how to install stock medallions

[daveboy]

This is probably a simple procedure, but I thought I'd ask before I screw something up. I am replacing the medallions on some target stocks. I've removed the old ones by grinding off the peened area held by the washers. Is there any "trick" to installing the new medallions? I'm planning to mount something in the vice that's about the same size as the medallion (punch head, socket, etc..), positioning the medallion on it, place the washer on it, and using a punch and a hammer peening it. Is that all there is to it? I'm hoping the metal is soft enough to peen easily.

Thanks for indulging me.

 

[CH4]

Thanks for asking this question. I’ll pop the corn.

 

[daveboy]

Thanks for asking this question. I’ll pop the corn.

Okay, I'm confused. Is this a taboo subject, or something?

 

[SWFan27]

I thought Altamont was the only company who had access to S&W medallions?

 

[Vtgw938]

First off I haven't done it but have thought about it. I have a lead babbitt which I have shaped the end to fit the medallion, impression and all. I assume it would be a "simple" matter of placing the medallion on the babbit (no contact with wood) and peening the end of the medallion post. The only issue would be having medallions that have a long enough post. Unless you had new medallions, you would have to thin the stocks in order to have enough length to peen.

Hopefully this with generate some more responses.

 

[daveboy]

I thought Altamont was the only company who had access to S&W medallions?

I got these off ebay. Seller claims they are original, from S&W. I can't confirm that. But, they look identical to the ones I removed.

 

[Vtgw938]

If your getting used ones, they likely are shortened from the removal process. There are unused medallions on ebay like the pic I posted but they are pricey.

You can epoxy the used ones in along with the "washers" and than clip off the head of the proper size wire nail and glue that in and it will look just like a peened over post. You can even do a little hammer work on the head.

 

[Bullet Bob]

I recently bought a pair of older grips that had medallions, but no washers. I bought some washers from eBay, but couldn't easily get them on, and didn't want to mess up the grips. I may just put some super glue around the medallion posts, and call it a day. That way in ten years somebody can post on here about the bubba who messed up some grips.

 

[2152hq]

Assuming a 'new' medalion with the post un-cut and it has the blind hole in the end.

To back up the face of the medalion, use a piece of steel or brass rod the dia of the face or just slightly less than that.
Cover the face of this rod with a piece of thin leather. the thinner the better. It's just to protect the details on the face of the medalion when you rivit the post .
Too much leather thickness and you create a soft, spongy surface and then you have to pound harder than necessary to rivit the post on the back.

The post should have a shallow blind hole in it's center. That's for the quick and simple riviting process.

You use a hammer but not directly on that post.
You place a steel 'center' like a center punch or even an old lathe center into that hole. Tap the center with the hammer and it will mushroom out that post evenly all around and down onto the washer.
The face of the medalion is placed down onto the leather faced rod during this rivit process.

It can be a 2 person thing if you can't juggle the grip, hammer and center punch at one time. But with some practice it becomes easy to do as the force to actually do the riviting and the fact that only one wack is generally needed makes the whole thing quite easy.


I've been told by others that they do the process in a bench vise. The grip with medallion & washer in place betw the open jaws.

A short backer for the medallion as above and a short pointed 'center' set in place against the end of the post.
Closing the vise jaws carefully and watching the post mushroom/rivit as the center is pushed into the end of the post does the job.

I've never done them this way, . It must work OK,,but lots of stuff to juggle & hold in place while closing the vise up!

You could probably do the operation on a simple single stage reloading press as well with a couple simple home-made tools like the backer and a center to fit in the press.
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Re-setting used medallions where the posts have been ground off when removing them,,I just clean up the ends of the posts and then epoxy the medallions and washers back into place. Once set-up, you can usually add a few rivit strikes to the end of the post for a more orig look if that's needed.

 

[Bald1]

I’ve seen people epoxy them or even glue them with success.

 

[daveboy]

Thanks for all the info.

 

[dfariswheel]

If you can't rivet for some reason, I recommend using Loctite Black Max.
This is a form of super glue in a rubbery binder.

This glues the part in place, but the rubbery binder prevents vibration from loosening it.

Another method of riveting is to cut a round piece of rubber like bicycle inner tube and put that on a bench block to support the medallion and prevent damaging it.

LOCTITE BLACK MAX ADHESIVE

Other methods are a good grade of epoxy glue properly mixed. Roughen the back of the medallion and the hole in the grips to improve adhesion.

 

[glowe]

I assume that if you are removing the medallions from old worn stocks, you are tossing them? Why not just split the stocks, remove the medallions. Then either peen the end of the stud, or file the end back into original diameter and install. No loss of length and should be easy to install. I have done this work with epoxy as well and never lost a medallion yet.

 

[Greymann]

Call Don Furr.
Don has grips, medallions and can repair any type of stocks including mop, hard rubber, ivory and wood.
40 years experience.

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