formernuke
Member
Title pretty much says it. Wondering how wet or dry these things work best with.
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How much lubrication does the 15-22 like
- Thread starter formernuke
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Rem oil works well for me. Hoppes number 9 works too
Don't over lube though. A bit of lube on the bolt is good
erick1987
Member
I use break free clp. Spray down the bolt and breech then wipe it down real good. A little bit of clp on a bore snake and run it through the barrel a few times.
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jagular
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The 15-22 only really needs a bit of oil/grease lubricant on the bolt rails. Regular cleaning of the bolt, feed ramp, barrel, etc. with clp or solvent should be done as needed to keep it from malfunctioning. I clean and lube it after every outing but that is just personal preference.
Majorlk
Member
Most shooters overlubricate their firearms. All that does is attract unburned powder and other debris.
A couple of drops of your favorite lubricant on the rails, a single small drop on the extractor pivot pin and another on the bolt stop release is all the lube that is necessary. The fit of the bolt in the upper receiver is so loose that any lube on the bolt is simply wasted.
The old rule applies: if you can see lub on the surface, you probably used too much.
A couple of drops of your favorite lubricant on the rails, a single small drop on the extractor pivot pin and another on the bolt stop release is all the lube that is necessary. The fit of the bolt in the upper receiver is so loose that any lube on the bolt is simply wasted.
The old rule applies: if you can see lub on the surface, you probably used too much.
smokindog
Member
No fair, you read the manual
Lubricate metal parts by wiping them with a cloth dampened with a high quality gun oil. Remove excess oil. Leave a light film of oil on all metal parts of your rifle - inside & out.
Most shooters overlubricate their firearms. All that does is attract unburned powder and other debris.
A couple of drops of your favorite lubricant on the rails, a single small drop on the extractor pivot pin and another on the bolt stop release is all the lube that is necessary. The fit of the bolt in the upper receiver is so loose that any lube on the bolt is simply wasted.
The old rule applies: if you can see lub on the surface, you probably used too much.
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photoracer
Member
Even that much oil can be too much if used in competition speed shooting. I clean everything with Eezox because it leaves a dry lube on the metal after wiping it off. I put a little on the bolt rails and don't wipe it off. I run my boresnake thru only one time and dry. The lube from the ammo should keep the barrel lubed and clean as it is, that is why it is on there. I do it about every 1000-2000 rounds at most. But if forced to use dirty ammo like Remington in practice due to the shortage I will clean it more often. My normal cleaning is based on using CCI ammo.
Majorlk
Member
No fair, you read the manual
Lubricate metal parts by wiping them with a cloth dampened with a high quality gun oil. Remove excess oil. Leave a light film of oil on all metal parts of your rifle - inside & out.
I never leave a visible coating of oil on the outside of any firearm except for long-term storage. It serves no useful purpose for an in-use firearm. I never leave lube on the bolt or any other moving part except rails. If I can see it, it's too much. That's not a trite saying; it's a practical truth.
After cleaning, I wipe down the exterior with a silicone rag to remove fingerprints and other surface contaminants.
CrazyFingers
Member
Keep in mind that the 15-22 is not an AR-15, and doesn't need the bolt/bolt carrier to be well lubricated. As others have mentioned, a drop on each of the bolt carrier rails and perhaps on the extractor pivot should keep things running smoothly.
Majorlk
Member
Exactly! The 15-22 is an AR-pattern rifle, not an AR clone.
Rundover
Member
Dupont Teflon Chain Saver, dry, self-cleaning lubricant is what I use. Every once in a while I dissemble the FCG and bolt assembly and clean, polish if necessary, and then spray on the Teflon coating, let set and wipe off. This leaves a non-stick Teflon coating on all the metal parts. It's dry and it doesn't attract dirt so you can just blow dirt away after use. The parts are slicker than snot so the action works very smoothly. beats dealing with messy lubricant.
BlueLizard
Member
Once I finish off my stash of Breakfree CLP, it'll be Froglube all the way. Already using it on my CZ bolt action, and it makes the cleaning process much easier (and more palatable for my wife when I'm cleaning rifles on the dining table!). Less is more - a 4oz tub of Froglube will keep me going (cleaning all my guns) for ages! 
shadow53
Member
Once I finish off my stash of Breakfree CLP, it'll be Froglube all the way. Already using it on my CZ bolt action, and it makes the cleaning process much easier (and more palatable for my wife when I'm cleaning rifles on the dining table!). Less is more - a 4oz tub of Froglube will keep me going (cleaning all my guns) for ages!
I gave away all my stinky solvents & sprays and have been using the FrogLube on everything for over a year now... Love it!
Majorlk
Member
I'll have to try this.
That is interesting to see how it works. I have used White Lightning Clean Ride on my bicycle chains for a couple of years now but never thought about putting it on a firearm. It is more like a lubricating wax and is designed to shed dirt and grime. I use it on my mountain bike going through mud, dirt, water and everything else with no issues. Ill have to try some next time I head to the range.
Although now after looking at it, I'm not liking the flammable warning....lol
ballistictoyz
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I like graphite,doesn't catch any grit
Rundover
Member
The flammability is probably due to the propellent and not necessarily the lube. Read the label, it should tell you.
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