How's the Recoil on a 696?

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Hello.

I am trying to decide on a S&W in .44 Special. I am looking to get either a 696 or a Model 24. I know that the N-frame would probably be able to handle the recoil better but I am looking for info on the 696's recoil. Is it tolerable? It would seem like it might be a bit much considering that it is an L-frame. I am sure that the frame could take the recoil; I am not sure that my hand could. Basically, I am looking to be able to shoot all day and not have to worry about it.
 
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With 7.5 grs Unique and a 250 Keith A pretty much max load in my book the gun (frame) is good to go the hand as well with good grips that fit your hand. The part I worried about was the forcing cone. Sold mine because of this ,bought better grips for my 629-4 more bullets ,powder and primers. Beware of the man with only one gun. He probably knows how to use it.
 
With 7.5 grs Unique and a 250 Keith A pretty much max load in my book the gun (frame) is good to go the hand as well with good grips that fit your hand. The part I worried about was the forcing cone. Sold mine because of this ,bought better grips for my 629-4 more bullets ,powder and primers. Beware of the man with only one gun. He probably knows how to use it.

Mine is pleasant to shoot with 240 grain cast bullets as long as I don't load them in excess of 900 fps.

After than, it begins to remind me of something a little nasty.
 
I shoot same loads in both 696 and 3" Mel 24 and find both pleasant. The forward weight of the 696 helps. I wouldn't hesitate to use any ammo reasonable for this type revolver. If you want magnums, get a 29.
 
if you find a 696 don't let the forcing cone bother you--it's a subject that's been covered here and elsewhere and is a non-issue. it'll handle exactly what it should handle (i.e., NOT magnum-level loads)
 
Hi,

recoil is merely a question of what you put into the chambers. My wife's 696 can be sweeter than a .38 Special +P or kick like a mid-range .357 Magnum. I handload 4.5 grs of Trail Boss behind a 200 grs copper plated Flatpoint for a mild target load and you can shoot it all day long. For other purposes there is a 7.5 grs VV N340 behind a 220 grs. Speer Silhouette Flatpoint, and it gives you more recoil than you want for more than 20 rounds. We tried Winchester Cowboy ammo (240 grs lead Flatpoint), they lie right between my handloads in recoil, but the PMC 240 grs lead SWC is quite stout. I guess with a full size target stock, recoil would be somewhat milder, but my wife has small hands and the Arends Retro Banana is the perfect choice for her.

regards
Ulrich
 
As has been said, as long as you don't try to 'magnumize' it, most shooters would not find the recoil objectionable.

A 240 grain cast load going 850-900fps is nothing slouchy or to be ignored. I don't want to get in front of one. I shoot mine with such with smooth "magna" grips on the gun. I find it extremely accurate and not hard on the hands at all and I'm not a big guy.

And as has been said, if you need/want more - get a 29.
 
As has been said, with .44 Special loads - or even the milder .44 Russian loads - my 696 is a delight to shoot. My favorite all-day-shooter load is a 240gr LSWC over 3.5 gr Titegroup in a Starline .44 Russian case - makes a whopping 692 fps - which would be major power factor! Mine sports wood - but the UM's combats that came on my new 696-1 were fine - I just like wood!

Now, with Georgia Arms or Blazer 200gr Gold Dots, which are downright 'brisk' from my 296, the 696 has barely a bump. Neat revolver... but - a 4" 629 - like my current production 629-6 below - is even neater!

IMG_3509.jpg


The 4" 629 weighs <6 oz more, but has a larger hammer & trigger, additional inch of barrel, another chamber in the cylinder, and a real forcing cone - it's made for .44 Magnums! Of course, it doesn't know it's a .44 Magnum - it will also fire .44 Specials and Russians. Just please clean the cylinders before loading real Magnums. My 4" 629 will be here long after the 696 gets sold - and a new 4" 629 is likely less than a good used 696 - go figure!

Stainz
 
The 4" 629 weighs <6 oz more, but has a larger hammer & trigger, additional inch of barrel, another chamber in the cylinder, and a real forcing cone

i'd just like to point out that those reasons are exactly why a person might prefer a 696 for daily carry--the 696 is shorter, narrower, lighter and it has a grip frame that can take more compact grips. (but then again, i find any revolver too bulky for IWB)

since the OP is just interested in a range gun, then yeah, a 629 would be the way to go.
 
Just dropping in with a confirming opinion that I do not find 696 recoil bothersome. I definitely felt the sting on a 296 until I added a steel cylinder for weight and dropped down to lower-powered loads. But my 696 is a pleasure to shoot with commercially available ammo.

I know the limits of a 696 and would never try to hot-rod it. If I want a compact and more powerful .44, I'd go to a short barrel 24 or 29 -- a Lew Horton model, for example.
 
Very tolerable - there is not that much difference in weight between the L and N frames. I feel my 696 is more comfortableto shoot than my 624 - it's probably a function of the grip.
 
I never had a problem with recoil from my 696, whether it was a 240 grain cast bullet powered by 6.5 grains of Unique or 7.5 grains of Power Pistol or a 200 grain bullet over 7.5 grains of Unique. I think the Uncle Mike's grips had something to do with it.
 
S&W 696

Is a fine handgun used within the intent of the design. I shoot 240SWC over a moderate charge of 231 or Unique. For a three inch barrel it is fun and accurate. I swapped out to a Hoque (sp?) grip because the rubber grip that came from the factory was too long a reach for my small hand.
Recoil with either grip was less than my S&W 60 in 38SPL

From the top; 696, 686 and 60.
 
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