Help with .32 Long Hand Ejector, Need Model & Mechanical problems

Ben B.

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Great grandad’s gun, was a great shooter and fun, now has problems.

1) This is a.32 long, 5-screw, Serial # from butt and flat of barrel above ejector rod area is 154,500. Is this 3rd Model?

2) Cylinder gap problems. With pistol cocked, .007 tightest and .017 cylinder pressed back.

3) Cylinder is not clicking into place during firing. Slowly cock it, and a very light amount of rotation is required to make the cylinder click into lock up. Cock it briskly to SA, it locks in place. Double action briskly locks, a slow DA pull and 50-50 if it locks.

4) Bulged barrel.

5) I’d like to check alignment of the crane. I’ve removed cylinder from crane, measurements of the “cylinder barrel” that the ejector rod goes thru are different than listed dimensions of J-frame cranes, so the alignment tools I’ve seen appear wrong size. I have not tried a pencil or anything.

Problems 2 & 3are new problems and big problems. Problem 2 is probably new, but I did not measure gap before I jacked this gun up.

x6Qj4GT


Here is the back story on this. I hope you enjoy it, I do not. I have a S&W .32 Long Hand Ejector. Came to me from my great grand-dad. When I got it it looked like dirt. Peeling nickel, broken & glued mother of pearl panels. I won a free refinish and the nickel was removed and gun blued. I added J-frame boot grips. End result was a peach of a pistol, looked good & shot good, easy to reload ammo. My youngest son (named after my GGF) loves shooting it. I’ve enjoyed it for 20+ years of occasional shooting.

Last month I had the brilliant idea of loading up some Lehigh Xtreme Defense bullets, partly to have a mini project, partly to play with these new bullets, partly because what the hell. Cutting to the punchline, a glitchy chrono and being in a hurry to get home led to me stacking 2 test loads in the barrel, and a trip to gunsmith to drill out the rock hard all copper Lehigh bullets. Now has a bulged barrel. Now has “probable” poor accuracy (haven’t benched to check) with my lead loads and definitely shoots left. Being brick-head stubborn/stupid, I tried again with the Lehigh and stuck that one also. Not squibs, the .312” bullets were just too hard to make it thru the pipe for the rather stout minimum charge Lehigh lists. And they are a cast iron bitch to get out if stuck in a barrel.

I tried anyway after the second instance. I might have been a bit pissed, I might have not thought to remove the cylinder, and I might have rested the forcing cone on a wood hammer handle between vice jaws and tried driving the round out with a squib rod. In the process, I somehow jacked up the crane and the little nub on the frame that acts as a cylinder stop. Back to gunsmith. He fixed it to the condition it is now.

I have both a guilty conscience and 96 boutique Lehigh bullets that need a pistol, so a SP101 in .327 is on the way. Despite my ham hamhanded mangling when I lost my temper, I actually can follow directions and fix things successfully. I have hand tools but no lathe, mill or drill press.

But I’d like to fix granddaddy’s gun. Any guidance appreciated.

Ben
 
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Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass! I recommend getting a copy of The S&W Revolver--A Shop Manual by Jerry Kuhnhausen. It will take you through head space adjustments and how to use end play bushings to adjust barrel to cylinder gap and head space. However, your BC gap of .007" is within spec, I believe. It will also tell you how to fix a misaligned yoke. As far as the bulged barrel goes, many times it does not affect accuracy. If, as you say, the accuracy is off enough that you can't adjust for it, a barrel replacement may be the answer. However, it is not a drop in replacement and you've already sunk a lot of money into this gun. It won't be all original afterward. Perhaps it is time to retire it to a shadow box in honor of your GGF? There are a lot of experts on this forum and I'm sure others, besides H Richard, will weigh in shortly. Good luck!
 
I just do not ever load these old HEs with jacketed bullets. Hard lead is fine, but these guns were not designed of manufactured for copper clad ammo.

