Help verifying my Model 10-5 and tips on restoration.

[Cubs249]

Hello I'm brand new to the forum but have already learned a bit from other people's posts. I would like to verify that I have a Model 10-5 4-screw revolver. I'd love to know when it was made and am looking for pointers on how to do an arm's length restoration on my revolver. I rescued it from a local pawn shop looking terrible with rust, pitting, and damaged grips.

Model number: 10-5
Serial Number: C 359xxx
Finish: Blued
Caliber: .38 Special
Barrel Length: 4"
Screw Count: 4
Strain Screw: Yes

 

[BC38]

You have a well used, but (hopefully) NOT abused, Model 10 - the most common of all S&W 38 Special revolvers.

Assuming it is in good mechanical condition (timing, lock-up, etc.) you and your children, and your and grandchildren should be able to shoot this revolver for generations.

In terms of an "arms-length restoration", IMO, anything more than a good cleaning and maybe a cold-blue touch-up would cost more than any value it would add to the revolver.

So basically, you have a GREAT "shooter-grade" revolver, and it should be treated as such. It isn't and never will be a collectable, so, take it out and shoot it to your heart's content.

JMO, and welcome to the Big Blue forum - the BEST source on the internet for all things S&W!

 

[alwslate]

If your idea of restoration includes having it re blued realize that you will have more money in it that you will ever be able to get out of it.

 

[JP@AK]

First, welcome to the S&W Forum, Cubs249.

What makes you think it is a Model 10-5? Frankly, it cannot be any such thing. Here's why:
1. C3590xx is much too low a number for any Model 10, let alone a dash 5. That number points to production in 1956.
2. The threads on the extractor rod are right hand threads. Those changed to left hand threads in 1961, a year prior to the advent of the Model 10-5 and about five years after your revolver was serialized.
3. The fourth screw was eliminated in 1962, with the advent of the Model 10-4. No dash 5 units had four screws.

From what I see here, you have a .38 Military & Police revolver from the mid-1950s that will not have a model mark. It isn't a Model 10 anything. It is simply an M&P.

Open the cylinder and look on the frame in the yoke cut. You won't find MOD 10 stamped there, let alone MOD 10-5.

 

[s&wchad]

Edit: Jack beat me to it.

Welcome aboard!
You have a .38 Military & Police revolver with a 4-screw frame, but it's not a model 10-5. Your serial number dates to about 1956, which was before model numbers were assigned and stamped in the yoke cut.

 

[Baxter6551]

Welcome from CT. As others have noted a great shooter. Mine sure is - it’s a 10-5. Finish was really rough like that I had it parkerized.

 

[JP@AK]

I had it parkerized.

You also changed out the thumbpiece.

 

[max503]

I'd love to find something like that.
The closest thing to it that I have is a Taurus 605. It's nice to have a bullet-proof gun that works well that you can shoot the heck out of.
I have a Dillion SDB progressive to feed it. Heck yes. Scrounge range scrap, melt and cast it into boolits, load 'em up and choot 'em. No better way to sharpen your shooting skills. And you got just the gun for it.

 

[murphydog]

You have a few alternatives given its current status.

Inspect/repair, clean and enjoy. The least expensive.

An aftermarket refinish (Parkerizing, hard chrome, Cerakote) and refurbishing the stocks. Good alternatives but would not appear factory. Relatively inexpensive.

A full factory-level refinish. Don't know if you have the equipment and skills personally, but even if so it will be time- and labor intensive, and paying for it to be done will easily cost the gun's value and then some.

Good luck in your decision.

 

[ken158]

Well, the folks responding have been kind but also accurate. You do not have a 10-5. What makes you think you do? Your gun has seen a hard life and was obviously carried in a right hand holster noted by the grip damage. The finish and pitting were likely caused by being wet in a leather holster. The gun was not cared for by any previous owners which suggest a security company, maybe a prison or even an armored truck detail? A total tear down with internals cleaned and a good blasting and perhaps cerakote or parkerizing will make the gun as good as it is gonna get. My belief is that you will have much more invested than your M&P will ever be worth.

 

[s&wchad]

Second photo in the original post shows a three-screw revolver.

The large sideplate screw below the hammer was on 5-screw frames. His gun lacks that screw, but it still has the screw in the front of the trigger guard, which makes it a 4-screw.

 

[Bald1]

I’d rub it lightly with oil and 0000 steel wool. Then blast with brake cleaner and lube. Pick up some cheap magnas on eBay or even here on this forum. Call it good and go shoot……..OP probably thinks it’s a 10-5 because the pawn shop had it labeled as such.

 

[jmiles1960]

Welcome to the forum! There are several videos on YouTube regarding disassembly / re-assembly of this model. Cleaning the parts with brake cleaner, Hoppe's, etc. would do wonders for restoring this piece. Good luck and feel free to ask any questions here. Lots of excellent talent and experience.

 

[Baxter6551]

I had a very finish worn ex police model 10 bead blasted then reblued. It’s not a matte finish blue kind of like a model 28 now.

 

[Hawg Rider]

Welcome to the Forum! You purchased a 4-screw .38 M&P revolver in pretty rough shape...I hope you didn't pay the pawn shop too much for it. As others have said, there were millions of these revolvers manufactured over the years, they are very common, and they usually don't bring big $. However, they have a reputation for being accurate and dependable shooters. In your case, minimal restoration is probably the way to go. A thorough cleaning (barrel bore, internals, frame) is in order. You may want to try to do a very light polish job with some Flitz Polish and a microfiber cloth, and follow with some Renaissance Wax (or Johnson's Paste Wax). The wood stocks are basically worn out, but since they have matching s/n it may be worth spending a little time stripping and refinishing them (if you're a DIY guy). You can also easily pick up a set of replacement stocks (wood, rubber, composite, etc.). Good luck with your restoration!

 

[Retired W4]

I'm just wondering now, but the OP shows the gun with the side plate off and the sliding hammer block not there, so was it in there when the plate came off?

 

[Slufstuff]

Honestly, the ugly grips bother me more than the blue wear. If it were mine, I would clean it thoroughly, buy a pair of used magnas off ebay, then maybe some touch up cold bluing if you felt inclined (I am not normally a cold blue fan, but it cannot hurt in this case).

 

[Jim Watson]

I agree, the steel doesn't look bad considered as a used gun of that age.
The grips are much worn, looks like they were painted black. But they are numbered, presumably to match after the 359XXX nonsense.

 

[ImprovedModel56Fan]

The large sideplate screw below the hammer was on 5-screw frames. His gun lacks that screw, but it still has the screw in the front of the trigger guard, which makes it a 4-screw.

Quite true, of course, which I realized almost immediately, but not as fast as you did. I guess 1962 was the time of the change.

 

[gmborkovic]

Once and for all, can we get off the steel wool. We are not cleaning a Weber grill. Just bronze wool! Please save the steel wool for an old car
bumper.