Help me save my brass

butcher1

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OK, so I load 45 ACP for 1911 style autos,tired of chasing and losing brass. I own several Smith's in 357, 38 and 22. Looking for a 45 ACP revolver. I see the 625's and 25's and am looking at a 25 here locally. I've read that some revolvers are better with lead than others, any comment on this statement? If you're gonna shoot 45 ACP SWC, what Smith do you buy?
Thanks for the help.

Lee
 
You answered your own question.:)

A 625 or the JM 625.

I built myself a brass catcher net to catch all my brass in any caliber. It will snag at least 90% of them. (with the exception of ,380, they go into another county:)) I also use a colored sharpie and mark the bottom of my brass so the ones I pick up I know are mine.

If you have the money:

http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...57775_757751_757751_ProductDisplayErrorView_Y
 
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I'd go with the 25's myself, but that's preference.

The blue guns don't looks as bad when dirty from a full day's range session, and are easy to clean up.

I did have a problem with a 625 5" where the cylinder stops galled up when shooting it a lot double action- it had to have had a cylinder a bit out of hardness specs, as S&W replaced the cylinder. One of the few I traded off- and I think it was a fluke. I do like my 25, especially since I don't have target sights on it. :)
 
laying a tarp out works nicely

and given the various creakiness of my collection of antique body parts....sometimes it's worth just buying a bag or 2 of range brass...

Local recent prices I've seen go from .03/9mm to .065/45acp. Sometimes I get the 'once fired' stuff.

Somehow I got ahead of the curve on brass....perhaps because I prefer revolvers about 90% of the time.

I don't care for any SWC 45 acp I've ever tried in my bottom feeders, in any weight. There's always some kind of feeding or POA/POI issue.

230 gr RN cast or FMJ is what gawd had in mind when she invented shot & shell, IMHO.

I've got one Commander that absolutely refuses to shoot POA with 230RN. I spent a lot of time & effort trying to find a way to deal with that fixed-sight issue. Finally found a 200 gr load that works just fine for it.

My 625-8 seems to like anything I put in it...except one lot of cast boolits left it choked with heavy leading each time. Finally got rid of that lot and now no problems.
 
OK, so I load 45 ACP for 1911 style autos,tired of chasing and losing brass. I own several Smith's in 357, 38 and 22. Looking for a 45 ACP revolver. I see the 625's and 25's and am looking at a 25 here locally. I've read that some revolvers are better with lead than others, any comment on this statement? If you're gonna shoot 45 ACP SWC, what Smith do you buy?
Thanks for the help.

Lee

The only thing I know about being better with lead is the older style rifling than the newer EDM rifling. There are a few threads talking about this with some good pictures. The newer rifling is rounded in appearance while the older is sharper and taller. The newer looks very comparable to the rifling found in Glock barrels. The older will look raised, square, and sharp edged.
 
I don't care for any SWC 45 acp I've ever tried in my bottom feeders, in any weight. There's always some kind of feeding or POA/POI issue.

230 gr RN cast or FMJ is what gawd had in mind when she invented shot & shell, IMHO.

That's the route I took also. I could get the SWC to feed in say one gun but then at to adjust the OAL to feed in another. A real PITA for what?? The RN bullet makes perfectly fine holes in paper for me.:) I can load one batch and they feed in every 45 auto.
 
I've loaded the Missouri Bullet IDP #1 with no problem out of my 1911,s. Yeah, I've used the tarp a lot but the indoor ranges look at ya kinda funny when you spread it out.
I have to see what this 25 looks like, probably won't get to see it till next week sometime. Yep, I like blue, but the JM 625 is a nice lookin piece.

Lee
 
I just use plated bullets in my M1950. I accidently put a scratch on it trying to get lead out. :eek:

For bottom feeders I just use a light target load for targets. The brass doesn't fly very far. I also try to get a lane next to the wall on my right.

I found a load for the wife's 9mm that shoots a good percentage of the brass right into the little brass pocket built into the barrier. :D
 
I've read that some revolvers are better with lead than others, any comment on this statement? If you're gonna shoot 45 ACP SWC, what Smith do you buy?
Some folks don't like the newer EDM rifling for use with lead bullets. I'm not sure exactly when S&W began using this manufacturing technique and the Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson does not mention it in the engineering changes for any models. That said, I've heard the change to EDM occurred in the mid-nineties (perhaps someone can confirm this). So, a 625-3 or older gun should have broach cut rifling. A 25-8 or older gun should have broach cut rifling, too. Also, according to S&W, a brand new Performance Center 625 uses "Deep Cut Broached Rifling," while the 625JM and 625-8 appear to use the EDM rifling.

If you shoot a lot of lead, it might be wise to seek out a broach cut rifling model.
 
Some folks don't like the newer EDM rifling for use with lead bullets. I'm not sure exactly when S&W began using this manufacturing technique and the Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson does not mention it in the engineering changes for any models. That said, I've heard the change to EDM occurred in the mid-nineties (perhaps someone can confirm this). So, a 625-3 or older gun should have broach cut rifling. A 25-8 or older gun should have broach cut rifling, too. Also, according to S&W, a brand new Performance Center 625 uses "Deep Cut Broached Rifling," while the 625JM and 625-8 appear to use the EDM rifling.

