Help ID this revolver

[mustangtiger]

I inherited a S&W .32 break top with a white birdshead grip. It has a round barrel and does not have a hand ejector. It has a spur trigger and a hammer. I believe it is a 1 1/2 but don't know what issue. I would also like to know if anyone could tell me the year of manufact. The serial number on the butt of the grip is 40XX. Thank you.

 

[mustangtiger]

I inherited a S&W .32 break top with a white birdshead grip. It has a round barrel and does not have a hand ejector. It has a spur trigger and a hammer. I believe it is a 1 1/2 but don't know what issue. I would also like to know if anyone could tell me the year of manufact. The serial number on the butt of the grip is 40XX. Thank you.

 

[sigp220.45]

If you could post a picture, that would pretty much solve the mystery.

If not, can you describe any markings on the gun? What is written on top of the barrel?

 

[cflier]

The S&W you are describing is 32 single action. With a serial number in the 4000 range the strain screw for trigger adjustment should be an accentric screw on the grip frame under the grips instead of exposed on the front strap of the grip frame. With that serial number, I would guess that it was manufactured in 1878 or 1879. The only way to get the exact shipping date is to send $30 to Roy Jinks and get a factory letter. Is it a 3 or 3 1/2 inch barrel? Does it have any distinctive features such as a lanyard ring or extra long barrel? Most of the early 32 single actions had black hard rubber grips with no logo at the top. The white grips offered by S&W at that time were a speciaql order item and were either pearl or ivory. A factory letter would probably indicate the type of grips yours was shipped with. I say probably because the records from those early guns aren't always complete or easy to read.
Mark

 

[mustangtiger]

Guys here is a picture. I will try to post more pics and info later. Thanks for all the info so far. Have a great day.

 

[mustangtiger]

Hey guys,
one more thing. As you may or may not can tell, this gun has been painted. My dad, trying to keep it from rusting and probably not knowing that it would ruin the value, did this. However since it was my great-great grandfather's I still value it highly. My question is: Would you leave it like this or have it professionaly refinished, since the value is already ruined. I plan on putting it in a nice shadow box with some coins, etc... thanks again. have a good night.

 

[Deacon KC]

Hi MT, you can try this. Take the grips off and soak the whole gun in Pinesol overnight. You should then be able to use a soft nylon brush to remove the paint with out harming the bluing.

 

[mustangtiger]

Thanks Deacon. Has anyone else heard of doing this or does anyone not recommend it from past experiences etc... Thank you.

 

[Deacon KC]

MT this is an old trick for removing paint from small soft metal historical figures. Doesn't even harm lead based figures. It will even work on the suncorite coating the British used when refinishing SMLE rifles. Your's is a prime example of what can happen over the life of a fine firearm as it passes from one owner to another, treasure your legacy there, I hope it passes to your kids someday!

 

[mustangtiger]

Deacon,

Thanks again. I do hope someday to pass it down. Like I said above, valuable or not it is precious to me. I hope to try and get a letter for it soon. I'll let you know how it goes when I get around to trying it.

 

[mustangtiger]

Does anyone else have any recommendations for removing the paint without messing the rest of if too bad. Thank you.

 

[smith17]

mt:
If the paint is just on the cylinder, remove the cylinder and soak it only. The gun doesn't appear to have any finish left so it is doubtful if it will be hurt any further. Refinishing is your call but if you are bound to keep it, adding value will not be of a concern since you won't be looking to sell it.
Ed

 

[mustangtiger]

smith17,
Thanks. The gun is completely painted with a slick gun metal gray paint. I believe the cylinder is also painted, but yes, the whole thing, except for grip is painted.

 

[mikepriwer]

Without the grips, you will not hurt it by soaking it.

Bluing is actually a rusting process, so that is why the soaking will not hurt it -
the soaking will not go after rust. Blood will, but the soaking will not.

Later, Mike Priwer

 

[mustangtiger]

Thanks mike.

 

[Deacon KC]

Mike, thanks for the information on why blood is so hard on bluing. My Dad taught me a man should learn something new everyday.

 

[mustangtiger]

I'll try and make sure not to get blood on it then. Never heard of that before, but like you said, you learn something everyday. Thanks.

 

[digi-shots]

Mustangtiger, post some pics when you get it all done. I think it'll look good!

Since the subject came up...

Mike or DeaconKC... how can you tell the difference between blood pitting vs. regular ol' sweaty hands pitting?

 

[mustangtiger]

digi-,
I found these interesting posts on it.
http://www.thehighroad.org/archive/index.php/t-282769.html

 

[mustangtiger]

deacon,

What should I do once the paint is off, as far as getting the pine sol off. Rinse with water. That doesn't sound good, but maybe. Any ideas. Thanks again.