Help with 1902 date

Daniel Howe

US Veteran
Joined
Mar 26, 2019
Messages
512
Reaction score
961
City & State/Province
Marshall, MI
Can you give me an estimate on a date for my 1902? I suspect it is a 1st change. Serial number 21084 on butt and cylinder but thats the only places I find it. Original cylinder (.38 Special) is worn so bad it won't lock up. Replaced with a Model 10 (.38 Special) cylinder. Does that mean its ok for +P now? I know the grips are wrong too but I can't find the right ones.

Curious how old this old mutt is, functions really nice now but its ugly. :)
 

Attachments

  • 1902 - 1.jpg
    1902 - 1.jpg
    135.1 KB
  • New 1.jpg
    New 1.jpg
    150.6 KB
  • New 2.jpg
    New 2.jpg
    122.6 KB
1903 is likely. The barrel profile (straight from muzzle to frame, no bell expansion where it meets the frame) means it is not a first change.

I would never shoot anything heavier than low pressure wadcutter ammo or the equivalent handload in that.
 
. . . Original cylinder (.38 Special) is worn so bad it won't lock up. Replaced with a Model 10 (.38 Special) cylinder. Does that mean its ok for +P now? . . .

Your thread post really needs an emoji after the +P comment unless you want many replies and warnings.:D:D:D:D

As David states, not a 1st Model. That means that the very early revolvers from this model were actually called 38 Hand Ejector, Military & Police, 2nd Model (1902). The 1st Model, also called the Model 1899, lacked the forward ejector rod lug on the barrel. One example, 21,8XX shipped in 1902, and this model started with serial number 20,978 and would have been manufactured in 1902.

A set of worn K frame hard rubber stocks would be a fine match to the revolver and can be bought on ebay for cheap.
 
Which parts did you replace ? Any parts of the extractor rod, or the extractor star ? Or, to put it the other way, which parts from the old cylinder were you able to reuse with the replacement cylinder ? It looks like you used the original extractor rod, because of the large nob on the end of it. Presumably you used the lower half of the extractor rod as well, because the threads for those two parts changed in 1903.

I find this very interesting, because there has been several changes to the cylinder assembly from 1902 to a Model 10.

Regards, Mike Priwer
 
I find this very interesting, because there has been several changes to the cylinder assembly from 1902 to a Model 10.

Regards, Mike Priwer

The knob was missing so that is new. As for the cylinder... there was two "locator" pins I had to remove. And the points of the extractor star had to be filed back/shorter. The gas check stuck out too far and was filed back also. All other parts are original.
 
The knob was missing so that is new. As for the cylinder... there was two "locator" pins I had to remove. And the points of the extractor star had to be filed back/shorter. The gas check stuck out too far and was filed back also. All other parts are original.

Over the years, my old college buddy tennexplorer, who is also a forum member, have swapped new parts into old S&Ws to keep them running. Back in the '70s, I fitted a smooth .312" Ranger trigger to a pre WW II .32-20 M&P.

While not original, I'd rather have a shootable Frankensmith than a non-working all original handgun. If folks ask me if I'm a collector, I tell them, "Yes, I collect shooters". :D
 
Daniel

So - were you able to use the whole original extractor rod assembly, with some adjustment to the extractor star ? Where did you find that very early nob ?!

I'd say you were very fortunate to get that to work .

Regards, Mike Priwer
 
Daniel

So - were you able to use the whole original extractor rod assembly, with some adjustment to the extractor star ? Where did you find that very early nob ?!

I'd say you were very fortunate to get that to work .

Regards, Mike Priwer

Gary is correct, I got the NOS knob and a used cylinder from gunspartscorp.com There is a another thread on my adventures with this 1902. Another member fitted his with a model 10 cylinder for the same reasons I have. He used the entire model 10 yoke, cylinder and extractor assembly. I used just the cylinder so I would not have to retime everything again.
 
Back
Top