How in the world? Cleaning?

[k22fan]

I had a couple of thin brass sheets of different thicknesses from another project and I've cut them into scrapers and long skinny triangles and use those for a number of crud-removal applications including the area above the forcing cone.

Good idea. I'll snip some pieces off my scrap sheet brass and add them to my cleaning kit.

Ultrasonic Cleaner

in S&W-Smithing Forum !

The dollars spent buying an ultrasonic cleaner are good money that could go towards a baddly needed rolleyes additional revolver.

Doesn't anybody own a toothbrush? That's all I use on all my revolvers to clean the top strap and forcing cone area.

Brush on some Hoppes or Shooter's Choice , let it sit, scrub with toothbrush and if you want to get fancy, use some compressed air to blast out the moisture.

Good-to-go.

You must not shoot many lead bullets. You'd be scrubbing for months wearing out toothbrushes before you got my 617 spotless.

I've used a variety of implements, from the thin stiff brush out of Brownells, to those dental picks, ultrasound, various tooth brush tools, folded over cotton handkerchief, home made dental floss, and certain thickness nylon tie-down straps. They all have advantages.

There's some ideas to try.

Stuff like this here:

I just use a dental pick, it chips off really easily. I get the big chunks off, no need to get it perfectly smooth. Better than flame cutting-not likely on the 617!

That 617's just barely started to accumulate lead between its barrel and top strap! By the time I get around to cleaning it out I often can't see light between the barrel & top strap looking trom the side.

 

[ohiococonut]

Kano Kroil mixed 50/50 with your favorite cleaning solvent and a tooth brush or a lead cleaning cloth from Birchwood Casey. Either will clean it off quicker without scratching.

 

[wantmoresmiths]

Take a 38 special case, and squeeze it in a vice so that it forms a flat blade which can be used to scrape the heavy lead deposits as shown by Rodentman. The brass is softer than the stainless, and therefore should not scratch the stainless. I only scrape the heavy deposits every 1000 rounds or so.

 

[photoman]

You're supposed to clean that? I remember John Taffin saying that more good Smith & Wessons have been ruined by over-cleaning than anything else.

 

[REM 3200]

Doesn't anybody own a toothbrush? That's all I use on all my revolvers to clean the top strap and forcing cone area.

Brush on some Hoppes or Shooter's Choice , let it sit, scrub with toothbrush and if you want to get fancy, use some compressed air to blast out the moisture.

Good-to-go.

Yeah, I own a toothbrush, but I find that I don't like the taste of Hoppes when I brush my teeth.

 

[Snapping Twig]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Snapping Twig
Doesn't anybody own a toothbrush? That's all I use on all my revolvers to clean the top strap and forcing cone area.

Brush on some Hoppes or Shooter's Choice , let it sit, scrub with toothbrush and if you want to get fancy, use some compressed air to blast out the moisture.

Good-to-go.

------------------

You must not shoot many lead bullets. You'd be scrubbing for months wearing out toothbrushes before you got my 617 spotless.

------------------

HA HA, most amusing.

All I shoot is home cast and a lot of it.

Looking at that image, I'd say you have a forcing cone/timing/alignment issue, that forcing cone looks rough around the edges. Get it recut and the timing and cylinder alignment checked. Leading like that isn't normal. Your bullets are getting shaved as they enter.

 

[russp1]

Hoppe's #9 solvent and a nylon brush are all I use on both our new 442 and 642 and our 1930 model 1905. I'd hate to use something much stiffer and end up taking off finish. I guess a brash brush might be OK too.

 

[giddyupsut]

I use dental floss.
No need for the mint though....unless you want it.

 

[sjmjax]

I made a simple little tool that has been very handy for this and similar duties.

Took a brass patch jag, the type that is a flat blade with a slot in it, and pounded it a bit flatter with hammer. Then shaped it with some files into a flat, sharp edged scrapper. Then screwed it into a short piece of old cleaning rod.

Works great for what you describe as well as removing lead from other areas like around the corner between the top strap and recoil shield. Lots of crud builds up there as well. Doesn't damage stainless or blueing.

Use it often and resharpen it with a file or sandpaper as needed.

 

[mrerick]

Very chinese scraping tool!

I collect a few bamboo chop sticks whenever I go to my favorite chinese restaurant.

You can form a variety of sharpened flat shapes at the tip by cutting across the bamboo with a razor blade. I shape some line a "V" Others like a "7".

They are much stronger than tooth picks and more resilient. They make good non-scratching scrapers and pushing tools.

Marc

 

[Lou_NC]

Take a 38 special case, and squeeze it in a vice so that it forms a flat blade which can be used to scrape the heavy lead deposits as shown by Rodentman. The brass is softer than the stainless, and therefore should not scratch the stainless. I only scrape the heavy deposits every 1000 rounds or so.

I use the same approach, only my "tool" was made by using a .223 case. I like the longer "handle"!

Works great on both SS and blued guns, brass won't hurt the blued surface.

Lou

 

[RGPM1A]

Get an old BRASS 223, 30 '06 or 308, or 7.62 shell and crush the mouth in a vise or with a hammer. Used military rifle brass is always laying around at an outdoor range. Makes a great, sharp no marring scraper. A 30 '06 length shell is best because the shell makes a great handle.

 

[Bert Man]

Take a 38 special case, and squeeze it in a vice so that it forms a flat blade which can be used to scrape the heavy lead deposits as shown by Rodentman. The brass is softer than the stainless, and therefore should not scratch the stainless. I only scrape the heavy deposits every 1000 rounds or so.

This. I use a .223/.556 case with case neck flattened. Works great, won't scratch, can't beat the price.

 

[K1500]

I collect a few bamboo chop sticks whenever I go to my favorite chinese restaurant.

You can form a variety of sharpened flat shapes at the tip by cutting across the bamboo with a razor blade. I shape some line a "V" Others like a "7".

They are much stronger than tooth picks and more resilient. They make good non-scratching scrapers and pushing tools.

Marc

This, but I sharpen them in a pencil sharpener in my shop. I scrape mine when the gap is totally full and I don't obsess over the last bit I can't get off.

 

[Corinto]

Check out YouTube videos on a gun cleaning product called Ballistol. It has been used for about 100 years and not only is it great for cleaning the crud out of guns, it is also a lubricant.

 

[Corinto]

The best video on Ballistol that I've found so far can be viewed by Googling: revolver cleaning by hickok45

 

[psychephylax]

Does anyone have tips or suggestions on how to clean the cylinder end of the barrel? I have a used 625 that has a good amount of leading in the beginning of the barrel that I'd like to clean off. I got a good amount of the leading/carbon off the rest of the gun with the Birchwood Casey Lead Remover cloth but it doesn't seem to be making much of a dent in the carbon/lead buildup in the beginning of the barrel.

I'm used to dealing with semi-auto pistols where you can just take the barrel out and soak it in Hoppe's #9 for a couple of days to get all that gunk out but barrels on revolvers aren't so easily removable.

 

[ladder13]

Doesn't anybody own a toothbrush?.

Guess it depends on what state you live in.

 

[markeb]

ladder13, Don't be making fun of Kentucky. I know," that was out of line".

 

[DonD]

Life is short. Cleaning, and recleaning, and recleaning, and then once again cleaning that area is futile. The accumulation is normal, especially with .22s. I have a 617, and lots of others. I keep them clean, but do not remove every trace of lead and carbon from that specific area every time I shoot each one.

I used to be fussy about stains on the face of the cylinder of stainless guns like my Model 500s and a couple Rugers. Decided it was not worth the effort on a regular basis. Seldom do it anymore as it doesn't ever affect function or anything else that I can notice. Don