How do I check the condition of an old revolver before buying?

[VictoryOwner]

Long story, but the time has come for me to replace my 1940-ish 38 S&W, and I'm leaning toward buying a similar S&W revolver in 38 Special that is for sale in a local gun shop.

My problem is that I don't know enough about guns to be able to assess the functionality of an older revolver. Since many members of this forum are very knowledgeable about these guns, I thought I'd ask for pointers.

No, I can't even test fire the gun before buying (the laws are too strict for that where I live), and while I suppose I can trust the salesclerk, you never know.

I've had good luck with older S&W revolvers in the past, and that's a main reason I'm leaning toward this gun instead of some other options. Also, I consider this lineage to be the workhorse of revolvers, and that's what I want. However, it is quite old, and has had plenty of time to develop problems.

From being unable to find a model number on this gun, I infer that it's pre-Model 10. I forgot to count the screws or look at the serial number, but from the general appearance I'd guess that it was probably manufactured around 1940, give or take a decade or so.

Anyway, I'd appreciate any pointers for how to check out the gun before buying. It doesn't have tires that I can kick.

Thanks!

 

[JSR III]

The first thing that I do is check the timing. Make sure the gun is unloaded and then with the cylinder closed and the muzzle pointed in a safe direction, very slowly cock the hammer. When the hammer is fully back and locked, grab the cylinder and see if it moves or is locked in position. Do this for all chambers. If the cylinder moves and then locks, it is "out of time". If it does not move, then timing is good. Another give away is to look at the rear of the cylinder and see if there are any hammer strike marks next to the charge holes. That too is an indicator of the revolver being out of time.

If the gun appears to be sluggish or hard to cock, it may just need a good internal cleaning. That is what I typically look for.

Let us know how you make out and photos are always a plus.....

 

[TheTinMan]

I refer back to this often:
https://www.cactustactical.com/assets/reloadingfiles/sw-inspection-guide.pdf

 

[Moo Moo]

"Dummies Guide to Inspecting a Used Revolver"

 

[BE Mike]

Buying a used gun is like buying a used car. Unless you are a gunsmith/ auto mechanic, get one to look over the item before purchase. If you can't get a gunsmith, get someone very knowledgeable with revolvers to go with you to check it out. It would be worth a steak dinner.

 

[glowe]

A great tutorial can be found by watching the very detailed video: How to Inspect a Smith & Wesson Revolver ~ Know Before You Buy!

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZgsWqHuytN8[/ame]

 

[Matt_X]

From being unable to find a model number on this gun, I infer that it's pre-Model 10. I forgot to count the screws or look at the serial number, but from the general appearance I'd guess that it was probably manufactured around 1940, give or take a decade or so.

Serial number will be on the frame but bottom and under the barrel (visible when the cylinder is swung out.)

If the cylinder is original, you may also find the same on the back of the cylinder when you open it.

No, I can't even test fire the gun before buying (the laws are too strict for that where I live), and while I suppose I can trust the salesclerk, you never know.

I bought my Victory from my local range and doubt they would have let me 'test fire' it either. However they had test fired to make sure it functioned. Which it did, but it was a pretty worn example that had been refinished. That they couldn't help with and I consider them honest, just not experts in mechanics.

Long story, but the time has come for me to replace my 1940-ish 38 S&W, and I'm leaning toward buying a similar S&W revolver in 38 Special that is for sale in a local gun shop.

You have an advantage in that you already have one. My suggestion is to evaluate that one first. That will give you practice under no time or situational pressure.

I've had good luck with older S&W revolvers in the past, and that's a main reason I'm leaning toward this gun instead of some other options. Also, I consider this lineage to be the workhorse of revolvers, and that's what I want. However, it is quite old, and has had plenty of time to develop problems.

Yes - depending its usage and your intended usage.

Hard to know from your post how much mechanical knowledge your bring to the purchase. So in no particular order.

ID.
1. The improved hammer block (in case the gun is dropped from height) began in the Victory series (V Serial number) and will have an S stamp on it.
2. Note the cartridge on the barrel. If you want .38 Special, then make sure its stamped with spcl, not just 38 S&W.
3. Screws. Look for a screw in front of the trigger and one on the top of the side plate by the rear sight. Those are the screws that were eliminated. (Many times the stocks (aka grips) hide the back side plate screw, which I didn't know the first time I tried to count the screws. So don't count, just look for those two)

4. Hammer spur height. Another easy visual clue. Is the spur is high, practically obscuring the rear sight, or is it shorter?


Wear.
1. Perfect finish means either hardly used or carried, or its been refinished. Look for where its worn. There may be a light drag mark on the cylinder side from the stop. Not a problem.
2. Cylinder play. There should be hardly any front to rear play when its closed. The more there is the worse it is. A little bit of rotational play is normal. That is more difficult to describe, but again more is worse. However it should be locked.
3. Timing and lock up. I don't have an easy way to suggest. In a previous post there is a suggestion to make sure the cylinder is locked in position by the stop when the trigger is pulled. That is certainly worth checking if they let you. If you oir they have spent shells that can be put in the chamber, a slight but serious misalignment will show up as a hammer hit off the primer on the back of shell.
4. Cylinder and yoke alignment. The thumb latch should push forward smoothly and the cylinder open easily.

 

[delcrossv]

S&W rim fire revolvers have always used in-frame firing pins, as have other gun manufacturers

As any Ladysmith owner knows, that's not really the case.

 

[4K2022]

All the questions anyone could possibly have about a Smith & Wesson is in the text of the threads on this site! The only reason there’s “platinum” under my username is because I value the information so freely given by so many. I consider it a privilege to rub “cyber elbows” with such knowledge (gun guys) collectors.

 

[VictoryOwner]

Thanks all, lots of good advice here.

Alas, I found out today that a government clerk screwed up one of many steps in my permit process. Until that's fixed, my gun shopping is on hold.

However, as Matt X pointed out, I already have a very similar revolver, so I just went through most of the inspection steps with it as practice. I'd never done that before, and it was kind of fun.