Help With New 340MP

Biscut

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I just bought a 340MP 357 with Crimson Trace laser grips. I also have a Ruger LCR 357 with Houge grips. Fit and finish and over look and feel, 340MP wins hands down. I understand the 340MP is 1.9 IIRC ounces lighter but OMG what a difference in felt recoil with the same ammo.

I am not recoil shy with rifles (I can swing 45/70; 338RUM) and shoot semi with 10mm and hot 40's. These are my only revolvers. I've shot 500 S&W but it was compensated....and 454 Casul out of a shorter barrel Ruger was not anything I would want to do often.

Maybe I am employing an incorrect handhold for a J frame?? Or does the LCR really absord that much more recoil?

The trigger on the LCR is just right...I hope to have the 340MP trigger reduced.

Is there any advice for a set of grips for this guy? Is there a different Crimson Trace that is a little softer than stock? Or am I in the suck it up and deal. I realize it will not be pleasant but 5 shots 357 125gr and I really don't want to shoot another 5! With the LCR I can swing 20 and be fine.

Revolvers are new to me so any advice is well appreciated. I realize it's a pocket rocket and not a range gun. I am not expecting to blow off 100 rounds of 357 and be smilin! If I could get it to 10 rounds ok and 5 comfy than that would be excellent.

Thanks!!
 
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Hi Biscut! Welcome to the wonderful world of Scandium J-mags. My old 360Sc is a beast to shoot, but I don't mind the steel frame mags like the Model 60 and Ruger SP101. As to grips, I believe Pachmayr makes a Decelerator model for RB J-frames, others more knowledgeable will tell you if so. I use an old Sile rubber that covers the backstrap, FWIW.

Also, I believe the M&P versions have a steel cylinder, but I think there are also ammo restrictions similar to the ones promulgated for the titanium cylinder guns. Bullet inertia/pullout may be an issue, others will know more definitely. I would recommend a shooting or weight-lifting glove to cushion the web of the hand for range work.
 
Shooting glove is an excellent idea.

From what I've read the SS cylinder on the 340MP has no restrictions like the Ti models do. Scandium and Alum alloy frames are a-ok.

I have to check out the bullet jump. From what I gather it's much more prone to happen with a hard cast lead roll crimp. I'll have to test out my SD ammo.
 
I always go to the range intending to run some 357's through whichever J frames I am going to shoot. Then when I get there, I shoot standard pressure 38 specials and usually I am pretty happy with the results. Some where along the way, I forget about the 357's. This has been happening for quite a while now.

My first J was a steel framed 649. I liked it better in many ways than my Ruger 357 LCR. One way it was better than the LCR was the way it handled 357 mag recoil. It is heavier than the LCR so that is not unexpected. So I sold the LCR.

Now I have several different model J frames. I have been experimenting with several different grips. On my 3 inch 60 Pro I now have Pachymayr Grippers. They are big but just fine for the range. I have shot 357 mags from this gun, but it is not what I would call pleasant. I am quite content to continue shooting 38 specials from this gun. By the way, there are Decelerators for J frames and I agree with kaaskop who suggested you may like those. I have a set of Decelerators on a N-frame and I find them pretty good.

On my 642 and my 649, I am running the Uncle Mike Boot grips that were on the S&W stores close-out section. I like them pretty well but I don't think they would do much to tame 357 recoil.

On my 640 Pro, I have been experimenting with Hogue Tamers. Being thicker and covering the backstrap, they change the geometry of my hands grip on the gun. In head to head comparison, I didn't shoot any better or worse than the 642 with UM boots. Considering the better sights and the steel frame on the 640, that made me feel that maybe the Hogue Tamers don't really add much control to the gun. I am going to continue experimenting with them. Honestly, I like the feel and size of the Uncle Mike Boots the best, but as I have said, I rarely shoot 357 mags from my J frames.

There are people who will curse me for saying this, but shoot 38 specials from your gun and have fun. Put a round (or cylinder) of 357 mag through every so often and note how it changes your point of impact so you know where to aim if you ever do need those 357 mags. I think the Pachymayr Decelerators are a good option if you don't mind the size. I believe they will lessen the recoil if you must shoot 357 mags on a regular basis.
 
attn ridgewalker

Hi ridge, great post and great to find another poster who appreciates snub mags. May I repeat myself for the umpteenth time and recommend CCI Blazer 158gr JHP .357 ammo? Not as hot as standard 158gr mags (another poster says 990fps in 3") yet nothing to stand in front of! Work very well in my Model 60 and SP101.

And yes, it's OK to say you shoot standard pressure .38s in your mags. However, as another poster previously opined, it's not OK to say that those who enjoy shooting .357s in snub mags are liars. This past comment still bothers me.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103
 
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I agree that the CCI Blazer in the aluminum case is less than full power 357 mag and might be an option the OP wants to try. However, the brass cased CCI Blazer is full power mag.
 
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I just went to the range yesterday with my 340pd....Ti cylinder. I don't mind some hard hitting recoil but 5 rounds of full power 125 sjhp 357 magnum ammo is it for me. Anymore then that and my trigger finger starts to bleed from bouncing off the trigger guard. Sill I love the gun and carry it 24/7
Sorry that's a pic of my 438. Yea I'm a dope.
 

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I went to our dept. basement range real quick to shoot some UMC 158gr 357. Shot 10 rounds in the LCR but changed my finger pull....Tip of my finger pull got me the cut on the trigger finger like so many others (from the 340PD). So I tried hoggin the trigger and it made a pretty decent difference in felt recoil.
I will try it in a few days with the 340 as well to see what it feels like.

