How to mount my gun safe?

S&W357

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I have a Cannon gun safe that i want to mount. The safe is 6 ft. high and 32 wide. We have hard wood floors and i don't want to put holes in the floor. That just leaves the walls.
 
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What's the wall made of? Lag bolts? If the reverse side of the wall is hidden, like in a closet, a steel plate with multiple bolts through the back or side of the safe would work. I hear from safe dealers, police and insurance adjusters that increasing the time required access your goods will decrease your probability of being robbed. Your safe sounds like its pretty heavy and large. That alone is some deterrent. I recently installed a medium size safe in my front bedroom- office. It fits perfect in the end of a double wide closet. I cut the rug and pad and bolted it directly to the slab. After I pull an Elvis and depart the arena, my son -son in law are going to say how did he get this thing in here! It does fits pretty tight!
 
The walls are 2x4 - All i can do is lag them in to 2x4. Drill 8 hole to the back of safe with 3 in. lag bolts.
 
The walls are 2x4 - All i can do is lag them in to 2x4. Drill 8 hole to the back of safe with 3 in. lag bolts.

That will work. Does the safe have holes in the back already? Some safe have material between the steel and could be a problem drilling. You could just filler up:D and the added weight will help. Or you could add a alarm system to the house. you can get a wireless PiSector S02 Wireless Home Security Alarm System from Amazon for less then $200.00 to increase your security it has a decent review. Plus if you tell your insurance co it's a monitored system you may get a insurance discount.
 
I would think lagging the safe into 2X4s is some improvement, but sure not as good as bolting into a concrete floor or wall.
Wish I had an idea to help you, but I don't.
I have a basement.
Mine are anchor bolted into the floor.
 
I have the exact same issue, wheich is why I haven't bought a safe yet. I've got an enclosed side porch with a concrete floor, but it's high traffic being our main door to the outside. We also rent, although my landlord is also a friend and doesn't mind me having a safe, but probably doesn't want a bunch of drilling. Do these things HAVE to be bolted because of stability issues?
 
Drilling a hole in the back of the safe will diminish the fire resistance.

The only thing that I can think of is to weld a steel bracket that lets you bolt that to the bottom and then bolt the back of the bracket to a wall. Even this does not prevent someone from rocking the safe from the top and ripping the bolts from the wall.
 
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Most smash and grab home invaders won't spend too much time messing with a safe, especially if you have a monitored home alarm system (which is highly recommended.) If a professional burglar is targeting you, then they can usually break into just about any safe, given the time. That is the best defense...reduce the time they have available to work. The best defense is, again, a monitored home alarm system. Unless you live in a very isolated area, make friends with your neighbors, and your neighborhood watch (if you have one), so that they know if there are vehicles at your home (especially if you are away) that don't belong there.

There have been cases of burglars chaining up a safe and ripping it out of its mountings, and dragging it through the house, to load it up and haul it away. That is unusual, and probably won't happen unless they know you have something worth all that effort, and unless they have the time to do so.

You can also try to disguise your safe...build what looks like a cabinet or something around it. Most professional thieves aren't likely to be fooled by that, though...although it might help deter the junkie who's just looking for something quick to steal...but he's unlikely to take the time or have the ability to defeat your safe.

Anchor it as best you can, and take as many precautions as you can. Get firearms insurance. That's about the best you can do. Good luck!
 
About how much does the safe weigh?

Drilling the back of the safe isnt worth ur time. Either bolt it to the floor or just leave it be.

From my many years experience dealing with these things. I've never seen someone walk off with one. Actually never seen an intruder even close to prepared to face one. Most of the time they beat the lock off the front of it (like thats going to do anything). And sometimes they even beat the spindle off the front of it (like that does any good either). Now at this point theyve only made their job harder than it was to start with......They usually just leave when the safe doesnt magically open. But on occasion u get a few who like to beat the door with a big hammer. HaHa i swear i laugh at these idiots who think the door will just fall right off for them.

Unless the intruder drives through ur house with a fork lift. I believe ur safe will be alright if its big enough.
 
I picked up a Costco safe, for my handguns, and bolted it to the wall. . The top rear of the safe has two holes 16" o/c and comes with two honk'n big lag bolts. . Sucked them in tight to wall and Bob's your Uncle.

Rod
 
I would drill the floor and lag it to the joists, two would work. Even say 1/4" that are long so the bite deep in to the joist, add big washers inside the safe to stop pull through.

If you move or get rid of the safe, just drill the holes open and pound in a dowel with some glue on it. A little careful sanding and perhaps a bid of furniture polish they will disappear, or look like a knot.

I would also put something plastic between the floor and safe. The moisture in the wood might cause rusting to leach in to the floor. This cannot be repaired and will be a permanent stain.
 
I have the exact same issue, wheich is why I haven't bought a safe yet. I've got an enclosed side porch with a concrete floor, but it's high traffic being our main door to the outside. We also rent, although my landlord is also a friend and doesn't mind me having a safe, but probably doesn't want a bunch of drilling. Do these things HAVE to be bolted because of stability issues?

No they are stable if set level on the floor, bolting is a security measure. In the store they don't like them opened because they are on a pallet and you know insurance regulations if it should happen to get knocked off.
 
How much work you willing to do ? You could build a base out of 2 x 4's. Make the base just a little deeper/wider than the safe. The two end 2 x 4's make them 4 " longer so they protrude to the back towards the existing wall. Cut the sheetrock to expose the wall studs in the closet. Slide the base into place. The goal is to screw the long sides of the base to the wall studs. Repair the sheetrock and put the safe onto the base. Screw safe to base that way you won't damage the hardwood. Sounds like a lot of work but if you are any kind of DIYer you'd knock it out in a weekend.
 
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