How Do I Get This Clean?

Joined
Nov 26, 2007
Messages
805
Reaction score
1,251
Location
Rocky Mtns
Gents, I've been shooting a a ton of cast bullets with my 586 lately.

I've scrubbed at this with Hoppes No. 9 to no effect past this point. I know I can't take a Birchwood Casey Lead-Away cloth to it without removing the bluing.

Anyone got any recipes or solutions that will get this lead off the front edge of the cylinder and the residue out of the flutes?
 

Attachments

  • lead.jpg
    lead.jpg
    111.6 KB · Views: 387
Register to hide this ad
Do you get any excessive spitting when you shoot? That kind of leading can be an indication of an alignment problem where the bullet gets a shave as it enters the forcing cone. If not, you'll just need to do a cleaning every hundred rounds or so to keep ahead of the build up.
 
Last edited:
A 100% Cotton Flannel cloth and CLP (or most any gun oil) will work fine. Usually your thumb nail with the cloth over it will remove it in short order. I find rubbing it one way (toward the muzzle) works better. If you need to be a little more aggressive, a nylon toothbrush with some CLP on it works too. In all my years shooting (50+) I have never needed to go further and 99% of the time the oil rag is all I need on a warm gun.

HINT: As SOON as you are done shooting pull out your designated oil soaked Flannel range rag from your zip lock bag and wipe the gun down. It is a lot easier to remove deposits when the gun is still arm and they are still fresh.
 
Sometimes I have used a heat gun to heat it up and it helps a lot

After shooting a revolver at the range just take 2 minutes when it's still warm and it should come off with the oil soaked flannel cloth.

If you REALLY have stubborn debris, take a Chop Stick and sharpen it to a point in a pencil sharpener. Use the point to push off any stuck on carbon or lead. The wooden Chop Stick will not harm the finish because it is much softer. Do this in the direction of the muzzle and go at an angle. This Chop Stick tool works great in many other aspects when cleaning firearms because it won't harm finishes and metal. Handy little tools - also good for eating - LOL!! :D
 
That lead bullet residue is a bear to remove, and makes the gun difficult to clean. My 686 would get so gummed up, I quit shooting lead. All I shoot regularly now is FMJ stuff. However, for my bedside home protection, my speed loader is stoked with 158 gr round nose lead. :D
 
Last edited:
After shooting a revolver at the range just take 2 minutes when it's still warm and it should come off with the oil soaked flannel cloth.

If you REALLY have stubborn debris, take a Chop Stick and sharpen it to a point in a pencil sharpener. Use the point to push off any stuck on carbon or lead. The wooden Chop Stick will not harm the finish because it is much softer. Do this in the direction of the muzzle and go at an angle. This Chop Stick tool works great in many other aspects when cleaning firearms because it won't harm finishes and metal. Handy little tools - also good for eating - LOL!! :D

I keep a couple of chop sticks in my range box They do come in handy
 
make sure your bullets are not too oversized this will get worse as bullets used are too big
 
You don't, unless you plan to never shoot it again. If you do plan to shoot it again, then why bother? That said, Jerry Miculek has a video on how he cleans his competition revolvers, which he seems to do only every several thousand rounds. His model 64, so dirty from lead reloads that it looked parkerized, was clean, including the crud on the cylinder, in minutes.
 
Remove the cylinder and soak in Kroil at least overnight. Kroil is highly penetrating and should get under the fouling.
I tried this and it did nothing . I feel that Kroil is way overrated for cleaning purposes.
 
Back
Top