As far as grips...the Houge grips that come standard on the LCR have a geometry that I think is just right for my hands (pretty big - a lot of XL gloves are tight). Is the Pachamyer similar?

Short of it is I have an application for booth of these. I can use the LCR for light hiking or fishing in black bear country with stout 357 or as an everyday carry if I feel like it.

Easily use the 340 with 357 for longer climbs/hikes where every ounce counts or throw a good 38+ for everyday 2 legged protection.

End of day if I keep the 340 as is I still love it with 38 for messing around 25-50 rounds at a time just fine and keep to a 5 shot 357 to make sure I keep up on the training aspect. I just wanted to know from those of you who've had them for a while. What you found to work.

2 snubbies....is a good problem to have :)
 
I found with my 637 shooting double action is much easier on the trigger finger. I can shoot as many standard pressure 38s as I want. +P not as many.
Single action, +P its hard to shoot a whole cylinder full.

David
 
Biscut, Jerry Miculek recommends a lower hold on the J frames with the weak thumb crossed over the top. Jerry is great but I'm no Jerry, I'm just Joe Schmoe from Kokomo. I have one grip method that I use on all handguns. I use the same grip on my J frames as my L and N frames. I use a hi grip, the web of my thumb up at the angle of the back of the revolver. I rarely shoot semi-autos anymore but I keep both my thumbs on the same side facing forward (like for shooting a semi-auto.) The trick when shooting a J frame is to position your strong thumb a little below the cylinder release so it doesn't cut you. I often have to consciously think about its placement or I will get cut. This seems to be something that favors the Hogue Tamer grip. Due to its width, my thumb seems to fall clear of the cylinder release into a position similar to that with larger framed revolvers.

I'm looking forward to trying the Ergo Delta grips if I can find a pair without having to pay the high shipping fee direct from the company. There are several threads on these unusual looking grips.

A lot of people recommend Pachymayr Compacts. I haven't tried them yet so I can't comment.

My last word (maybe) on shooting 38's vs 357 mags is I think you can learn a lot more good shooting habits faster shooting 38 specials than 357 mags.

With your XXL hands, you owe it to yourself to get a N-frame. Look at the 327PC, it may fit the bill for your hiking gun. I'll bet you could find a 627 you would like too. 357 mag is a great cartridge and it has its place but many consider it marginal for bear. Do a search, there are a lot of entertaining and informative bear discussions on this forum.
 
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Thanks ridgewalker....make it even more difficult, I'm a lefty :)!

My black bear territory is pretty much the Catskills NY for fly fishing and hiking. Light weight punch is what I'm looking for. I love my G29 10mm but you have to lug it around! Always a tradeoff right?

I hope nobody gets me wrong, 38 and 38+P are what will get digested most. But I feel the need to shoot 357 at least 5 rounds a session to keep me trained properly. I'm just looking to see if there is a better way.

Make no mistake, the LCR isn't a pussycat by all means with 357....just a noticeable difference between the 2.
 
attn biscut

A pleasure reading your well-thought out posts! However, I don't know that I would carry a mag snub for protection against critters in the wild. These little guns are designed for concealed carry against hostile individuals, up close and personal. And quick. True, weight is a consideration, but a larger frame gun is frankly easier to shoot than a J-mag snub.

Here in the desert, by one's lonesome, a larger-frame handgun is always welcome, as is an appropriate longarm.
 
A pleasure reading your well-thought out posts! However, I don't know that I would carry a mag snub for protection against critters in the wild. These little guns are designed for concealed carry against hostile individuals, up close and personal. And quick. True, weight is a consideration, but a larger frame gun is frankly easier to shoot than a J-mag snub.

Here in the desert, by one's lonesome, a larger-frame handgun is always welcome, as is an appropriate longarm.

I'm with you 100% but my reasoning is the lightweight with 5 357 is better than left behind due to weight. I've been lucky enough to hunt black bear in Northwest Territories and came back with a big bear. I sure wouldn't want to fend off one of those!! Most of my time in the Catskills on rivers and backwoods the black bears aren't normally all that large. Now there are sure to be some big ones but majority are smaller but they are plentiful.

My other areas of VT and NH are often in winter with a decent sized pack and ice axes. Weight is critical. J frame and the LCR are even lighter than Kahr PM40.

Maybe you wouldn't agree or maybe you will but at least you know my rational for it.
 
I had the 340 w titanium cyl w a 15lb trigger pull. Made a trade with a neighbor to acquire it.
I got the trigger down to 7lbs by polishing & spring change (no big investment, there).

Went out with that little 11 oz beast & 5 rnds of good .357Mag.
Came home, soaked my hand in cold water and put the thing up for sale. The extra weight of my other .357s is well worth it.
 
Since I only carry a j frame as a pocket gun, that means small grips and light weight; a 340PD with the original Hogue Bantam grips. For practice, I use a S&W 41C .22 a lot, std vel 130 gr ball in the 340PD a moderate amount, and Speer 135 gr +P for carry and some practice.

If I need more power/capacity/accuracy, it's time to go to a bigger gun in a belt holster. Yes, I've shot magnums in the 340. But rapid fire is not impressive, and I think shooting the mags enought to get reasonably proficient would produce permant hand damage rather quickly.
 
The 6 extra ounces on the KLCR makes a difference compared to the 11oz on the 340. I thought .357 thru the KLCR was torture enough. I will not shoot that load out of my 340PD.


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