How much will it cost to have the IL professionally removed?

[brad b]

Can a gun smith remove the IL off of my 642? What kind of price can I expect pay for this service if it can be done? Thanks

 

[brad b]

Can a gun smith remove the IL off of my 642? What kind of price can I expect pay for this service if it can be done? Thanks

 

[GatorFarmer]

Yes, they can. Or you can do it yourself. There used to be a sticky in the revolver section regarding how to go about it. Some gunsmiths are reluctant to tamper with a "safety function" out of fear of liability. Should run under fifty bucks I'd think if you find someone willing to do it.

 

[Double-O-Dave]

As others have pointed out, the IL is not a safety device, but a storage device. You might have better luck with a gunsmith with that approach. Me, I removed mine in it's entirety and did a quick debur and lube of the insides of my 642 in less than an hour, and that's because I was taking my time. Gatorfarmer is correct, if you check the Gun Smithing folder you should find plenty of help there.

Best of luck,

Dave

 

[John R]

Originally posted by brad b:How much will it cost to have the IL professionally removed?

Thought you were talking about removing Illinois.

 

[tom turner]

Hi,

It might be cheaper, AND more satisfying to you, to sell the IL gun and get a fine vintage S&W of the same model . . .

No MIM parts, a pinned barrel, better bluing, stocks numbered to the gun . . .

That's what I'd do. The money you could get for your nearly new model would probably come close to getting you a vintage one.

These revolvers are out there too.

Here's one I bought from a forum member in the classifieds here last year. I've put the original stocks up for safekeeping.

It was the like new nightstand gun of her second husband . . . and she outlived all three!

T.

 

[John R]

Very nice!

 

[Ma-S&W]

my local gunsmith charged me 45 bucks and installed a slightly lighter spring as well, which makes double action shooting much smoother

 

[Electraclyde]

I did mine myself, it took less than an hour. Somewhere on this forum are very helpful pics.
A local gunsmith would have done it for $50.00
I was just to cheap to pay that.

 

[johngalt]

I asked a gunshop here in OH about removing the lock from my 642. He claimed it was illegal for him to do it, but it was ok for me to do it.

I'm not sure why he thinks it's illegal, sounds like BS to me. I suspect the more likely reason is he doesn't want to be exposed to any potential liability.

 

[Pioneer461]

Originally posted by johngalt:
I asked a gunshop here in OH about removing the lock from my 642. He claimed it was illegal for him to do it, but it was ok for me to do it.

I'm not sure why he thinks it's illegal, sounds like BS to me. I suspect the more likely reason is he doesn't want to be exposed to any potential liability.

I don't think it is illegal, but it will void the warranty. I paid $40. to have mine removed.

 

[John R]

You guy's that have had them removed, what did you do about the hole, and that slot cut next to the hammer?

That part that's cut out of the frame next to the hammer bothers me the most.

 

[Nanook 450]

Originally posted by Pioneer461:

Originally posted by johngalt:
I asked a gunshop here in OH about removing the lock from my 642. He claimed it was illegal for him to do it, but it was ok for me to do it.

I'm not sure why he thinks it's illegal, sounds like BS to me. I suspect the more likely reason is he doesn't want to be exposed to any potential liability.

I don't think it is illegal, but it will void the warranty. I paid $40. to have mine removed.

According to a Smith & Wesson rep visiting H&H Gun Range, removing or disabling the lock does not void the warranty.

The quick fix is to remove the flag and file off the stud, then put it all back. I've had the hole filled on a 629 and it looks good, but cost a bit.

 

[Double-O-Dave]

Originally posted by John R:
You guy's that have had them removed, what did you do about the hole, and that slot cut next to the hammer?

That part that's cut out of the frame next to the hammer bothers me the most.

John R,

My J frames are Centennials, so there is no exposed hammer on either of them (432 and a 642). The 642 is a pre-lock. The 432 is my EDC. I removed the IL in its entirety and haven't worried one bit about the extra holes. Perhaps this summer when I have some idle time, I'll develop a patch for the holes. Until then, the extra holes don't bother me at all.

Regards,

Dave

 

[Nanook 450]

For five bucks my gunsmith removes the flag, files off the lock stud and puts it all back.

For $100 he can make the whole and the slot almost disappear on a stainless gun, would be more on a blued gun, because to really make it disappear, the gun would need re-bluing.

 

[myanof]

Originally posted by John R:
You guy's that have had them removed, what did you do about the hole, and that slot cut next to the hammer?

That part that's cut out of the frame next to the hammer bothers me the most.

If you just remove the nub as shown in the picture, the lock is deactivated and the hole remains. That's what I did and it works great.