How to get Tru Oil to dry?

[hibbs]

Try a product called Velvet Oil, made in Wisconsin.Available in many woodworking supply stores.I use it professionally, on high end custom furniture and really like the results. Any questions-contact me by [email protected]

 

[snowman]

Well, thanks again to all who have responded. I've not done much wood finishing in my life, and so am largely dependent on experienced people.

I chose Tru Oil after reading a couple of other threads here in which virtually every participant sang its praises. Wouldn't you know it; I buy some and start to use the stuff and run into several veterans of stock finishing who don't recommend it. Oh well; when we have tens of thousands of members, that's the way it will be, I guess.

I could get some Tung Oil, but I very seriously doubt that I'll be doing much more finishing. Anything I would buy would likely just sit on the shelf the rest of my days with little of it used. If it's available in just a few ounces, as the Tru Oil is, I might be more interested.

I'm not super picky about how the finish looks; I just know that I prefer a glossier surface, not just because I like the look of it better, but more importantly because I can grip it better. I had a satin-finished Hogue wood grip on a 686 for awhile, but it is just too slippery for me; I was afraid I would drop it someday at the range, which wouldn't be good at all. The S&W checkered grips would solve this problem, but I don't like checkering on a revolver grip. That's why I've been replacing all of them with smooth targets.

Listen to this: one of the posters here said that he called Birchwood Casey and they recommended adding Japan Drier to Tru Oil to help with the drying issue. Out of curiosity I just called them a little bit ago, and the person I talked to said that that wouldn't work, because Tru Oil is a water-based finish!!! In a good-natured voice I said, "Oh, so the name is misleading(Tru-Oil). I also read the label back to the person: "Its unique blend of linseed and natural oils dries fast..." She nevertheless insisted that it is a water-based product. What do you think about that? I was going to get some Japan Drier this evening, but now I'm not so sure. However I can't help but think the lady on the phone was mistaken.

This sure makes being a consumer frustrating; but if that is the worst problem I have today, I will count my blessings.

Thanks again, friends. I'll review all your suggestions again, and I'm sure something will work for me.
Andy

 

[crsides]

This same thread ran thru the Shotgun message boards 10 yrs ago. I see not much has changed. What I learned then was that tru-oil doesn't keep well, ie once its opened the driers evaporate. The best solution was to use it once and throw it away. problem solved ( in most cases). Others like me who hate to waste things (read cheap here), found ways to fill the bottle back to the top, keeping the air out and driers in. Take most any inert material that will go thru the top of the bottle and add it to the tru-oil to bring the level back up to the top. One guy used marbles, others used nuts, bolts, empty brass shells ... you get the picture. Make sure they are clean. The Japan drier was mentioned but I could never find any, and most places I asked looked at me like I was crazy.

I use the "add stuff to the bottle" method and have no problems with drying in two hrs.


Charlie

 

[G.T. Smith]

I always use Formby's tung oil. You gotta get all the original finish off. It usually dries in 12 hours so I let it set for 24 hours between coats, using fine steel wool between coats as well. If you don't dig the glossy look hit it with the steel wool after the last coat dries for a satiny finish.
peace,
gordon

 

[maglvr]

I have refinished hundreds of rifle/shotgun & handgun stocks through the years, as well as hundreds of pieces of antiques.
I have never known anything to speed the drying time of any varnish-type finish faster than sunshine and a natural breeze.
Even a fan induced breeze indoors can't come close.
Just one more thing Mommy Nature can't be beat at!