Help identifying a hand ejector

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Hey guys,
Obviously I didn't look to close when I picked this up yesterday, I thought and was told it was a model 10 .38 special. Now that I've actually looked at it I have no idea what model or caliber it is.

Any Help would be appreciated.

It's a hand ejector
Serial is V 355014
Looks like it had a lanyard or something at one point
5 screw
square butt
barrel measures 2 and 3/8 inches and is pinned
fixed notch sights
eagle claw hammer
mainspring screw
nickel finish

.38 special rounds load into the drum easily, seams the shell casing is a bit small, but they only insert about two thirds of the way. There is no caliber marked anywhere on the revolver, so any ideas there would be helpful too.

Another interesting thing is all the rods in the frame that the innards ride on are clearly pressed in, instead of the frame being machined out of one piece.

Thanks I'll try and get some pictures up too.
 
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You very probably have a WWII British Service Revolver, Victory Model (ca. 1943), with a chopped barrel. It is not a Model 10. If a .38 Special case cannot be fully inserted into the chambers, then it remains in its original caliber of .38 S&W, not .38 Special. If .38 Special cartridges can be completely inserted, then the chambers have been elongated. Pictures would help in a better ID. Also, barrels cut that short do not have the extractor rod support lug under the barrel. Such revolvers are just curios and have little value.
 
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Pictures attached.
 

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It is as I described previously, a chopped BSR which has also been plated. If, as you show, the .38 Special cartridges cannot be fully inserted, it remains in its original caliber of .38 S&W, and that is a bit unusual. That ammunition is not the easiest to find, but is available. One good thing about it is the grips it has. They are from the 1930s, therefore not original. Even though they are not in the best condition they are fairly desirable. If you got it for $200 or less you got a good buy, as you could probably sell the grips alone for up to $100.
 
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You very probably have a WWII British Service Revolver, Victory Model (ca. 1943), with a chopped barrel. It is not a Model 10. If a .38 Special case cannot be fully inserted into the chambers, then it remains in its original caliber of .38 S&W, not .38 Special. If .38 Special cartridges can be completely inserted, then the chambers have been elongated. Pictures would help in a better ID. Also, barrels cut that short do not have the extractor rod support lug under the barrel. Such revolvers are just curios and have little value.

Thanks DWalt,

I thinking it may have been a refinished Victory but the caliber confused me. I wasn't aware of the British ones or that they were made in .38 S&W. I'll have to see if I can track down some ammo. The casing length is the only difference between the two rounds?
(well besides chamber pressures energy velocity)
 
Thanks DWalt,

I thinking it may have been a refinished Victory but the caliber confused me. I wasn't aware of the British ones or that they were made in .38 S&W. I'll have to see if I can track down some ammo. The casing length is the only difference between the two rounds?
(well besides chamber pressures energy velocity)

The .38 S&W case is both shorter and fatter than the .38 Special case, and is ballistically weaker. It also uses a slightly larger diameter bullet.
 
it was closer to 300, I actually wanted another victory i had one with timing issues that I very much miss. I do wish it was in original condition, but revolvers are scarce around here so i don't get to be very picky. Ill have to find some ammo and give it a go, then I'll probably see if I can find another drum for it for .38 special
 
A big HELLO from the Wiregrass! If you want to shoot .38 Special, just have a gunsmith ream the cylinder chambers for the longer length. Be advised that .38 Special casings will swell and may crack open when fired. Also, Power Custom makes a yoke ball detent kit that appears very easy to install. They have a YouTube video on how to install the detent. That will stabilize the front of the cylinder with a positive lockup.
 
it was closer to 300, I actually wanted another victory i had one with timing issues that I very much miss. I do wish it was in original condition, but revolvers are scarce around here so i don't get to be very picky. Ill have to find some ammo and give it a go, then I'll probably see if I can find another drum for it for .38 special

If you get another "drum" (properly called a "cylinder"), it may well need some skilled fitting to work properly. Also, a .38 Special barrel has a groove diameter of .357. The gun you have is probably .361 or thereabouts. Accuracy will likely suffer with the smaller bullet.
 
Thanks Wiregrassguy, good info I'll look into that detent kit. Not being a reloader I may have to go that route to shoot it at all.
 
Thanks epj, that's what I was wondering. Appreciate the reminder on the cylinder too, using the right words avoids confusion.
 
.38 S&W ammo may not be readily available in nearby stores, but it is easily found on the net. Here's a link to an ammo locator website that I use a lot to find the best ammo deals. While .38 S&W is not what I would call cheap, it is also not that expensive, obtainable for under $20 a box of 50.
.38 S&W ammo handgun
Hope this helps.
 
If you plan to shoot it much, it will probably be more cost effective to take up reloading on a limited scale (i.e., buy some used equipment from eBay) than trying to swap cylinders or rebore the chambers on it . You can use .357" lead bullets for reloading with no problems. I use .38 Super reloading dies for .38 S&W. Brass is readily available. Don't throw good money after bad.

There are internet sources for .38 S&W ammo, but with shipping added in, and unless you buy in large quantity, it will be expensive. Likewise, some dealers may be willing to special order it for you, but that will also be expensive.
 
Thanks DWalt,

I thinking it may have been a refinished Victory but the caliber confused me. I wasn't aware of the British ones or that they were made in .38 S&W. I'll have to see if I can track down some ammo. The casing length is the only difference between the two rounds?
(well besides chamber pressures energy velocity)
My local Cabelas stocks the .38 S&W ammo
 
Thanks, it probably would be a good Idea for me to start reloading, save me slot on my other ammo too.
 
MagTech is a source of 38 S&W. I have a Regulation Police, and that is the caliber it is chambered in.
 

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