I agree that a new barrel is part of the answer, but will not solve the cylinder lock up issue. Your gunsmith should be able to replace the barrel and repair the out of time issue. gunpartscorp does not have any I frame barrels, but check ebay as they currently have barrels for 32 Long.
 
I do not believe these have a large collector value but a large interest is there because of the ease of shooting and the fun value of the cartridge. I don't think you are looking a lot of collector value by replacing the bbl, it isn't a Registered Magnum.

What you have is cost. While these are appreciating in value they are still available for $450-$600. I believe the cost of repair to the gun will approach that. IIWM, I would replace the gun, put the original with it's original grips back in a shadow box and shoot the new one. For a shooter I would go all the way up to the 1960's or newer with a J frame 32 long.

Just my opinions and ideas but that gives you the best of both worlds.
 
I have a 32 hand ejector that needed the cylinder alignment checked. The J frame tool I had was to large so I had a machine shop turn it down to fit inside the I frame yoke. If I frame yoke alignment tools exist I have never seen one.
 
. . . What you have is cost. While these are appreciating in value they are still available for $450-$600. I believe the cost of repair to the gun will approach that. IIWM, I would replace the gun, put the original with it's original grips back in a shadow box and shoot the new one . . .


Actually, they are available for $200 - $300 for a shooter. I have not seen much increase in standard 32 HE values for some time now. Limited demand, most likely due to a difficult caliber to find on the shelves, somewhat ineffective power, and small size limits appeal. Here are just a few that have recently sold on GB.

S&W 1903 Hand Ejector .32 Long - Revolvers at GunBroker.com : 894190654

Smith & Wesson .32 S&W Long Item-P-89 - Revolvers at GunBroker.com : 890226271

S&W 1903 .32 Long 6" Double Action Hand Ejector Revolver - Circa 1906 - Revolvers at GunBroker.com : 889158276

As for the barrel, one does not know what damage was done and how much the strength of the barrel is compromised. Hard to find stress cracks until failures and no reason not to replace the barrel. The barrel needs to be set back anyway and so a used barrel replacement is quite cost effective. Remember that this was his grandfather's gun so putting some money into it is money well spent to keep a family heirloom in working order.
 
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Welcome to the forum.

#1. Your .32 #154,500 is a .32 Hand Ejector Model of 1903 - 5th Change. the 3rd model began at ~ #263001.

#3. The cyl has a carry up problem which is simple to fix. However, it's made worse by your #2. issue. Fix that first, and then I'll send info on carry up repair. No new parts needed.
 
Welcome to the forum.

#1. Your .32 #154,500 is a .32 Hand Ejector Model of 1903 - 5th Change. the 3rd model began at ~ #263001.

#3. The cyl has a carry up problem which is simple to fix. However, it's made worse by your #2. issue. Fix that first, and then I'll send info on carry up repair. No new parts needed.
Excellent, thank you. I’ll plan to get a barrel for it.

There was some fore & aft play between crane and frame, a few thou, more than my other wheelies. I couldn’t find any crane-frame shims for an I-frame. I tried anyway to pull it forward with a .005” shim from McMaster-Carr. Wouldn’t close, so I stopped hoping that would fix cylinder gap problem. I’m inclined to replace barrel anyway. My reading here & elsewhere suggests that fixing the gap requires a barrel set back.

1. The local smith seems OK, by which I mean he knows more than me and can machine metal, but he’s not a guru of old S&W revos. This barrel job looks like basic machine/gunsmith work to me. Is it?

2. Does the forcing cone require attention when setting barrel?

3. Would a .32 Long S&W Regulation Police 3rd Model barrel present a problem?

Thank you all for your input.

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Ben B.,

Welcome. You do not list your location so I have no way of knowing if this gentleman is local to you or not, but, I would recommend Andy Horvath to you. He has been working on S&W revolvers for decades and does very good work.

Kevin
 

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