House Failed Radon Inspection?

Joined
May 16, 2005
Messages
15,908
Reaction score
38,733
Location
Oregon
We're in the process of buying a house. Upsizing from our 1000 sq. ft. townhouse condo to 3000 sq ft mid-century ranch house built in 1953, with subsequent remodels.

Our bid was accepted, and we are in the process of inspections. The house has failed its radon inspection with a reading of 4.5. Apparently over 4.0 is a failure. Our real estate agent is saying we should ask seller to install or pay for a radon mitigation system, which he says costs an average of $2K or so.

I've never had a house fail this test before, so am uncertain as to what this means. As I am — so far — a cancer surviver, I am not keen on living in a carcinogenic house.

So, forum brothers and sisters, what say ye? Test graph below:

 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
I was a builder in a former life. I built many buildings in Utah in the Radon region. IMHO, no amount of "Mitigation Systems" can mitigate 'forever'. I would pass on the house. I know of one small subdivision of individual family houses near SLC that failed and continued to fail the Radon Test. The owners eventually sued collectively and won. The entire subdivision was condemned.
 
Great, now I have to go back to our report and see what it says. But the inspector never mentioned anything so I don't even know if it was done...

This is from Wikipedia:

High concentrations of radon in homes were discovered by chance in 1985 after the stringent radiation testing conducted at a new nuclear power plant revealed that Stanley Watras, a construction engineer at the plant, was contaminated by radioactive substances even though the reactor had never been fueled.[85] Typical domestic exposures are of approximately 100 Bq/m3 (2.7 pCi/L) indoors. Some level of radon will be found in all buildings. Radon mostly enters a building directly from the soil through the lowest level in the building that is in contact with the ground. High levels of radon in the water supply can also increase indoor radon air levels. Typical entry points of radon into buildings are cracks in solid foundations and walls, construction joints, gaps in suspended floors and around service pipes, cavities inside walls, and the water supply.[8][86] Radon concentrations in the same location may differ by a factor of two over a period of one hour. Also, the concentration in one room of a building may be significantly different from the concentration in an adjoining room.[2] The soil characteristics of the dwellings are the most important source of radon for the ground floor and higher concentration of indoor radon observed on lower floors. Most of the high radon concentrations have been reported from places near fault zones; hence the existence of a relation between the exhalation rate from faults and indoor radon concentrations is obvious.[86]

The distribution of radon concentrations will generally differ from room to room, and the readings are averaged according to regulatory protocols. Indoor radon concentration is usually assumed to follow a lognormal distribution on a given territory.[87] Thus, the geometric mean is generally used for estimating the "average" radon concentration in an area.[88]

The mean concentration ranges from less than 10 Bq/m3 to over 100 Bq/m3 in some European countries.[89] Typical geometric standard deviations found in studies range between 2 and 3, meaning (given the 68–95–99.7 rule) that the radon concentration is expected to be more than a hundred times the mean concentration for 2% to 3% of the cases.

Some of the highest radon hazard in the US is found in Iowa and in the Appalachian Mountain areas in southeastern Pennsylvania.[90] Iowa has the highest average radon concentrations in the US due to significant glaciation that ground the granitic rocks from the Canadian Shield and deposited it as soils making up the rich Iowa farmland.[91] Many cities within the state, such as Iowa City, have passed requirements for radon-resistant construction in new homes. The second highest readings in Ireland were found in office buildings in the Irish town of Mallow, County Cork, prompting local fears regarding lung cancer.[92]

In a few locations, uranium tailings have been used for landfills and were subsequently built upon, resulting in possible increased exposure to radon.[2]

Since radon is a colorless, odorless gas, the only way to know how much is present in the air or water is to perform tests. In the US, radon test kits are available to the public at retail stores, such as hardware stores, for home use, and testing is available through licensed professionals, who are often home inspectors. Efforts to reduce indoor radon levels are called radon mitigation. In the US, the EPA recommends all houses be tested for radon.

I'd be super careful and honestly, probably not satisficed with a mitigation system, cancelling the offer.

It might be the area you guys try to move to but I would not take a chance, there's already so many things that can cause cancer, I would not want to live close to anything radiation related.... I remember too well Chernobyl and the aftermath.
 
Radon is overhyped! It is literally radiation coming out of the ground. Areas in the Midwest like where I live in Omaha are all going to fail radon tests.

Years ago I tried my hand at residential real estate and I would have all my buyers conduct the tests because they always come up positive in the area and if the sellers don't pay for the mitigation, someday you will pay for mitigation when you go to sell the house. But, it's all smoke and mirrors.

Radon is everywhere and more so in places like Nebraska.

Do you really think a PVC pipe with a tiny fan to act as a minor exhaust is really going to "save" you?
 
My previous house was around a 4.0. My realtor freaked out. :rolleyes:

Since we had a basement I had my friend install a simple fan system that brought fresh air from outside, and exhausted the air inside the basement to the outside. Cost me about $600.
Something along this line.

Panasonic WhisperComfort Energy Recovery Ventilator | Sylvane

Radon went down to 1 point something.
Buyers were told, the deal went through and everyone was happy.

OVERHYPE.

Just because you buy a house that doesn't exceed the levels today is no guarantee it won't tomorrow.
 
