How old is this revolver? What does CTG mean?

Nice revolver. I have a Model 18 and found that it does not like lead ammunition at all. The barrel leads up quickly and accuracy goes to hell. Since you can get about 500 rounds of copper plated ammunition for around $25.00, spend the extra dough and get better ammunition.

Stay away from Remington Thunderbird .22LR. The only thing that runs well in is my Ruger 10/22.

Enjoy that fine firearm, I know I enjoy my Model 18.
 
What brands or types of ammunition are copper plated aluminum? Is that what the Remington 22 Golden Bullet is?
 
What brands or types of ammunition are copper plated aluminum? Is that what the Remington 22 Golden Bullet is?

I'm not aware of any copper plated aluminum, I at least was referring to copper plated lead.

When I referred to lead ammunition, I was referring to non copper plated lead ammunition.

I made the error of assuming you knew what I was talking about when I said lead vs. copper.
 
Gary S - Sorry, I read your reply quickly and misread ammunition as aluminum. My mistake. How can I tell which ammunition is copper plated? Can you give some examples?
 
Gary S - Sorry, I read your reply quickly and misread ammunition as aluminum. My mistake. How can I tell which ammunition is copper plated? Can you give some examples?

I can only tell you how I tell. I look at the box or the ammo and if it's copper colored, it's copper plated or copper washed. Someone else will have to explain the difference between those two because I haven't figure it out yet.

Also, the boxes will tell you if they are copper or lead.

As others have said, you are going to love that revolver.
 
What's the difference between a Model 35 and a 34 (which I have)?
The thing I like about my .22 spinner is that I can shoot the cheap stuff; it's not bothered by T-bolt.
 
Sorry, but my attempt to use text to show what the rectangular marks look like didn't work. I'm attaching a small file that shows about where the marks are located. They vary in size my than my sketch, and some of them have a line horizontally across the middle - almost like an 8.

That serial # puts your gun in the 1971 period.

The 5 digit number on the left side is a factory assembly match # that is also on the inside of the sideplate and on the yoke. It's used to get the parts of the gun back together again when they are separated during production. These have been used from the very earliest at the factory.

The other stampings are inspectors' approval marks as it goes thru various stages of production/inspection. Yet others are code stamps that identify the frame for various things, i.e., to be assembled as a .22 or .32, or as a stainless gun since the stainless guns and carbon steel guns are indistinguishable before bluing and a SS gun would need all SS parts fitted to it.

Thru the years these marks changed quite a bit but current revolvers seem to have more marks than ever before which probably add to production efficiency and accuracy. Bottom line is they aren't important.

P.S. Don't take the comments about the CTG seriously, it's just part of the comaraderie and picking on the Newbies.
 
What's the difference between a Model 35 and a 34 (which I have)?
The thing I like about my .22 spinner is that I can shoot the cheap stuff; it's not bothered by T-bolt.

Only the barrel length & grip shape.

The Mod 34 22/32 Kit Gun comes w/2" and 4" barrels, rd or sq butt.
The Mod 35 22/32 Target comes only with 6" and sq butt.
 
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Only the barrel length grip shape.

The Mod 34 22/32 Kit Gun comes w/2" and 4" barrels, rd or sq butt.
The Mod 35 22/32 Target comes only with 6" and sq butt.
Thank you; they really are sweet little guns. I'm very partial to 6-shot .22s; IMO, there's something wrong about 8-10 shot revolvers.
For those who do like them, though, have fun with them often and safely!
 
I don't mind being picked on as a Newbie. I feel like I'm going to have so much fun, that a little teasing isn't going to discourage me.

I want to ask a question about the 2 sets of grips. When I bought the gun, it had the larger grips installed, and they felt pretty comfortable. When I removed them to see the serial number and tried the smaller grips, I was really surprised that they also felt comfortable. My teenage daughter liked the smaller grips, but I feel that I could probably shoot with either.

What are the advantages of using the larger or smaller grips for target shooting? Is it just comfort?
 
Grips = Stocks

Welcome to the forum. What you need to do is decide which of those grips (stocks) are the most comfortable. Those are the ones you will want to use. Then box up the other set and send them to me:D
 
When I bought my M34, I also picked up a set of grips that gave the little gun the same feel as a K-frame, so it could stand in for two different sized guns. That might be what the grips you have do also.
 
I don't recall ever wondering what CTG meant. I am pretty sure I figured it out in about 2/5 of a second the first time I saw it.
 
I don't recall ever wondering what CTG meant. I am pretty sure I figured it out in about 2/5 of a second the first time I saw it.

Give the guy a break, he's only trying to learn. And i have faith that one day he will be as brilliant as you.
 
Thanks again for all of your comments. But I've got to ask another question that will show my lack of knowledge. What's the difference between a K frame (mentioned by shep854) and a J frame (mentioned by gunlovingirl) ?
 
The k frame is slightly bigger than the j frame.You might want to buy several boxes of various brands of ammunition to start with.Some 22s can be very particular about the ammo they shoot the tightest groups with.
 
Thanks again for all of your comments. But I've got to ask another question that will show my lack of knowledge. What's the difference between a K frame (mentioned by shep854) and a J frame (mentioned by gunlovingirl) ?

J frame
orig.jpg


K frame
IMG_0304.jpg
 
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