Help with Sideplate screws.

[Spikedog]

I just got a Police trade 640-1. It had a few dings, but some 600 grit sand paper and Flitz took care of them. The trigger is the smoothest I have ever felt.

I would like to clean and lube (lightly) the internals, but the side plate screws are really tight! I don't want to force them, so does anyone have any suggestions? I do plan to order the correct screw drivers from Brownells.

I am also up for leaving it alone too because it feels better than my performance center 442!

 

[NYlakesider]

I just got a Police trade 640-1. It had a few dings, but some 600 grit sand paper and Flitz took care of them. The trigger is the smoothest I have ever felt.

I would like to clean and lube (lightly) the internals, but the side plate screws are really tight! I don't want to force them, so does anyone have any suggestions? I do plan to order the correct screw drivers from Brownells.

I am also up for leaving it alone too because it feels better than my performance center 442!

Having the right tools is a good investment. With that said, by reading your post it does not appear that at this time the side plate needs pulling. The last thing you want is a tool (right size or not) skidding along the plate if it slips!

 

[allthumbs]

In my area Wally's sells a screwdriver kit for guns for about 10 bucks, if not any auto parts store or sporting goods store should have those kits, when you get one just use the biggest and thickest bit that will fit the screw and you should have no problem.

 

[JAREDSHS]

if everything is working right and you like how smooth it runs, you probably have nothing to gain by getting inside the gun. I would vote to leave her alone and go shoot. The old saying of "if it ain't broke-don't try to fix it" has a lot of merit. Very little lubrication is needed for a S&W revolver, and you can provide that without taking the side plate off. I have had a few off in my time but didn't gain anything but satisfy my idol curiosity about what it looked like inside. Proceed with caution.

 

[Pond Scum 43]

I agree with previous post.
Spray some lube in and around the trigger if you feel the need.

 

[Bob O]

Using the proper size bit, I'd pull the plate and inspect/lube. The 642 I bought brand new this year was bone dry.

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[gmborkovic]

Just a question. if you have an old car with a carb on it,, if it runs the best, do you pull it and start taking it apart? Leave the side plate where it is.
I think you need a "learner" gun. Best

 

[Bob O]

A side plate on a revolver and a carburetor are an apples to oranges comparison.

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[Kenny D]

I did not want to take the side plate off of my 4th Change Model of 1905. So per suggestions from this forum, I took the grips off and sprayed a CLP in every crack I could find. Got some plastic covered wire and hung the pistol over a trash can with the barrel pointing up and let it hang for a day. Surprised at how small an amount of gunk dripped out. Did it again and it drained more out than the first time but it was clear. Cleaned it up and put the grips on. The action seems a lot smoother, I think but it was OK before. But I know that it is clean inside now.

 

[gmborkovic]

OH!, Im not talking fruits here. Just take the grips off and flush it out.
That was a poor comparison. If it works, leave it alone, or get a set of plate screws and a screw driver. Go at it. Best

 

[soFlaNative]

Old tip from one who had to break loose corroded fixtures
in a hole and did not what to run back to the shop for a torch.
Once you have the right size drive, firmly yet gently tighten.
It does not have to move but if it does it will loosen right up.

 

[steamloco76]

Brownells sells S&W specific Magna-Tip bit sets, get those and their short "Law Enforcement" handle and you will have what it takes to tackle those tight screws.

I prefer to have a look at the innards and clean out any odd junk rather than spray a bunch of CLP and hope for the best.

 

[les.b]

I have a nice Rolex watch. It has the smoothest action that I have ever seem!! It also keeps perfect time, but I can't seem to get the back unscrewed to remove it. Should I get a bigger wrench?

Spikedog, I'm just pulling your chain. Your question is perfectly legitimate, but there are some similarities between the two scenarios. I have a lot of Smith and Wesson and Colt revolvers. Some of them I have taken the sideplate off of, and some I didn't feel the need to. Sometimes, locktite has been used, and heating the part will help loosen it. Otherwise, it might help to soak the offending screws in a penetrating oil, which might help loosen them. As others have suggested, ensure that you have an exactly fitting screwdriver, and if you are going to be doing work that requires replacing and removing it more than once, it's good to have some used screws on hand to use until you are ready to finally put it back together. Also, when removing the sideplate, after removing the screws, (and grips), gently tap the exposed grip frame with a non marring hammer, or screwdriver handle. The plate will gradually rise up, and can be removed without damage. Spray with CLP or similar, and scrub with an old toothbrush. Lightly relube...the CLP is probably good, and gently reassemble.

Keep the sideplate screws in order. Replace them in the place they came out of. Some models have the front screw fitted to put the correct tension on the yoke, and the front and back screws look alike.

Best Regards, and don't take my kidding too seriously...

Les

 

[jringo8769]

Hey i have a trick that always helped me
I use some good penetrating fluid and let it set 24 hours and find a screwdriver that fits well
Just tap on the screws with a hard rap from a hammer and that will usually break free any screws but as said before i would protect the sideplate with some blue tape to prevent any accidents too
I found a screwdriver set made by winchester at walmart very low cost
It is not the best quality but with some patience and some skill
It should work for u
God Bless and wait to see how it turns out
John


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[wrangler5]

If you really want to see whatever gunk is in there come out, use GunScrubber, not CLP. Gunscrubber dissolves pretty much everything that's not metal, including wood finishes and plastic, so be careful where you spray it and where you let it drip. The carrier also evaporates completely, leaving bone dry metal behind, so you do need to relubricate.

I've seen several recommendations for RemOil over CLP as having less tendency to gunk itself up over the long haul. That said, I currently have a Model 31 in pieces waiting for a bolt plunger from S&W, and I'll lubricate things with CLP when I put it back together.

+! for the Brownells screwdriver set sized for S&W screws. I don't like that it magnetizes everything it touches, but it's the best-fitting set of blades I've seen on affordable tools. (I bought the longer-shanked combo set because it offers storage for all 4 tips in the handle - if your bench looks like mine that's an important feature. )

 

[9mmsubgun-m11]

Spikedog,depending on where you are located in Indiana,I would be glad to help you remove the side plate as I have the proper tools for the job.

 

[amazingflapjack]

If it ain't broke...

 

[FWP]

I have taken apart many Smiths including many police guns. I cannot remember finding any that had so much crud that it would concern me. Revolver internals tend to stay clean in normal use.

If it is smooth as you described I suspect it is clean.

 

[H Richard]

Just be cautious with those Brownells S&W screwdrivers sets. The 3 blades that come with it do fit some screws, but not all "ages" of the screws. The width and length of the screw slot has varied over the years, and some blades need more "fitting" to be correct. That's why I bought a large complete set of screwdrivers.

 

[ameridaddy]

Have a drill press? If so, chuck the screwdriver bit in it, use a bench block, sandbag or some such to firmly support the gun, blue tape the side plate, place gun under the quill, lower the bit, turn chuck by hand. This will keep the bit perpendicular to the screw and not let it skid sideways, and also keep plenty of down pressure on the screw to prevent the bit camming out of the screw slot.
Suggest like others said to first soak screws in something to break any crud loose before trying to turn them after a first try reveals screws to be very tight. You may get just one chance at getting them out, so do everything right the first time.
Given how nice the action is, I think I'd just do the flush out like several recommnded above.