How hard is it to instal a crane lock??

RightWinger

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I see brownells has a drilling fixture they sell, but I am not sure if this would be a really complicated process for a gunsmith or if its something I could do myself.
 
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I see brownells has a drilling fixture they sell, but I am not sure if this would be a really complicated process for a gunsmith or if its something I could do myself.
 
If you are talking about drilling the crane for a detent spring and ball like the kit that Brownells sells I have installed them by just putting the crane in a vise and making sure you can drill deep enough with out breaking thru the side of the crane. I found it was harder to put the ball recess in the frame. I use a Brideport milling machine to do this. It dosent take to hard a hit to stake the ball and spring in place.
 
Hi RW,
As far as the recess in the frame, I have always installed the detent ball in the crane and applied a marking fluid to the frame. Open and close the crane and the detent will leave a mark in the fluid.
Then I take a Dremel and small ball cutter and make a recess in the frame for the detent at the end of the mark left by the detent.
The jig is not a bad thing. I have done over a dozen and never found the need for it.
On the other hand if I had one I'd use it.
The whole process is pretty simple.
Good luck
Mike
 
Here is my 66 with one it looks like it focused on the barrel rather than the detent ball
PICT0261.jpg
. The reason for this detent ball is because I replaced the 66 snubbie barrel with a 681 barrel and the center to center distance on the K is shoreter than the L frame there is no rod in my barrel its been removed.
 
what is the benefit of the ball detent over the factory lock. I'm fairly new to revolvers. Does the ball detent replace the factory lock.
 
Originally posted by gamedic:
what is the benefit of the ball detent over the factory lock. I'm fairly new to revolvers. Does the ball detent replace the factory lock.

It's supposed to hold everything in better, more positive, alignment.

Most I've seen, work, in addition too, the factory "lock".

I think the theaory is sound, functionality is questionable. I have a 625 bull barrel with a double ball detent, lockup. its a PITA to open. It takes considerably more force then you would think. The thing is SCARY accurate though, built by Volquartzen.
 
Howdy gamedic,
Most PPC, NRA action or other competition revolvers that take a aftermarket bbl wont have the factory lock up at the front of the ejector rod any longer. (Not all but most)
I also use dual detents when I have to install one anymore.
Hope this helps you.
Thanks
Mike
 
The principal involved is that the forward locking bolt increases the friction on the extractor rod, therefore making a smooth & light DA more problematical. With a ball detent installed, and the forward locking bolt removed, the crane is securely supported and the cylinder held in alignment minus the extractor rod friction.

You will notice that the classic Colt DA guns are all missing the forward locking point. That is because the Colt action cycles the cylinder clockwise, and the hand against the ratchet in the direction of cycling closes the crane-to-frame gap.

The S&W & Ruger actions nominally need a forward locking bolt to hold the crane closed because they cycle anticlockwise, and the movement of the hand against the ratchet tends to open the crane-to-frame gap.
 
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