off the finish before applying the wax.
 
I certainly have nothing to say against the Ren wax, as I've never tried it. But, just as DWalt said, Johnson's paste wax does a great job....for me as well. I also (sometimes) use a product called Briwax "natural creamed beeswax"....which is nothing more than pure beeswax with turpentine and linseed oil added. It works very well, too.
 
I have used Ren Wax on 3 revolvers, and there hasn't been any build-up or residue.
I haven't taken any special prelim steps either. I just cleaned the gun with regular old Hoppes and wiped it down with a clean cloth.
I applied the Ren Wax with my fingertip, let it dry, and wiped it off with a clean cloth.
I think the results speak for themselves. :cool:

I posted these pictures the other day.
A before and after on my 29-3.

Before:


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66ada62184084e6507196bebef2e01dc.jpg


After Ren Wax treatment:

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a27649030df767d4bbd157c173828197.jpg
 
Hi
I have used Both product's mentioned for year's with no issues what so ever. :confused: Pre-Lim will Lift off the super fine rust particles not seen with the naked eye, leaving behind a nice deep Luster to the gun's bluing surface. ;) The Trick to getting it out of the revolver's stamped lettering is using a Good Micro Polishing cloth, and applying some good old fashioned elbow grease while doing so, in the same fashion it takes to get the Wax off properly.;) In my eyes there is Nothing wrong with either product if it is applied right and taken off with some finese & Good old fashined effort in the Process. Regards, Hammerdown
 
I just use Ren Wax and not the Pre Lim. I was put off it not by the colour or residue that you have mentioned, but by the mild abrasive quality it purports to have!
 
ive used Johnson paste wax for years..........less expensive, readily available and works well on metal, wood, plastic............

rub a small amount on.....wipe it right off.............
 
I just use Ren Wax and not the Pre Lim. I was put off it not by the colour or residue that you have mentioned, but by the mild abrasive quality it purports to have!

What abrasive quality in Ren wax? I've not heard of any abrasives in the wax. Now the Pre Lim is supposed to have a very mild abrasive, but not Ren wax..
 
THANKS FOR THE HEADS UP, Raylan007. I HAVE ONLY USED THE WAX TO TRY TO PROTECT THE ALLEGEDLY FRAGILE FINISH ON MY 642 CARRY WEAPON. FOR THAT, IT SEEMS TO NE WORKING FINE. I WAS CONTEMPLATING USING THE WAX ON A FEW OLD BLUED COLT DIAMONDBACKS, SO THANKS TO THIS THREAD, I WILL KNOW WHAT TO EXPECT……...
 
I use Ren wax and I like it , but I have found Kiwi shoe polish neutral color works just as well, is cheap, and available every where.
 
I save my used Simi chrome rags to use on my blued guns. Using the Simi chrome polish first on the stainless or nickel finish takes the bite out of the Simi chrome polish. The blue luster is returned to the dulled bluing.
 
Hi
I have used Both product's mentioned for year's with no issues what so ever. :confused: Pre-Lim will Lift off the super fine rust particles not seen with the naked eye, leaving behind a nice deep Luster to the gun's bluing surface. ;) The Trick to getting it out of the revolver's stamped lettering is using a Good Micro Polishing cloth, and applying some good old fashioned elbow grease while doing so, in the same fashion it takes to get the Wax off properly.;) In my eyes there is Nothing wrong with either product if it is applied right and taken off with some finese & Good old fashined effort in the Process. Regards, Hammerdown
Good feedback but it isn't what they state as far as elbow grease being necessary, I found the removal of both items with a micro fiber cloth using a light buffing action to do the job with the exception of the Pre Lim in the barrel roll and the S&W logo, other than that I was very pleased with the results and will continue to use probably just the Ren Wax on blued revolvers and both on SS. Thanks
 
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