HELP me Pick My First S&W 686

[gmcjetpilot]

I want my first revolver to be a S&W 686, 357 magnum. Need help on how to get a nice one. What to look for. What to stay away from. Thinking 4" or 6". No plan on carrying it. Opinions? Is 3" OK. I want it to not beat my hand with 357 at the range, but then again I don't plan on using it as range gun a lot. If I do, I will shoot mostly 38 spl for fun and economy. It would be for home defense, so I will shoot some 357, but mostly to enjoy. I shot a friends Ruger Speed/Security Six with full SD 357 rounds. My hand felt it after 6 rounds. Is one 686 model more a collector item? I am a Newbie so excuse my lack of S&W knowledge and history. I have a lot of guns, just no revolver. I like the 357 round, and a big frame gun with 38 spl SA is a joy to shoot. I am thinking a PLUS 7 round is the way to go, but 6 shots is not a show stopper.

Looking at Wiki I see the following dash numbers. Not sure of the differences below. Any help about the 686 would be great.

686 no dash, introduced model
686-1, 1986, radius stud package, floating hand
686-2, 1987, changed hammer nose, bushing and associated parts
686-3, 1988, new yoke retention system
686-4, 1993, change rear sight leaf, drill and tap frame, change extractor, Hogue grips
686-5, 1997, change frame design to eliminate cylinder stop stud, eliminate serrated tangs, change to metal injection molded (MIM) hammer with floating firing pin, change to MIM trigger, change internal lockwork
686-6, 2001, internal lock

 

[bigwheelzip]

Welcome to the forum.

There are many schools of thought about your quest.

First and foremost to a large percentage of forum members, is avoidance of the internal lock (IL). That would be pre -5. I have a few 686+'s with IL's and have no issues.
A 3" or 4" length is a good multi-purpose, utility length.

 

[joe44va]

My favorite 357 is my 686SSR.

 

[Engine49guy]

There really isn't enough information supplied to determine which of all the different versions might be "Best" for you with the supplied information because it depends on what your primary focus is...
IMO the 3" snubs seem to sell for more than the 2.5" and 4" versions and the longer versions seem to sell for less if that helps..
If you are a collector perhaps an early LNIB 686 might top the list but the L frame .357 improved with time hitting its Zenith in the 686-4 (plus) model with the 7 shot cylinder IMO.

An alternate take is the pre IL 686-5 (+) Mountain gun with new internal firing pin as it is the only pre IL 7 shot MG.

Early 2.5" snub 686 (no dash) versions are also becoming collectible .

 

[lhump1961]

Just off the cuff I'd say your looking for a 4". If you aren't a "Smith revolver" guy I wouldn't worry too much about all the engineering changes over the years and go with whichever one you can get a good buy on...they'll all do their job.

 

[hkcavalier]

The -4 is generally considered the best all around, though the older ones will have the chromed hammers and triggers.

I think the -4 Plus model is the one to go after, and I ended up with a 6".

The 4" barrel will probably balance the best for you. 6" is muzzle heavy but definitely helps with .357 158s and heavier. 3" is pretty snappy with .357s.

 

[rwsmith]

A few things....

I have a 6". it's a tad nose heavy but for shooting, it's great.

I'd say 3" to 5" would be about ideal

I have a 686 no dash. That means it should be sent back for the firing pin/bushing modification to keep it from locking up due to primer flow around the pin. I haven't bothered to send mine back. It works great.

 

[Neely52]

Well I bought a new 4" - 6 shot 686 and could not be more pleased.
I have shot over 1K rounds through it and it is a joy to shoot.
I like 4" as they balance so much better for me.

 

[AlHunt]

It sounds like you're a little recoil averse. I'd think if you can get your hands on a 6" version to shoot, you'd be right at home.

For ME, for a gun you're not wanting to conceal, the 6" -4 PLUS is the sweet spot. Good range gun, good HD gun, drilled and tapped for a scope should you decide to hunt with it, the long barrel and full underlug really tame the recoil. But that's just me.

 

[BAM-BAM]

Given your "intended uses" ......... range and home defense and no intent to carry........ don't overlook the 586...... blue steel version of the 686.

I've accumulated several 686/586s over the years.................strangely more 586s all in great shape (anib) and they were cheaper than 686s................

IMO a 4" 686 is the best general use/utility .357 going........ as a traditionalist I like pre-lock pre-MIM and the firing pin firmly attached to the hammer...... so -4 or earlier.......

 

[rwsmith]

You DON'T HAVE TO SHOOT.....

you don't have to shoot full powder loads constantly. I start off with .38 target wadcutter loads then shoot some warmer stuff. Then break out the magnum loads and for a grand finish I let off a few cylinders of 'hot ones' that I will remember for a few days. One thing about the .357 is the amazing VERSATILITY.

 

[ultratec00]

I have a Bangor Punta era 586 6" and recently picked up a 686-6 Talo in 5". The Talo turned out really well. Dropped in a Miculek spring kit, Apex firing pin, and installed Ameriglo night sights. Good thing about Smiths, doesn't take much to make them smooth as butter. Very happy with mine.

 

[apollo99]

-3 or -4 the pinnacle of the 686 lot.

 

[Lou_the_welder]

+1 for a 6" 686 or 586

4" in a K frame for me!

 

[Mr.Harry]

I'm looking at the same gun myself. I think 4 inch is The One. i don't enjoy shooting 357 mag snubs or anything under that length. Nor am I accurate with them at anything but in-your-face-range, which to me just isn't enough range to justify buying that model gun. I prefer to be able to 'reach out' at least a little. My definition of 'littlle' is 20 yards or so. I just don't do well with shorter barrels at that distance. I really like 6" barrels, which are even better for the range, and distance accuracy, and eating up recoil, but maybe not best choice for home defense. I don't care about the lock at all, BUT if I saw a -4 with the best of the upgrades & without the lock, I'd be pretty happy to buy it. At the same time, I wouldn't dilly dally around shopping for a 'unicorn' if I could hold, inspect, and purchase a current production model. Bird in hand better than....

 

[S&W1006]

I have 2 686 revolvers. A 5" Talo with the unfluted cylinder that is a 7 shot. I also have a 686 SSR. Both have the lock and MIM parts and guess what they work just fine. There is nothing wrong with MIM parts. I don't care for the lock but I ignore it and doesn't cause any problems. In fact 4 of my revolvers have MIM parts and locks and they all get shot a lot and they work just fine.
For home defense I would go with the 4". The 6" will be more pleasant to shoot with magnums but the 4" isn't bad if you have good grips. A 3" isn't a bad choice if ever think you might want to carry it but would also work great for home defense.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

 

[DD357]

4" -4 or older.

 

[Browns fan]

find a 4 inch dash -3 THE 686

 

[ripvanwinkle]

I purchased a 4 inch 686-6 and am very pleased. I have a 6 inch Python and I prefer the better balance of the Smith. I did not like the grips that came with it and made my own. I am a wood and leather type of guy. If you are recoil sensitive examine how you grip the weapon and how it fits your hand. Even Jerry Miculek said the rubber grips only fit a small percentage of the shooters.

 

[SLT223]

Can't go wrong with a 4" 7 shot. If you can't find a dash 4 at a decent value, just get a new one.