If you shoot a lot of lead, it might be wise to seek out a broach cut rifling model.

Oh great. Another new gun to start saving for;). I had actually be comparing the 625 JM, the 325 TR, and the 625 PC. The 625 PC and an addition Plug purchase are now in my future. My thanks go to the OP foe starting this thread that lead to these answers.
 
47D, I thank you for that. This is the info I'm trying to find as I do intend for this to be a WC only gun. I didn't think of the rifling as a factor.
Maximumbob, you are very welcome, just doing my part to contribute to the forum as other members have done for me in the past.
S&w 41
S&W 10-8
S&w 586
S&W 28-2
S&W 637, and still looking.

Lee
 
To a bit more specific, with the 625 there are currently 2 different types of rifling in use. If you look at the web page for the 625PC you'll see that they specifically state is has "deep cut Broached rifling". As for the 625JM, mine was test fired 8-10-2011 and features the newer ECM rifling, so it's probably safe to assume that all of the current production of the 625JM will feature ECM rifling. Based on my experience with the ECM rifling I would not recomend using anything but jacketed ammunition in these barrels.

As for why, my model 620 features a tensioned barrel with ECM rifling and I tried it once with some cheap Blazer LRN because I wanted to test for reliable ignition function during a period when I was experimenting with lightening the DA trigger. Since CCI has a reputation for "hard" primers I felt that Blazer would serve to test for ignition reliability. Just 50 rounds of that nasty ammo cost me about 10 hours of barrel scrubbing and the leading was so severe I was concerned it could produce a squib with a full power 38 spl. In plain english the barrel was a total mess from forcing cone to muzzle.

Now on a positive note in regards to the newer ECM rifling, IMO the benefits are twofold.

One is the accuracy, IMO they are more accurate. However, that's simply an opinion. What I can state for a fact is that all 3 of my revolvers with ECM rifling produce accuracy that is only limited by my ability on that particular day. Today was another example of this, kept getting teased with 3 shot strings that spanned under 1.25 inch with my 625 but could not get one single cylinder under 3 inches including the flyers. Ended up with a 4 inch hole in the target at 25 yards resulting from 3 cylinders shot from a rest.

The second benefit is that they feature a much smoother surface finish than the older broached rifled barrels exhibit and I suspect that means they'll produce a bit more velocity when shooting jackted ammo. BTW, this is simply a hunch based on the surface finish. However, it happens I have an older 67-1 with a Barrel/Cylinder gap that is a dead match for that in my 620 and one day plan on purchasing a chronograph just to see if there is any difference between the two shooting jacketed ammunition.

As for the cost difference, the 625PC will run about 100 dollars more than the 625JM out the door. For my 625JM the total cost with taxes was 890 and change, so figure about a grand for the 625PC. IMO you'll also need to factor in the potential for new grips, I wasn't real impressed with the fit of the grip on the 625JM in my hand and the 625PC uses a similar profile with what I consider a gaudy color scheme.

You'll also need some tools for loading moon clips if you use the steel clips, they can be a real bugger to load by hand, especially that last round. Good news is I've now run 180 rounds downrange with my new 625JM without any cleaning and rounds loaded loose can be shaken free or snagged out with a fingernail. One huge advantage with shooting with clips is that you can load up a bunch at home, take the ammo to the range and do nothing but swap empties for loaded, then you bring the fired casings home still in the clips. This means you never lose a single casing unless you forget to pack a clip home. BTW, the American Eagle 45ACP boxes are sized perfectly to hold 8 loaded clips, so I would recomend purchasing some of this particular brand from time to time, most others will only hold 6 or 7 clips.

If you are interested in the 625JM you may want to look at my report on my latest revolver. Following is a link to that. I should also warn you that wheelguns can be addicting, I am quite certain the 625 won't be my last new revolver, it's only the most recent. Mine als shipped with a couple of issues, one which was easy for me to fix and one that will require warranty service. The good news is that S&W has a sterling silver reputation for customer service so I have no doubt it will get corrected.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-re...e-interested-625jm-updated-renge-results.html
 
I have two 625's (a 5" 625-6 and a 4" 625-8 JM Special). Neither of them has had anything but lead bullets fired in them (my own cast, of course) and they are TERRIFIC with lead.

Either of them will shoot under 1" at 25 yards off a rest with a variety of bullet weights and styles. I have three friends who also have 625 JM Specials and they ALL shoot lead extremely well.

Don't believe the naysayers. These new Smiths are as good as they get.

Dale53
 
Here in Louisiana we used moskito netting with spring clamps. The netting came from a local army and navy store and the spring clamps that look something like a big clothspin came from home depot. Strect the netting as far and as wide, clamp in place and put the ends of the in a 5 gal bucket and just about all end up in the bucket. Frank
 
I have a 25-2 and I use full moon clips and I have a tool for loading and unloading them. I usually load about 200 rounds in moon clips and take them to the range in an ammo can. No more chasing brass all over the place and the 25-2 is accurate and a blast to shoot.
 
I don't know about saving my own brASS but for saving everybody elses I use a trash grabber---sure helps an old, worn out back and knees.
Blessings
 
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