Hi Mike,
Welcome to the forum.
Do you have the broken piece of the star? If so, Tig welding may be the easiest fix.
This and similar issues come up from time to time. I have researched the TL parts differences and prepared the following that may be of some help.
44 TRIPLE LOCK EXTRACTOR ASSEMBLY AND CYL PARTS
BACKGROUND:
The 1908 .44 HE 1st model (triple lock) extractor 'front spring loaded center pin' was changed on the .44 2nd model to a 'rear spring loaded center pin' that remains to this day.
Although Smith had the design of the .44 2nd model and subsequent .44s already perfected in the .38 1902 2nd year production after the engineering change, Smith went thru an exercise with quite a different design for their first N frame, the 1908 triple lock. Then switched to the 1902 design in 1915 on the .44 2nd model!
TL EXTRACTOR ASSEMBLY PARTS DIFFERENCES FROM LATER MODELS AND PARTS SUBSTITUTIONS:
These are things one can do to get a TL working again permanently or until the right parts are found. The 2nd Model and later N frame parts can be substituted as an entire unit or just certain parts, depending on which original TL parts are damaged or missing.
Although different, the TL extractor system can be adapted from the 2nd Model and later extractor assembly parts. TL parts are assembled differently but all the same overall lengths as later N frames with a few slight dimensional differences as outlined below. For example, the TL extractor rod has the large spring retaining collar machined integral to the rod necessitating the separate screw off knob on the end to remove the rod from the rear of the yoke. Later pre war rods have integral knobs but a separate spring collar for removability of the rod from the front. (Post war and later, the knob is an integral knurled end of the rod and is easily removable from front or rear.)
1. The TL yoke cylinder axis tube is the same as later models.
2. The TL cylinders
These are virtually the same inside the center hole. Just for reference the TL cyl is slightly longer than later cylinders by only .004" which only require cyl shims to use later cylinders, therefore a minor issue. If you just need a replacement cylinder, a 2nd model or later cyl put in a TL may need a few shims, otherwise, no problem.
3. The key difference is the center pin.
The TL extractor center pin is sprung to the front, in the opposite direction from any subsequent Hand Ejector models which are all sprung to the rear.
The TL ctr pin is the same OAL 4.080” to 4.090” (depending on final fitting to the front lock) as later N frames. But the critical difference is; the rear .687” length of the TL pin is .020” larger diameter than the rest of the pin, .119”+/- and .143” on the end, (later pins are .115”+/- and .122” on the end). Therefore to properly fit the hole in the TL star and in the TL recoil plate, a .687” long bushing by .143” O.D. must pressed or sweated on the rear end of a standard N frame ctr pin. If you ctr pin is too short, this bushing can be left solid on the back end and installed only far enough to get the correct overall ctr pin length of ~4.085”.
The later, and much easier obtainable, rear sprung center pin has a collar that must be moved about 5/32" forward. For our substitution scenario, simply turning off the collar in a lathe and replacing it with a 'C' clip in a groove cut in the new location will correct that. A ‘C’ clip in a groove is the factory method used to retain original TL front sprung center pin spring in the extractor rod along with a cupped collar between the C clip and the spring: .100” thick x .195” diameter, slightly cupped .010" deep on the spring side for the end of the spring to nest in. So retain and reuse it if you have it, on a replacement later style modified center pin. A simple washer of .100” thickness x .195” diameter will work just as well. The spring is tensioned between the back bored ledge in the extractor rod (see #3 above) and the C clip on the ctr pin.
TL extractor rod showing the integral collar, removable knob, and the ctr pin orientation. Notice the right end (rear) is a larger diameter than the left end (front) of the pin. The tiny C clip on the center pin must be removed to remove/install the spring. There's also a .100” wide x .195” diameter spring retaining collar (which is missing in this photo) that goes between the spring and the C clip. The gun will function w/o the collar or with a washer of the same size substituted:
Photo by Steelslaver
These are reproduced parts:
Photo by delta-419
If the center pin is all you need for your TL, another alternative is having a new one professionally machined to the above dimensions to put your TL extractor system back in business, and is not a complicated or an expensive proposition. I have names of some who reproduce these parts.
4. Extractor Star
Even extractor stars can be interchangeable to the TL cyl with slight fitting and re-drilling the two pin holes to the orientation of the TL cyl. Also drilling the ctr pin hole to the TL ctr pin diameter is required. The star shaft lengths and right hand thread are the same (prior to c.1960 of course, when the thread was changed to left hand).
5. TL Extractor Rod & Knob
The TL extractor rod is .260”-.265" in diameter, everything after is .245”-.250" so no real problem there. It will be just a bit of a loose fit in the hole in the TL yoke. You need a rod with the ‘barrel’ style knob to fit in the shroud. Any N frame with shrouded barrel will work from the Model 1926 .44 (3rd Model), 38-44 Outdoorsman, 38-44 Heavy Duty to WW II, also any post 1928 N frame to WW II. And any post 1928 thru WW II K frame extractor rod can also be used with a collar spacer to lengthen it. These are preferred to turning down the ‘mushroom ‘ knob which eliminates the knurling, and for authentic look.
However, any of these rods including the 1917 and other mushroom rods will need some machining to use with the TL ctr pin and other extractor parts:
On a lathe ‘turn off’ the knob down to rod diameter whether you start with a ‘barrel’ or ‘mushroom’ knob
Back bore the front end of rod .820” x .195”
Thread outside of rod to a length of .335”
Obtain and thread another ‘barrel’ knob I.D. to match
6. Replace Entire Extractor Assembly
Much simpler would be to use to use an entire 2nd Model or later model up to 1960 (for right hand thread) extractor assembly (even the cyl as noted above) with one of the rods above. The rear sprung center pin will work with the addition of a rear end sleeve (described above to properly fit the locking hole in the recoil shield.
The TL recoil shield left side lip, you'll notice, does not have a divot ramp in the lip. It doesn't require one because of TL’s front sprung ctr pin set up. But when using a later extractor rod assembly and/or cyl, with rear sprung ctr pin, we obviously do not want to modify the TL recoil shield lip (hoping of course some day, correct TL parts will become available)! So a little care in closing is needed with swapping to later extractor system.
