How much does the 15 Sport Buffer Weight

[C4IGrant]

Grover,

I offered the chart to visually show the difference in pressure between a rifle length and carbine length gas system. You can see that the carbine approaches twice the rifle.

A statement that "So when you look at people adding H, H2 or H3 buffers and think that they are changing the reliability of their AR (in a negative way), think again" is patently false. I should have my 20" rifle length system up and running within a couple weeks. I am using a carbine weight buffer, not because it's "cheap" but because I expect it to run fine with that weight. Since that is the "cheap" way to go, should I use, say, an H2 (heavier is more expensive=better, right?). Heck no, using an H2 my new system would probably choke, maybe not cycle at all. So can you affect the reliability of your AR by installing too heavy a buffer? The answer is maybe, and as you install heavier buffers, the answer approaches certainly.

The weight of the A2 buffer and the H3 buffer are almost identical (FYI).


C4

 

[Stebo]

The weight of the A2 buffer and the H3 buffer are almost identical (FYI).


C4

And the A2 tube/spring is 1.5" longer than carbine tube/spring (FYI). Apples and oranges.

 

[C4IGrant]

And the A2 tube/spring is 1.5" longer than carbine tube/spring (FYI). Apples and oranges.

You comment implied that an H2 buffer would cause short stroking in a rifle length gas system due to the weight. I simply stated that the A2 and H3 are the same in weight.



C4

 

[MichiganScott]

When we add heavier buffers to guns it is to reduce felt recoil, lower the cyclic rate and slow down the unlock time of the bolt. On top of this, if you are using a Suppressor, you would change that H buffer to an H2 or H3 (depending on barrel length) to help slow down the bolt head speed thusly making the gun more reliable.
C4

I'd bet full auto cyclic rate and suppressor back pressure is beyond the scope of most discussion on this board. However, other items that are seldom considered during any discussion of dwell time and "over and under gassed" are the total weight of the bolt carrier group and the compression rating of various rebound springs. Changes in either could increase or decrease the bolt head speed.

More importantly, I have never seen any discussion of powder burn rate and port pressure. Any of us that are old enough to remember when the M16 was first fielded and the powder was changed to a burn rate different than the design specifications well understand exactly how that will affect function.

I cut my reloading teeth on M1 Garands. Too slow a powder will damage the platform by "over-gassing" the system. Too fast a powder will cause short stroke malfunctions by "under-gassing". The DGI operating system of the AR15 is much more forgiving, but you can change the functioning by altering the powder burn rate.

 

[JaPes]

Even though Grant and I disagree on some things, I'd still buy from his store.

Prices are decent. More important is that the business owner is active on this board. Most guys would be happy to take my money and not converse with me.

 

[C4IGrant]

I'd bet full auto cyclic rate and suppressor back pressure is beyond the scope of most discussion on this board. However, other items that are seldom considered during any discussion of dwell time and "over and under gassed" are the total weight of the bolt carrier group and the compression rating of various rebound springs. Changes in either could increase or decrease the bolt head speed.

I built a dedicated suppressed 10.5 several years ago. I selected an out of spec GP size (too small to cycle the gun reliably). I then put a suppressor on the gun and used an LMT FA Enhanced Carrier. The suppressor generated enough back pressure to not only cycle the gun, but to lock it back on the last round! The LMT enhanced carrier has three vent holes in it to remove more of the excess gas (instead of just blowing it into the receiver). This combo proved to be a VERY reliable setup (probably the most reliable gun I have ever built).

It would be interesting to mess with faster and slower burning powders to see what that does!



C4

 

[C4IGrant]

Even though Grant and I disagree on some things, I'd still buy from his store.

Prices are decent. More important is that the business owner is active on this board. Most guys would be happy to take my money and not converse with me.

Thanks. We are gun guys and shooters just like you folks are. I enjoy sharing information and learning (which is what forums are about).



C4

 

[SickMAK90]

I really think people tend to over think the buffer "issue". I am currently only running CAR buffers because I actually get better reliability with them in my Spike's 14.5'' middy. I do have a couple spikes T2 buffers I may try in my sport, but running cheap ammo in a 14.5'' middy seems to want a lighter buffer.

My very first AR was a RRA 16'' CAR with a non chrome lined bore/chamber running a generic stock and CAR buffer. That was the most reliable and accurate AR I have ever owned. We used to shoot 500 rounds a day with that thing without a hiccup. This was before p-mags, and I was running a CAR buffer with SA bolt carrier with wolf ammo. According to the internet my rifle should not have worked. In four range sessions I shot 2k rounds of wolf with no cleaning or lube and it still ran like a top.

 

[C4IGrant]

I really think people tend to over think the buffer "issue". I am currently only running CAR buffers because I actually get better reliability with them in my Spike's 14.5'' middy. I do have a couple spikes T2 buffers I may try in my sport, but running cheap ammo in a 14.5'' middy seems to want a lighter buffer.

That's because 14.5" AR's barely run do to the lack of dwell time. So a car buffer does make sense in this gun (especially with **** ammo).

My very first AR was a RRA 16'' CAR with a non chrome lined bore/chamber running a generic stock and CAR buffer. That was the most reliable and accurate AR I have ever owned. We used to shoot 500 rounds a day with that thing without a hiccup. This was before p-mags, and I was running a CAR buffer with SA bolt carrier with wolf ammo. According to the internet my rifle should not have worked. In four range sessions I shot 2k rounds of wolf with no cleaning or lube and it still ran like a top.

All AR's will run with a CAR buffer. The reason why manufacturers use them is because they are CHEAP. RRA AR's are typically over gassed and bet you could use an H3 buffer (and it would run).


C4

 

[Hoss0432]

I run a 5 oz buffer in my m&p 15A. Gun ran fine with the stock car buffer but the ejected brass hit the deflector so hard it put a sever dent in it. Switched the buffer to a 5oz and the dent is now just a mark. Works best for me since I reload the dent made me think it would be weak in that spot.