Last edited:
Get your deposit back and move on to another place. It isn't worth the worry and expense of trying to install a "mitigation system". Think about it - is a small fan going to remove radon which is on the other side of the basement?
 
My previous home was found during the home inspection to have high radon levels in the basement. Although I think the whole radon thing is overblown, I didn't see why I should be the one taking the risk and also figured that if I didn't insist that the seller install a mitigation system then I'd just end up having to pay to have one installed when I sold. They agreed to have a sub-slab ventilation system installed, which was no big deal - simply an unobtrusive PVC pipe fitted through the basement floor, then out through the sill and up to the roof, with a small fan along the way. We tested after it had been running for a week or so, and the levels were no longer of concern. The sub-slab systems don't just pull air out of the basement, they pull it from the ground immediately under the basement. The system worked for the 20 years I owned that house, needed no maintenance whatsoever, and was still running fine, and effectively reducing radon levels, when I sold it.

If you like the home, my recommendation is to make installation of a mitigation system at the seller's expense a condition of the sale and test after installation to ensure that the problem has been corrected. My understanding of the real estate laws (IANAL) is that the sellers are now required to disclose the high radon levels to any other buyers, so if they don't want to install the mitigation system for you they'll likely have to install it for the next potential buyer anyway.
 
Last edited:
There are neighborhoods in Denver that have experienced Radon problems. This is most common in homes with basements, the vast majority of homes here in Colorado, although it's also been a problem in homes built without basements.

Don't imagine that mitigation is either simple or inexpensive: it isn't.

We've had a fair amount of litigation involving this issue, issues of undisclosed defects brought against both builders and sellers.

I've had some involvement in this sort of litigation: it's great for me and other attorneys, but nothing anyone without a huge trust fund and a love of being a litigant wants to get caught up in.

I'd find a different house to buy!
 
If you're specifically looking within a given area, if one house fails, most will probably fail (unless they've had mitigation systems installed already). So walking away may not be helpful if the next one you go under contract on fails too.

I would ask for them to have the mitigation system of your choice installed and have them retest and demonstrate a satisfactory level prior to closing.
 
Like Rammer_Jammer, I also live in eastern nebraska. I'd say nearly impossible to find a home here that doesn't exceed 4 in the basement. You can either vent the basement like ladder13 or install a radon mitigation fan or open the basement windows more or do nothing.

The problem is if you buy the house now you know there's high radon levels so you'd need to disclose it if you sell the house. Where I live, it's so common people will just say "yeah, whatever." Where you're buying it might be a big deal.
 
Like Rammer_Jammer, I also live in eastern nebraska. I'd say nearly impossible to find a home here that doesn't exceed 4 in the basement. You can either vent the basement like ladder13 or install a radon mitigation fan or open the basement windows more or do nothing.

The problem is if you buy the house now you know there's high radon levels so you'd need to disclose it if you sell the house. Where I live, it's so common people will just say "yeah, whatever." Where you're buying it might be a big deal.

Someone suggested I open my basement windows to air it out and retest. I have a conscience though, so had the fan installed.
The buyers were happy I was upfront, and we're friends 4 years later. :)
 
I'm a belt and suspenders type. If I we're going through with it, I'd want the mitigation done, and then add a heat recovery ventilator to the living space.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
 
Well.... We decided to pull out. I would have been okay with a mitigation system, I think, especially after more research. Realtor told us it is very common in this area, and we were the first clients he has had who have turned down a house for this reason.

On the other hand, my wife was adamant, and we all know what that means. (And, honestly, I have learned to trust her intuition over the years.)

Disappointing, of course. We really loved the place. Real estate deals are often emotional rollercoasters for home buyers, as I'm sure many agree. (My bank accounts are a lot happier though! For an all cash offer, was starting to scrape the bottom of the barrel there!)

I appreciate all the advice, pro and con, from the forum. Made an informed decision easier for us.
 
Basement measurements of Radon are usually highest, as the basement air is stagnant, allowing levels of Rn to accumulate over time. Basement ventilation will usually be adequate to reduce it greatly. It's generally not much of a problem for houses built on slab as the living area will generally be adequately ventilated to prevent Rn buildup. I also believe the hazard of Rn is greatly overblown, and my main concern would be the additional difficulty of your selling that house when the time comes.
 
Last edited:
Argue for a lower price, in the thousands. Once in, install simple air movement equipment such as a low-volume fan and a vent to the outside. Unless you have to cut a hole through concrete it will cost you a couple hundred at most. Let it run 24/7. Retest after about a week and you will be well within limits.

Does the house have a basement or just a crawl space? For a crawlspace, just put in a couple passive vents. The circulation of air will do all you need.

A basement? Use the method I described, or, open your basement door to the outside, if you have one, once every couple weeks and that will dramatically drop the level. Otherwise, install passive vents and point a fan at them every week or so.

I live in an area with what is considered a high level of radon in the rock, and in the water. A number of our neighbors have found a count described as "high". The methods above fixed it for them.

The water is another issue. Those on city water have little problem, though a nearby city, Waukesha WI, is having to build a system that mixes water with a low radon count with their own water, which has a higher count. I'm not sure why private wells have problems. We have our own and I have tested it every five years and it test very low. Maybe because of the rate at which we use water.

Or, you can demand the sellers install a system costing thousands.
 
Back
Top